.RM.

In towards the spool shaft is off.. out towards the ends of the pin is on. Here is a little reading for you....Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101

All of Garcia's round reels are proven work horses. As far as reels you should stay away from, that would be personal preference on the combo your fishing cats with. My cat setups are 1 red 1980 5501C, and, 1 black 1985 5501C, all setup on 8' Quantum big cat rods... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

If it's new in the box, maybe it's in the manual...That seller does like to write large font smack. But I have to disagree with this him, it isn't the finest reel Garcia® has ever put out. Revo is for Garcia® LP reels the finest now. Just my .02¢

Try a big hammer...... When I get any kind of Pinnacle reels come into my shop and the owner ask's how to take care of the reel. I always hand them my 5lb hammer I have sitting behind my counters, and tell them to take one swipe at it. Truly pieces of junk all of them........ Just my .02¢

JCrzy4Bass, Yup very busy with reels and custom rods.... The reference number in the schematic is RD8738, sits right behind the big gray/black one-way bearing. The other thing that might be making the noise is the bushing (RD2293) on the right hand side of the crank these don't get oiled they get some grease. The proper way to correct the problem your having is a complete take down of the reel. BUT! DO NOT try this if you have never taken a spinning reel apart, or are not familiar with all the modules in a spinning reel. Definitely over-lining the rod, I personally don't use braided lines for anything.......Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Flex Coat CP, one flood coat wipe off excess, wait 24hrs and finish. No fail for 15 years now. Tight Wraps!!!!

Question when you crank the handle and get the rotor turning and the take your hand off of the crank paddle, does the reel still make the squeaking sound? Sometimes it is something that is really obvious. Sounds like you oiled everything except the rotor pinion bearing, and the crank paddle...

ghost, Here your talking about the rods back bone...The POWER RATING (med, med-hvy, etc.) on the rod would be your personal preference. The TIP ACTION (mod, mod-fast, etc) is the important factor using braided line along with the drag setup. Just my .02¢ Fish Chris, Now your talking parabolic....Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

SV1000, Next time you go to add oil to your bearings try cleaning them out first. Putting new oil over old, only makes excess old oil...Try reading the article on super tuning, it takes quality CLEANING of the reel first, learn how to do that first then you have half the battle done. Placing $90 worth of (2) spool support bearings in a $90 reel is over kill IMPO. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Parabolic Action...... The more of a bend you will see from the tip to the butt in an even, uniform bend..........

SV1000 In Shimano® reels, if the line carriage isn't engaged (moves left to right) when in free spool, the most important bearings for long casting are the spool support bearings (Shimano builds with quality ABEC3 SS, a good upgrade is ABEC5 SS). If the line carriage is engaged (moves left to right when casting), then worm gear support bearings help (but are not that much of an improvement).A good thing to remember, "it isn't the number of bearings in a reel, but the quality of the bearings in the reel" Tight Lines!!!!

I have seen that on 4 different Cardiff's. I sent them in to the factory and they didn't fail from throwing big baits. Mostly from to much drag and retrieve torque. It's mostly because the hub isn't a molded part of the side plate it is pressed in.....

Whats Your Favorite Combo? All of them really, these are my two super favorites.... Jigs - Custom Shikäri SHX 845 w/Curado 201B T-Rigs Custom 3C70MHF w/Revo S-L Thanks, Jeff H Tight Lines All!!

WELCOME to the forum!

I agree 100%... Tubular carbon shafts covered with carrot fiber is a novelty. Wait until some rod/blank mfg decides to make a carrot colored graphite blank and offer it... Hey flechero think I might have to contact CTS.... Tight Lines!!!!

Hey RW not as hard to find as we might expect.. Cabela's E 21 Carrot Stix LTX Tight Lines!!!!

ghoti......

Don't know never used it, and don't really care. 8-) Everything I work with, is manufactured water proof and for use with lure and rod production. Hence the quote.....

The grooving of any guides with braided line is because the line after awhile picks up enough dirt and grim in it's fibers from the water that is turns the line into a rope saw/file and can and will grove guides (even Recoils) over time. I have read custom builder reports of loud noise from braided lines and recoil guides when under heavy fighting loads, but mostly from spinning guides. Tight Lines!!!!

Sorry for the late reply working a custom rod and servicing reels.... Some spinning reels make the whirring sound as Saladmander stated. It is a result of the bail system on the rotor (bail wire and bail arms) and spinning at high speed. Now for the maintenance port.... :-? Ok yes the manual says it is a special feature, and probably one of the features that helped you choose the reel. But when you remove the port screw, you don't see anything but a white or gray idler gear, this gear drives the worm gear, that drives the in & out oscillations of the spool axal. Now when you put oil in the port you are basically oiling the teeth of that idler gear. It will help for a bit (main reason they have you doing it multiple times over a season)... IMPO stay out of it, oil what you can see outside the reel (crank support bearings both sides, crank paddles, line roller, etc.), and send them off to a quality service center once a season to be properly cleaned and lubricated inside.... Just my .02¢ Tight Lines!!!!!

ghoti, Over tighten your drags, and then use braided line, and set the hook hard on a log, and see what else you'll dislike about the reel.....

Actually those drums have heavy grease on them to hold parts in the assembly processes. Also the tabs are not plastic they are a nylon and it takes a butt load of spin to were them out. But your right it doesn't take much to slow a spool down when it is properly setup... Just my .02¢

When the Burner reels 7.1:1 GR first came out they had a write up that goes something like this.. "For getting the empty lure back to the boat faster to cover more water" They were never intended to move motion/reaction baits faster. Take the buzzbait that Pond Hopper is pointing out, the faster you move it the more flipping over it does same with spinnerbaits and ripping raps or any other cranks. You have to slow the baits down until they run true, and the 7.1:1 GR isn't easy to slow down. Just my .02¢

When you started to lose casting distance did you re-adjust the cast control cap? If so you probably now have loosened it up to far. I'll bet you have lateral play in your free spool. If you check the shims behind your spool support bearings i'll bet they are dry, this will tell me also that your bearings are dry and need cleaned out and re-oiled. I would re-lube the spool support bearings and shims, then turn your brakes off and re-adjust the cast control, then re-set your brakes and that sound should stop. For those that think you need to oil the spool brakes on reels. Putting oil on the spool brakes is like pouring oil on the brakes of your vehicle, brake actions change and get a lot less efficient. Cleaning the blocks will help more.... Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

When I'm punching through garbage with the heavier 1/2oz jigs I have it setup on an old Quantum® Competition QG3501 that I have tweaked to the 7.1:1, mostly because of the heavier weight. For my lighter 3/8 up close jigs (Curado 201B 6.2:1), and 3/8 oz t-rigs I use my (Revo SL 6.2:1). These are all mounted on custom rods I built for each reel. But I truly think it is all personal preference and personal technique when it come to pitching and flipping up close and at a distance (slack line). Almost a dead stick technique. I tend to leave my jigs in one spot for a couple of minuets. I remember pitching the jig then almost smoking a full cig, then moving the jig (with rod tip only about 1") then letting it sit again, and taking up only a crank or so to take up any slack. Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!