.RM.

why not?ken whiting is an award winning rod builder.he makes good stuff.not that croix isn't good but there are other alternatives. St.Croix is celebrating 60 years designing/building rods.. Roll a graphite inner core, (in reality the core of the blank is still graphite cloth wrapped just like every one else's with the outer part being dipped), now dip the core into some colored nano fibers (The orange color which is supposed to be because the material is made out of carrots is actually added. When carrots are ground up and exposed to the air, they turn brown). Now paint it right, display it just so, then light it up for the judges and what do you get "A Carrot Stix winning best of show at ICAST... So far all I've been impressed with is their marketing scheme. From Tom Kirkman:

Berkley is real good at doing that, manufacture a great bait and then discontinue it... Back in my tourney days I use to order from this guy and all I used were 7 and 10" power worms..I checked this out and it did take a 25 ct order..... 10" Power Worm Here is his contact info.. Hope it helps Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!!

jwc68, I throw the same baits on a MHM (medium heavy mod tip) proE-series glass rod. Does a great job.Tight Lines!!!!!

Jimzee, Because it is made for their imported TG bearings which are made to a closer tolerance than stock MFG bearings. Super light viscosity oil made for use with Ceramics Mine is actually the same as Shimano', had it put into the needle nose bottles. The Daiwa® oil is the same in both bottles, one with the red oil is supposed to get you use to doing basic lubricating of the reels. The clear was the oil they use to sell to service centers... Tight Lines All!!!

To assemble a modern ferrule, mis-align the sections by 90 degrees and slide together. As they come snug, twist them into alignment with just a bit of force. This will "lock" the sections together. To disassemble, reverse the procedure.

kwchannell89, Here is some reading for you.. Rod Blank Manufacturing Ahhhh The power of Google Search Wrong....(Never assume) They are miniature winches, and not all frames are aluminum. Some are graphite, some are titanium, etc.Tight Lines!!!!

fishingdude, If you have opened the S then you know how to open the SX, they all open the same way. The thing that might be the problem is the spool could be stuck in that side plate and not allowing you to twist the side plate all the way to the release position. Some anglers get in a hurry to open the reel, and have the cast control setup tight, this places pressure on the spool shaft and keeps the spool tight into the brake race on that side plate.... Back off the cast control cap, or remove it, and then try to make the spool move laterally (sideways), once the spool can be moved then try to twist the side plate. Every time I have found the side plate stubborn this is how I got it to release.. Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!!!

I cast with the right hand and crank with the left. I also understand the old school crossover method and the time it takes, and also understand the lowering of the grip to palm the reel, taking somewhat as much time to setup. Mine however has nothing to do with either of those, it does however have a lot to do with casting, setting the hook, and fighting fish with my power hand which is my right hand. Nothing more nothing less..... Just my .02¢ Tight Lines!!!!

Actually that port opens up right over the nylon idler gear for driving the oscillation of the spool. When the reel is manufactured the last thing done is to place that cove, but before, they squirt some of their gear grease into it and then close it. There is only one gear in the body that gets oiled, and you must remove the side plate to do so properly. It is the worm gear and pawl that drives the spool oscillation, the main drive and pinion gears get greased, and again you must open the reel to do so properly. Just my .02¢ Tight Lines!!!!!

I see the write up from the website. But why do you like it so much? I would like to read a real reason for liking a $300+ ultra light reel so much... pfluemis, I agree........

Here ya go .... Strictly Bass Rods

Place them in a baggie, and send them to Outdoor World Rod & Reel Repair. