.RM.

Simp The high pitched whine you get when casting is coming from the spool and it's support bearings, nowhere else... Also have the manufacturer service the reel and don't you open it up this will nullify the warranty if there is one...

Loosen the drag star this takes the compression off of the drag pads and the drag spring washers. No need to Loosen the cast control cap. Make sure the reel is dry, package the reels in an old sock or anything that will absorb moisture. Here is how I pack mine.....winter reel storeage.. If you know how, do a deep clean and lube before putting the reel/s to rest for the winter. Wipe down the rod/s with a clean cloth, make sure they are dry, then I like to wipe my rods down with a silicon gun cloth. Store rods in a vertical rack or once the reel is removed hang the rods from the tip, I don't lay them down or store them horizontal at all (some of my custom rods are over 13 years old). Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Sorry we only service Shimano - Daiwa - Garcia - Quantum Contact a manufacturer service center.. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Simp, You need to clean the worm gear, and pawl that drives the (eyelet) line carriage. You need to use a good stiff brush (I use a tooth brush) to scrub that worm gear and the pawl. This should stop the hitch, if it doesn't then you need to use a good eyeglass to scope out the worm gear for damage if it is it will need to be replaced. Now if that is clear then it is time to open the reel up (only if you have the schematic) and check the two white nylon idler gears, one is under the main drive gear and the other is connected to the line carriage worm gear. You will need to check the teeth of these 2 gears to see if any one of them is damaged from when the line carriage jammed to the left. If you find damage the one that has the damage will have to be replaced to get rid of the hitch. If the one that is damaged is the gear connected to the worm gear then the whole worm gear has to be replaced. Hope this helps some, if this is to complicated for you, then I recommend you contact the makers service dept. as per your owners manual. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Mike 12345, Nope didn't say that. There are basic lubrication points that someone that has never opened up a reel can do to keep the reels running smooth. The reel box should have had that manual in it. You don't need an array of specialty tools, you need the proper size screw drivers, the nut wrench, quality oil and grease, and most importantly of all the schematic and the ability to read one... As far as parts those I listed if you go to far without some forethought and experience, you will lose. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

I own several and have built about a hundred or so. The baits you listed handle very well on that blank except for the swimbaits they might be to close to the upper end of the lure ratings for the rod (but have never tried them). Just my .02¢ as a builder.... Tight Lines!!!

Never open your reel without the schematic in front of you. The problem like many have stated was the drag spring washers were in the wrong orientation, probably like this ((.. They should be like this () as you have seen. But then you would have had that info with the schematic in front of you. Also like fishfordollars stated you need to get the gear grease down in the cuts of the gear all the way to the base of the cut, the best way to achieve this is with a short hard bristle brush (like an trimmed acid brush) forcing the grease down in.... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

wasabi_VA, When you use a good brush it places the grease down into the cut as deep as it can get. Most likely what is happening is the grease is balling up when the crank is turned and any kind of speed cranking is causing the grease to get balled up and thrown off of the gear. I know you have seen it when you first pull the side plate and look at the teeth on the main drive gear and the pinion gear (gear that drive the rotor), you have seen were the grease is balling up. I use a Lithium Gold gear grease, and Cals sometimes, but the main thing I do is force the grease well down into the teeth. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Mike 12345, Hope you have a good supply of e-clips, bearing retainer springs, and A springs for your brand of reels (for when they get away and you lose them across the room), not to mention the proper tools to do the job.. Good Luck....

Yeah I owned 11 of the Accurist AC501CX's. While mine didn't give me hardly any grief I had a lot of them on my bench that had all kinds of (AR) one way bearing, crank, and drag issues. The biggest problem we found was adding to much pressure on the one way bearing pack with the drag star adjustments and it would crack the inner sleave of the bearing pack causing the one way bearing system to fail. This doesn't mean that you would have the same issues, but there are much better reels out there for the same price points. Just my .02¢ from the bench.... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Ok, how are you applying the grease. When you have the gears out of the reel are you using a brush to apply the grease to the gear teeth? If not get yourself an acid brush or a thick bristled hobby brush and trim the bristles short and stubby, then dab the grease onto the gear teeth and force the grease down in/to the base of the teeth. Do this each time you do a complete service and the gear meshing you feel and sometimes hear should be gone. I get a lot of reels with the main issue being I can feel the gears, and hear them. Some anglers sit in a quiet room and crank their reels and hear all kinds of noise coming from the reel that they wouldn't normally hear out in the elements. It is nothing more than the sound of the reels functions and fishing reels are never absolutely quiet.... Just my .02¢ from the bench... BTW what make and model of reel is it? Good Luck & Tight Lines!!

Yeah what kind of grease and how did you apply it?

Congrats Dave....

Bass Pro, I didn't say that they built the rods... : I only stated that the blank was proprietary and that you would have to contact Lamiglas® and ask them, as Lamiglas® is the warranty shop for them they would have to know something about what the process is/was...

The site gives a phone number, instead of using the site call in the order, or just call talk with the owners and get a feel on how they are doing their business.

It is a "Proprietary Graphite" and no one knows how it is done not even TT. You would have to contact Lamiglas® and ask them, and even then I doubt they will say.

The reason you don't want to use 8# test line on that reel (there are BC reels built to use smaller line diameters) is the clearance between the spools outer edge and the spool race will let 8# diameter lines get into the outer race and bind up the spool. There are some really fine reels that are made to handle light lines, otherwise use spinning gear for your 8# test.Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Sounds like something in the drag stack hasn't been placed into position properly. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

The Rooster The rod you speak about is probably a medium heavy power with a fast tip action. I throw all my spinnerbaits from 3/16 on up on this power rating (from 6' to 7' rods), so you shouldn't have any problem with a 1/4 oz spinnerbait...You just have to get the reel setup properly. Also as RW mentioned always try to keep within and pay attention to the ratings... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

bass wrangler569, I think what ddigit was getting at was that the reel seat in that kit is 17mm inside diameter. So you would (before purchasing) measure were you want the seat to be mounted, and if it isn't 17mm (larger) at that point on the blank you will have to ream the seat to fit and if it is less than 17mm at that point then the seat is to big and some shimming will have to take place.... Hope this helps some... Good Luck & Tight Wraps!

If you want info on this reel, then contact the people that service them... Get all the info you need from the guys on this page... http://www.shakespeare-fishing.com/antiques/info.shtml

I think the tip is to slow for DS.... Most all DS rods I have built are Med to MedLight powered rods with fast to extra fast tip actions. The parabolic power rods (rods that bend well into the middle of the blank) are way to soft in the tip action (moderate or slower) for the quick hookup needed...Better suited for cranks... Just a builders .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Haven't built on a Rainshadow blank since Cascade Composites quite building the blanks for Batson, the SC3 7'MM however is one fine blank have built it in spiral casting and super light weight spinning...

It's all personal preference from years of working with a certain epoxy... I prefer Flex Coat Rod Builders 2 part. never tried anything else no need to...