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.RM.

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Everything posted by .RM.

  1. That's right just put it up (quit) and in the next decade try it again.......... :
  2. I have seen rods that were used with lure weights that the rod was not rated for. Right at the tip section taper, they would pop. When a rod is over loaded it puts undo stress in the tips taper and the rod will fail (usually on the back swing). Sooner if the tip section has any kind of nick or scratch that will allow the fibers to seperate. When ever purchasing any lures, always try to take the rods lure rating into consideration.... Or purchase a new system for the larger baits you intend on using. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  3. It would depend on how the rod was built with the full (non exposed) seat on it.Split Seats, Exposed Seats, etc. Any time the anglers hands can make contact with the rod blank it helps with bite detection (sensitivity). Tight Lines!!!!
  4. They do offer there blanks to the custom rod builders. The whole split grip design isn't about looking cool it is for better senceitvity. If your rod feels to tip heavy you just need to balance your rod by putting some weight in the back of the blank. I guarantee you the same rod with split grip and non split grip in your hands you cant tell the difference in sensitivity don't fool your self buddy :-X : Well I own both split grip and full grip rods and there is a difference its not a huge difference. So don't fool yourself buddy. So do I and rod builders have clamied it makes no difference they use split grip to save on cork cost, and because customers fell it's m0ore comfortable. In fact a full grip balances the rod better which a balanced rod will feel more sensitive Bud, The price of cork is peanuts. The are not saving that much maybe few dollars depends on the quality of the cork. The st. croix legend is any where from 220 to 270 so you think they made it a spit grip to save money on cork you are nuts. A company like st. croix or lommis get the cork for pennies. Think what you want. I said rod builders, ex reel mech, for top of the line cork after 10 rods you can save some money may not be a lot, but still money saved and st.croix wen't with a split grip because "everyone else is doing it" it's a fad Let me tell you and your friend dantatro49 about cork. It is getting hard to find. The best of cork these days is going into wine bottles and flooring. Big rod companies aren't trying to save on cork cost or supplies, but on the overall weight and balance of the rod. I don't use cork, I use a burl that is man made and produced here in the US. It is more dense than cork and helps me with the ability to balance the rods I make a lot easier. Just my .02¢ from my rod bench.. Tight Lines!!!!
  5. The big problem here is the definition of split grip as apposed to split seat. The split grip is a small 3 to 4" grip behind the seat (whether exposed trigger, a full trigger, or split skeleton seat) with a 2" fighting butt. On most rods there will be about 4" to 6" of bare blank in between the rear grip and the fighting grip (butt). The true split grip no foregrip is a weight reduction only way of building. For those of you that think it is a fad I have been spliting grips since the early 90's. It might be a fad for the big companies, but custom builders have been into it for some years now. As far as the amateur definition of split grip most anglers are talking about the split reel seats that have popped up this season. Like the one Raul posted. Any time the rod and reel allow the anglers fingers to come in contact with the blank adds more sensitivity to the system. Just my .02¢ from my rod bench... Tight Lines!!!!
  6. Actually they were probably slow movers (at the MSRP) and that's why they are on sale.... Thanks RW.... Tight Lines All!!
  7. How many...?I have been baitcasting for 30 years now and still get overruns if I don't pay attention to what I am doing... Maybe the combo balance isn't right. The rod has lure and line ratings maybe you aren't in balance with that. Maybe you should do a little reading.... Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101 and a lot more practicing.... One last maybe...Maybe you should try being your own kind of angler and not the one's you see on TV... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  8. Ha Ha... ;D I haven't had one like that in a few years. But seeing that one I wouldn't have even tried to pick it out, just remove the spool and start cutting.... Tight Lines!!!!
  9. Wrong...The grommet is actually a Ceramic Zirconia ring and is one piece just like the shock ring in a guide. The Line Guide Carrier body is molded around it. If you see a split in it send/take the reel back. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  10. The reels are close..... No Assist Stopper, Drag Pads are a different composite, if I remember right 2 of the bearings in the reels were actually bushings. No easy brake access. The B series is a better reel IMPO.. I'm skeptical about that listing on $%#@%% there wouldn't be a 100a schematic in a 200A box, the 100A is the smaller of the 2 reels...9.2oz - 8.9oz I think that red color was produced for a BPS line...
