.RM.

Rooster, This is a little ditty posted a couple years back on the rodbuilding site I am a member of. It is by a very talented and knowledgeable builder in TX. I will quote it all.... I hope this helps explain the IM ratings and what they mean.... Tight Lines!!!!

I have an old (88) 5501 (Black) that has the clear spool arbor reducer on it. You might want to contact Pure Fishing Garcia and see if they make one for your reels. Make sure you have the number off of the reel foot, in case they ask. Good Luck...

I have a couple of anglers from this forum that I build as close to a neutral balance as possible, due to arthritis in the hands or the arms/shoulders.... So like stated before it is a lot of personal preference..... The one thing I have found is that most all of the manufacturers of rack rods, still used their standardized spacing charts for all of the components on all of their rod lines. IE: G-Loomis® has been using the same spacing charts since the old 96% graphite days... So what I have found (carrying around my small tape measure to different shops) is a rod with a 10" grip has the reel seat at a certain spot, and a rod with a split grip (with the spacing of a 10" grip, sits in the exact same position. So actually the manufacturer isn't really trying to balance anything (they don't have the time to do so), just trying to reduce the overall weight feel and looks of the rod/s. In my personal opinion they are just trying to steal the thunder from all custom builders, I have been building split grips for years and the mfg's are just catching on.... Tight Lines!!!

Greets all..... Let me clarify some things here. My article is on balancing older rods with full length rear grips and with the poly butt caps on them. I DO NOT use lead to balance any custom builds that I do. I use the reel and seat position, and the use of BURL cork (more density) to help in balancing a rod. My rods don't weigh anymore than 3.5 to 4.5oz finished, you cannot add lead to the rod and achieve this weight. I can also add that the majority of the builds I have done in the last 15+ years have had tip heavy request on them. Ask the tournament anglers that request that balance and it helps with accuracy.. To try and answer the original question "what is the point of rod handle designs like this".. It is less weight in the finished build. If you were to measure the distance from the end of the butt on both rods you would find that the reel seat is located in the same position on both rods. So this takes balance out of the equation, and becomes a weight savings move. You could still balance the rods more to the back of the rod buy adding the balance kit or using a heavier reel. All of this is personal preference in what the anglers feel from the rod/reel combo when held. Hope this helps some.. Tight Lines All!!!

Nobody said nuthin 'bout doing it only once a year :-?. The ammount of services your reel needs depends on how much you use it, the more you use it the more it 's going to need grease and oil. Reel mech said: once a season , how many seasons does a year have ? : Good God Ya All! Here we go again taking what I say out of context. When I say ONCE A SEASON, (and you all know what I mean) I mean once a fishing season. NOT the 4 seasons in the year. : No reel, I don't care how much you use it, will need a complete service 4 times a year/season. ;D If anyone has reel problems or questions that need worked out PM me or e-mail me direct. I'm Out of here......

If Shimano® wanted Hot Sauce used in their reels they would have put it in the reels box. You really shouldn't add any grease or oil to the reel unless you are cleaning the old oil and grease out first. If you haven't ever done it (complete break downs) then I would recommend that you have the reels done once a season by a qualified shop.

PM sent.......

Yup sure looks like the shaft is bent.

Rick K, Shimano drag grease isn't a gear grease like the Reel Butter you have, it is a Teflon based grease made just for their drag pads.

Rick K, The fiber drag pads in the reel are greased with Shimano Drag Grease.

Just adding my piddly 2¢. If the bail spring/mechanism was actually bad, broken, or even KAPUT, the bail wouldn't stay open at all, and would just flop around.

RoseAngler, Your doing it wrong.... Don't be so quick to blame the line, your M/F medium power fast tip action rod isn't heavy enough to drive the hook home thru heavy plastics like a lizard. Most good plastics rods are in the MH/F or H/F as Sam stated... Just adding my piddly 2¢

It 's the spool bearings you want to upgrade, the other ones have nothing to do with casting. Raul I am talking about the little bearing on the spool shaft itself. I know the spool end bearings would need replacing I just don't know about that one. In fact I am not even sure what its little job is anyway. If it has to be replaced, I'd have to invent a pin remover or have Bob at the Outlet take the pins out for me if I could catch him in a good mood. I have the bearings needed in stock Drag & Bearing Upgrade Supplies with more on order. The bearing behind the engagement pin on the spool shaft was the new SF setup on the older greenies they don't have a part number or reference number on any of the schematics.. The stock ABEC3 part number is BNT0124, the spool shaft end bearings stock number is BNT0194.. The ol SF or Calcutta set's were gray nylon bushings and couldn't be replaced with bearings. I also have new bearings coming in that replace the old nylon bushings that are on the SF's and Calcutta's spool shafts I also make the pin removal tools... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

