.RM.

I see a lot of comments about how good the PT's are at least with the original poster. How many of you have used the 90's era Quantum®, Energy, Tour, Accurist CX's, etc., these are where Quantum® lost their backers before the PT systems. Pencil Pusher, I'll second that, probably no backer on the arbor, or fresh slick line cutting into itself...Tight Lines All!

Not bad, but were is the tool rest? I had the FlexCoat cork lathe when I first started, and had to watch the RPM's that I used in that drill setup (no stack of 14 cork or burl rings is concentric when first glued up). Since then have gone to the Grizzly Hobby Lathe for turning my grips, (Thank God For Live Centers).. Tight Wraps...

Been building rods for 15+ years exclusively on St.Croix blanks, and trained ddigit in rod building he gave some very good info there. I can say with certainty that St.Croix would void the warranty of any factory rod that has been modified from the original version. They get upset and void warranties on rod blanks that I use if I cut more than 2" off of a blank, in any custom build. Good Luck & Tight Wraps!!!

No problem, after 25 years of looking at different reels for various problems you get a sense for what goes down on these babies. None of the MFG's do a very good job of lubricating their reels for shipment to distributors. Whenever I get a new or used reel the very first thing I do is break it down and re-lube it my way.. Glad it helped. Tight Lines All!

Your right...... The problem as everyone here has stated isn't Daiwa's problem (or any MFG for that matter) it is the return policies of many of the big box stores (especially on-line). Try getting of the backside, and actually visiting a tackle shop or big box store, and placing hands on the reels you want to purchase. Just my .02¢ from the bench... Tight Lines All!

Yes sir the only reason I mentioned a quality reel oil is because I don't like Quantum' lubricants and don't consider them to be quality (more gimmick). Also if this doesn't cure the noise, then I would try using an oiled Q-tip and swipe it around the brass brake race in the palming side plate. 8-)

I personally have always used the 1/3rd rule, much like RW. He's not a buddy, kick him over board and leave his smart arse floating....Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Without having the reel in front of me and finding exactly what is causing the squeal, I would recommend these procedures... Remove the cast control cap and add one drop of quality reel oil to the shim (top pic in the blue circle), and one drop of oil to the spool support bearing there. Now while the reel is open remove the spool and add one drop of oil to the spool support bearing inside of the spool race and frame. While you have the palming side plate off and the spool removed add one drop of oil to the spool support bearing/shim in that side plate (bottom pic in the blue circles). Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Yea Andy, who's the vendor?

Think this link might help you out... I was a member of the SD Bassmasters back in 1989, they are linked up inside the council site here.. San Diego Council of Bass Clubs Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Ahhh the hassles of fishing quality gear from the bank...I hope it was a really good fish..... I would recommend that you contact Daiwa® direct and ask them about the paint job. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

RH cast, LH retrieve!

Yup I do, every chance I get. If the blank has a curve when I check the blank it is usually only a slight turn off of spine, and I will setup on the curve .... It is mostly personal preferences of the builder (old habits)..... Tight Wraps!!!!

It could have bound up on the spools arbor enough to keep it from slipping..... There are a couple of different ways to stop the line slippage. You can run a couple of layers of mono onto the spool and tie to it, you can add a strip of electricians tape to the spools arbor and then tie to it with the arbor knot.

Ha Ha RW first time I have seen my favorite tackle shop (Zeiners Bass Shop) linked here I will let Jim know. 90% of the rods found in rod racks are indeed fast to extra fast tip actions. I had posted this image in your sticky above...

Yup I have that feeling again. Your using braided line without a backer on the spool arbor aren't you... If so the line is slipping on the spool. The max drag for the code is only about 10# to begin with. One way to test it is remove the spool from the reel with the line on it, then holding both ends of the spool so it doesn't turn pull the tag end of the line and see if the whole line stack is turning on the spool... If this isn't the case then someone has removed the handle assembly and restacked the drag spring washers in the wrong orientation... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Trick Worm, Need more info...... What is the make and model of the reel? Are you using braided line on your reel?

Have serviced quite a few Zillions... The whole Zillion line runs CRBB's (Corrosion Resistant Ball Bearings) and BB's (Standard Ball Bearings) along with the RB (Roller Bearing). Nothing really special that needs to be oiled that often or even oiled with the new oil they have introduced... Tight Lines!!!!

Redsyn wrote, Muddy wrote, WHAT?

CFFF 1.5, RD 7987 - Bail Assembly =msrp $23.63 RD 7988 - Drive Gear =msrp $13.96 RD 7801 - Ball Bearing (now TGT1161)msrp= $11.73 RD 7991 - Handle Screw Cap =msrp $2.49 The reel is discontinued and they (Shimano®) will not service it. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

ptomacbass, Congrats on an early Christmas and the new reel. But i'm here to tell you that your BPS reel isn't broke, but the worm gear (that drives the line carriage) and pawl assembly are dirty and the new reel will do the same if you don't maintain it (keep it clean), all reels will do the same thing. Just something to ponder.... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Muddy, Yeah it will work, but take the reels off of the rods, believe it or not rods stored with the reels on them tend to put a twisting weight on the blank at the seat area. That's why I always store without reels (plus it keeps the reels from collecting dust and grim).... As far as storing in the PVC tubes, yup that will work also but I stand any PVC up vertically also. Tight Lines!!!

The Rooster, Yes every reel that comes to my bench gets the one way (if it has one) cleaned and re-lubed. But it isn't repacked, it is lubed with a cotton swap wetted with bearing oil. We found out that adding grease to the one way bearing (on SP and BC reels) that might be fished in colder weather could and does get to thick to allow the pins to work properly in the housing, and causes the AR to fail intermittently. When we started lubricating the oneway pack with oil instead, this issue stopped. BTW before you jump on me about this not being so, we checked with all of the manufacturers we service and they all agreed with our findings. So take this as you will, but every reel we work has had this done and I don't hear anything from the clients as to AR failures. Just my .02¢ from the bench.... Tight Lines!!!!!

Been doing this for well over 20 years now, started with bio soaps and learned early they really don't work. So I personally recommended for novice's, ..Reel Scrubber from Birchwood Casey® Don't like using soaps inside of the reels, it takes more work to get it out of the reel and get the reel dry. Plus I haven't seen any of the soaps actually break down the gear grease without the use of very hot water...As far a Naphtha (lighter fluid) for the tough stuff, that is a Cancer causing agent, very flammable, and will ruin any plastic/nylon part it comes in contact with. Good luck inside your reel/s...

The Rooster, I hang my rods from the rubber padded cup hooks you can get. That and 3.5oz to 4.5oz hanging from a standard cup hook through the tip top isn't enough weight to hurt the shock ring in it. Remember I don't hang my rod/s with the reels attached, I also don't store during the season in my shop racks, any of my rods with the reels attached... Tight Lines!!!!!