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.RM.

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Everything posted by .RM.

  1. Boy someone has been digging in the bottom of the junk barrel.... That's the biggest piece of junk that company ever came out with. Thank god they discontinued that reel back in the late 90's, and thank god that company went back to building what they thought they new best "Power Tools".. Just my .02¢ of bench experience.. Tight Lines!!!!
  2. Seems pretty limiting to not consider all the 7' rods... I agree, IMPO any good 7' - 7'6" medhvy stick with a fast or extra fast tip, and good balance will do the trick.. Just my .02¢ Tight Lines!!!!
  3. If I were ordering Sic (Silicon Carbide w/SS frames) guides, I would be ordering the #10 NSG and then the #7 YSG's out to the tip. This all would be a lot easier with an order of good old Alconite Concept guides a #10 BLNAG10J, and #7 BYAG7J's out to the tip.. Also easier and cheaper would be Hardloy Concepts, a #10 BNLG, and #7 BLVLG's out to the tip. Just my thinking...... Tight Wraps....
  4. soccplayer07, No matter what rod brand you purchase in your price point, make sure the reel fits the system and the balance feels good in your hand...... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  5. Because your intending to wrap this blank conventional... If I were building it, I would be setting a DF#10 for the stripper, then taller SF#6's on out to the tip. Finding the taller SF guides will be the trick here, you need to keep the line up off of the blank when the rod is fighting loaded or static tested. Good Luck & Tight Wraps!!!!
  6. That's Jeremy Sweet alright. But just because TT says it doesn't make it so, that could be an older photo of him out with the Prototype of the core or any reel for that matter.... : This translates to nothing more than rumor, that's all. 8-)
  7. They are split grip rods with a skeleton reel seat been around for awhile....
  8. You will need to re-move and re-wrap the guide back on. Anything other than that and there is a 90% chance that it will leak water under the finish and the wrap threads will rot and fall apart. You need to properly repair the guide don't just mickey mouse it. My .02¢
  9. See for yourself....... Legend Tournament® Bass Legend Elite
  10. Any of the reels you listed are good reels and will serv you well.Because the reels you have listed carry ABEC3 stock SS bearings going to a ceramic ABEC7 will not show you that much return for your money IMPO. I wouldn't upgrade past ABEC5 in Stainless or Ceramic...And personally I wouldn't go Ceramic because of the frequency of re-lube you have to go through. Drag & Bearing Upgrades Hopefully you will have the reel and the rod will be built to the reel, don't just have a rod built and place a reel on it.Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  11. flechero, Nope I didn't think it would be that either, cause he ain't got no tip on the rod he's got eyelids... FYI It's not eyelet either, they are called line guides for ......
  12. JMP10H Product Link Review intimadator, Set the mags to 0 (zero), then set the lure fall rate (cast Control) then reset your mags accordingly with test cast. Basically the same way you should set the centrificale. Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101 Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  13. .RM. replied to flechero's topic in Tacklemaking
    I was doing Royal 0245 and Cobalt 0050 w/o CP, on gloss black blanks for awhile. I like it.. Great color combo for stelth...
  14. Hard to say how the Shimano rods or the E21's are built, (unless it is a collapsible blank, i e flipping sticks down into the handle, or an extension has been added) most all split grips are built on a one piece blank. Could be what your eyes are seeing is the blanks taper..... Tight Lines!!!!
  15. .RM. replied to flechero's topic in Tacklemaking
    Keith, Had to steal the image and place it in my PSP to lighten it up some for my eyes. Is the blank deep blue and the wrap black w/o CP? Great job!!!!! Tight Wraps!!!!! dsaavedra. That's the good part about custom builds (especially when you can take measurements in person) that grip is built to his hand, not for the b ling effect that most anglers seem to purchase more for, than functionality. The fact that the guide wraps are pristine, is the b ling factor... Tight Lines!!!!
  16. Yeah I hear ya. Prototyping and field testing was always the fun part of building for me. Now it's wrapping (cause I can't stand for very long anymore)... Tight Lines!!!!
  17. flechero, When I was still building on the loomis blanks, this is what I was using these lengths and powers for. 783's - up close medium jigs and worms. 843's - deep water C-rigs, heavy cover T-rigs, and Jigs. You mention travel rods are these going to be one piece systems? Tight Wraps & Tight Lines!!!!
  18. Don't take any chances on it, take it back and when you get the replacement in your hand inspect it before you leave the store... But then again that should be a no brainer for anyone buying a new rod OR reel. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  19. If it were mine, and thank goodness it isn't..... : I would probably use it for t-rigs and jigs in light cover... Good luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  20. As a rod builder, impo because the Avid blank is a little thicker walled blank (stiffer), and the LE is a lot thinner I would go with the M instead of the ML that you had in the Avid blank. This is derived from feeling both blanks without any guides mounted...If you could feel both rods finished in a store rack it would really help in your final decision.. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  21. The Zebco family is: Quantum Rhino Martin Cajun Line Fin-Nor Van Staal and they are all part of the W.C. Bradley Co. portfolio... And no Quantum will never fade away..... Just my .02¢ Tight Lines!!!!
  22. Yeah I like my old Quantum Competitions QG3501, they were the prototype to the EX series in the middle 90's, 5.1:1.. I have 5 of them.... Tight Lines!!!!
  23. 3 quality bearing packs for BC reels, is all that's needed for good free spooling. For spinning reels it is a different story because of the torque that the crank has to get past to turn the rotor, plus the line roller, and crank paddle, so you would probably see 6 quality bearings minimum. One crank bearing on each side of the body (=2), one rotor pinion bearing, one line roller bearing, one oscillation gear bearing (depending on mfg), 1-2 crank paddle bearing (again depending on mfg), plus 1 one way (AR) bearing. So here i've listed a possible 7+1... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  24. Really? A book? I would have never guessed there would be enough info on this to fill a book. It would just seem the answer lies in whatever you are comfortable with. You either crank right or left, done deal. I do the "switch" with baitcasters (throw right crank right) but I crank left with spinning. It's just what has always felt "right" to me. Yup here is the link to his bio...Rich Forhan Bio and the link to the Book Review Excerpts .. Tight Lines!!!!
  25. Burley, That's one of the best fix's for Quantum I have ever seen...... Tight Lines!!!!!

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