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.RM.

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Everything posted by .RM.

  1. The only bad problem with that is to get a fully functional hub you would have to get a complete spool assy.. Good Luck & Tight Lines!
  2. If your Ci4+ is less than a season old.. I would use it for a complete season to let it brake in, then do a pro style brake down and service the reel... Good Luck & Tight Lines!
  3. From my experiance... That is a standard centrifical brake hub. It looks to me like the pins have been removed. The inner ring can come lose and cause the pins to come out also... Tight Lines!
  4. For Me... I use a 6'6" to 6'9" med or medhvy depending on what my target is wood, grass, etc.... Tight Lines!
  5. Heck Ya.... all of the above!
  6. X2... Can't believe that anglers are still using the free spool spin to judge a reels casting abilities. Tight Lines!
  7. IMPO, I would just use the reel and break it in first.... But if you have to tinker, then only the spool support bearings. If you have never been inside a reel then don't open it, again brake it in (1 season) then have a pro brake it down and re-lube the reel properly... Good Luck & Tight Lines!
  8. Varoom, varoom, varoom....
  9. IMPO ...It is a gear grease Shimano white/fiber drag pads and Carbontex get Shimano drag grease, Daiwa stock and carbontex drags get a single drop of light oil rubbed on. Garcia stock drags and carbontex I run dry, but can also be run with a single drop of oil rubbed on. Cals is to much like reel butter and imo to sticky & thick, makes a great gear grease though.. Been doing it this way a long time with no complaints...... Tight Lines All!
  10. Agree 100% here, I would get a hold of the Shimano Star Drag Grease. Cals is great on gears but I wouldn't use it on drag pads... Tight Lines!
  11. Just serviced a half dozen, 150 Ci4+'s .. Solid reels, first season serviced up, and are smooth as silk with everything still stock... Clients intend to use them at Lake Fork in Feb. Tight Lines!
  12. mnbassman23 is right on PF = Pure Fishing. Right it is a super small hard plastic ring that spaces the shim... The biggest proplem I have with ABU/PF schematics is no descriptions for the parts just big d**n numbers. Every part in that assembly has a part number instead of being a total single assembly. Oh well some day PF might get it right, ABU couldn't. Good Luck & Tight Lines!
  13. My wife uses spinning for everything, and is a very effecient multi spieces angler. Who BTW takes affence at being called a "Fisherwomen????", my wife and her female angleing friends prefer "Female Anglers".. Tight Lines All!
  14. Spool/shaft, brake race, actually not very much. The complete brake down is the only way to make sure the reel is brakeing in properly (inspection of the parts), and making sure it is good and clean of all old oils and grease before relubricating. One thing to always remember is you should have the reel schematic infront of you whenever you open the reel for service.. Good Luck!
  15. Now that makes sence. They are sweat reels. Just got done servicing 6 Chronarch 150 Ci4+'s Tight Lines!
  16. Jon G, I took a look at your photo. You are missing the click plate #1125769 The black plate with the single nib on the back and cup that holds the spool shaft shim and backer, that is sitting next to your cast control cap (CCC) in the pic, sits in the cap. We add a little grease to hold it into place, make sure the little nib goes into the hole in the CCC . Next you should locate your click plate or order one from PF, now it is installed with the dimple up, and sits on that black peice. The black piece with the 2 large nibs, it is mounted onto the top of the bearing pack and the black nibs, sit into the 2 indents in the frame that holds the bearing pack. The 2 things you need to make sure you have is the metal click plate, and the rubber backer behind the shim. Also don't let anyone tell you that the parts are not important and don't need to be there. If that was true then ABU wouldn't have put them in the reel...MPO!! Oh BTW your schematic is located on the ABU website, don't open any reel without the schematic! http://www.abugarcia.com/support/reel-schematics?field_schem_numb_value=stx Good Luck & Tight Lines!
  17. X2 your not alone in that belief...
  18. I don't argue, I stand by my replies... http://www.tsi301.com/comparison.htm Tight Lines All
  19. I didn't compare it, that isn't my disinformation.. That comparison came from their website.. Tight Lines!
  20. I agree, but curiosity got me and I have to ask. Is the side plate lose w/proper tension (no laterial play) on the cast control cap? Warranty the sucker, take/send it back! Good Luck & Tight Lines On The Big O!
  21. The 301 is also unfriendly to plastics.. My question is why use a penatrator type lubrication 321 that is compaired to WD-40? I'm with Mike there is NO magic lube, any quality oil properly applied to clean parts has worked for us for over 29 yrs now.. Tight Lines All!
  22. Exactly! But as I put pressure on the head and turn, I only turn until the head snaps lose then finish with the proper size driver... Good Luck ..
  23. Thanks...29yrs in service... FBDavis, Good Luck & Tight Lines!

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