  11. alabamabassmaster, It's NOT the reel, thats a great casting reel.....I would be looking at the average weight of the CB i'm throwing and adjust to that... Most 7' MF Graphite rods I know of are rated up to 3/4 oz. You might be using a rod that is not loading the way it should. What kind of rod is your partner using? My personal CB rods "ProE Glass" that I used were rated 3/8 - 1 oz. and a 7' Medium Heavy Moderate tip, the other is a 6'6" Medium Heavy Moderate tip rated at 3/8 - 1 oz. Don't do much crankin anymore.. Just my .02¢ from the bench.. Tight Lines!!!!
  12. siiilent, You might try reading this little piece... Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101 Plus keep practicing! Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  13. HAWG Fisher, Nice little chat we had the other day. Kudos's on the win. Is that the little corner I told you about with the white buzzbait? Sounds like you were doing all the right stuff for that style of baits (lots of bulk). I can tell you that in the 4 seasons I was on that body I tried all kinds of surface baits and the easiest to hook up on was the one with the wide open bare hook (the buzzbait) and no trailer either. Were I was getting most of the blowups on surface baits was to shallow to let the fish have it long enough (feeling the pressure before hook up). So I stuck to different styles of buzzing and tuning of my baits. Did the lake get a lot of rain Sat morning? I am 20min away form it and we got 1 3/4" Congrats.... PS: Now it's time to head for Marion State and see if you can find the State Record spot I know it's there.... Tight Lines!!!!
  14. ghoti, The race and the brake blocks aren't the culprit, the reels have always and will always have that high rpm whine, it is the nature of that brake block layout and the race/housing design. When you removed the brake race and cleaned it and the springs, you basically made it so it would adjust more easily when you re-assembled it onto the post and added the springs. Those springs are what give the race the ability to adjust when you turn the dial (ops forgot FYI.. the dial adjust the race in and out nothing else) they do get sticky or because the assemblers are paid by the piece they tend to get assembled poorly in a hurry, and the adjustment sticks and THAT will cause the lack of the multi adjustments. As far as adding KVD's line conditioner to the centrificale brake blocks on the end of the spool or the race, you IMPO did nothing but add a coating of whatever the formulation of that product is made from. Shouldn't even be used there... This reminds me of back yard auto mechanics "they really didn't know what they did to make the engine run, but it did run".. :-? Just my .02¢ from the bench.. Tight Lines!!!!
  15. Keith, The rod is for you, so in the end it will be your preference. But if I were setting the grips I would have to flip a coin and it would depend on the guide wrap color/s. Both look really good on that blank . Tight Wraps!
  16. BassinSoldier, In my reels (older 97 Curado's)I used the ABEC5 Stainless Steel, and I would say I got a 5% increase in casting. I used the Carbontex drag pads to replaced the stock greased pads in them and I would say it added 2 to 3 lbs to the max drags power and a butt load smoother (dry).Just my .02¢ from the bench.. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  17. Sitting here looking at the schematic for the 201D there are no bushings in it. It also has never been a SF (Super Free). For the reel to be a SF it has to have the busing or bearing behind the engagement pin in the spool shaft. The 201D doesn't have the bushing/bearing, or the proper size channel in the frame to hold the bushing/bearing.. Just my .02¢ from the bench... Tight Lines!!!!
  18. You do know the real hype comes from fish on.. They must just be sensitive enough for feeling the brush, limbs and bottom makeup, but not for catching. All of this and not one mention of fish on and how they handled a fight/load.... Tight Lines!!!!
  19. Yea set #12 will do if you think you need Ceramic's, set #34 does the trick if your only into Stainless Steel. Plus the Carbontex Pads for it.... All of them I have in my Supply Shop Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  20. .RM. replied to atrocity's topic in Tacklemaking
    All I get is an empty shopping cart with that link. You still need to have the book in front of you as you work through the ins and outs of the first rod.... http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/Rod-Building-Books/Rod-Building-Guide-Fly-Cast-Spin
  21. I have read more than one rod warranty were the MFG doesn't authorize anyone except the MFG to do any "repairs" to the rod without messing with the warranty.. Plus I don't know to many builders stocking double swaged PacBay guides, which is what is on the Carrots. They mostly stock Fuji.. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  22. I would recommend contacting Fenwick directly, they are a part of the Pure Fishing family... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  23. All BC reels have a white, gray, or black NYLON idler gear/s in them. They are located in the crank stack area that is a "fail safe". Meaning if the worm gear or the level wind gets hung up and you keep cranking the main and pinion drive gears are protected as the NYLON gears will fail (blow out the teeth) first and are cheaper to replace.... Just my .02¢ from the bench.... Tight Lines!!!

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