In a conventional wrap I would run . stripper = BLNAG10J #1 running = BUNAG8J all running to tip top = BLAG7J number of guides dependant on static flex test... If a simple bumper style spiral.. stripper = BLNAG10J bumper = BLAG7J set 90° right or left (dependant on reel handle) running guides (dependant on line dia)= BLAG6J or BLAG5.5J to tip top Just my .02¢ Tight Wraps!!!

ejtaylor822, I have shot pics both ways with a phone camera and my Sony digital. The best way to get up close is to add as much ambient light (room light) as possible. Most all of the cameras (except for pro style adjustable focus) need a bunch of ambient light. When I shoot my rods they are in my v-blocks and there is a white background, then 4 lights above the table with 8 more lit in the shop, the camera is on a tripod. Then if you have a macro setting on the camera you should be able to focus up close, if no macro setting turn up the lights and get as close as you can.... Stole the image and lightened it up in PSP from what I can see ..Nice Job!

Depending on length of the warranty I would suggest taking it back for exchange. It will cost about $10.00 per guide in a local shop to have them replaced and re-wrapped/finished. Just my .02¢ from my rod bench. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Im no pro angler, I am an educated ol f@rt reel service tech that's all. If you were to go back and re-read the hype for the 7.1:1 burners, you would read that the reels were produced at that speed to get an EMPTY lure or hook back to the boat quicker, so and I quote "The Angler Can Cover More Water" not to rip buzzbaits or cranks. From my experience. Run a buzzbait to fast and it will roll, same with a crankbait. We then found them to be real effective for quick turning the heads of hooked fish that were headed for cover, and, taking up slack line on a dead stick. Donnie Rakes, Sounds like a good setup...... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Can't be repaired it has to be replaced. Rod Tip Repair When the frame of the tip top was made that is when the shock ring is added. You can glue it but it won't stay when the rod tip is flexed in a fight. Just my .02¢ from the rod bench. Good Luck & Tight Lines...

Handy, Lots of great recommendations on reels. If you already have a rod then my recommendation would be, to take the rod to your local shop/s and ask permission to mount the reels that have been recommended here that they might carry on it, to see how the whole system feels in your hand. Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Raul is right and they stick there......

Uncle Leo is right that was a BC GR that was posted.... Yeah that reel (Capricorn 2500XTC) is a 5.1:1 GR reel, most all SP reels are running the middle to high 5's in GR. The Regal SP's only run a 5.3:1, the Steeze SP's only run a 4.8:1 GR.. Tight Lines!!!!

eddieinva, Your pops was right on. Rinse any gear (rod/reel) used in a salty environment each outing. Not necessary if the same gear is used in a freshwater environment. Lubing a spinning reel is a whole bunch different then a baitcasting reel. New fresh out of the box BC's, usually don't need anything for one season. But after that depending on whether the reels are transported protected or not, they will start to need servicing. You will notice a difference in the casting and some subtle changes in the way the reel/s adjust. The basic maintenance of the reel is explained in the manual in the box. If you have never opened up a BC reel to service then I would recommend you don't. Contact a qualified service tech. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

It all depend on the technique the reel is used for. IMPO this is how I use them... 7.1:1 good on all t-rigs and jigs. 6.2:1 good on all t-rigs and jigs. 5.1:1 or 5.4:1 spinner/buzz baits 4.5:1 Cranks. 3.8:1 Deep Cranks. All GR's are approximate...And all is dependant on personal preference's Tight Lines!!!

Donnie Rakes, Watch out that might be an older Accurist CX in Gold but the 400 is the stumper. It could mean that the reel has a GR (gear ratio) of only 4.1:1.. In the website line up Accurist CX are all 6.2:1. GR...... Look at the reel real close around the crank to see what the GR actually is.

In a BC reel, just the spool support bearings. Like I have stated before, with only ABEC5 in those area's anything above it i.e ABEC7's is just ego upgrades. The ABEC3's that would be scattered throughout the rest of the reel are for crank smoothness only. Only in the Round BC (Garica) reels that have engaged level winds I would also upgrade the level wind bearings... In a SP reel I wouldn't waste my money on bearing upgrades, as stated they are to help relieve the torque it takes to get the reels rotor turning for retrieve. Just my .02¢ from the bench..... Tight Lines!!!!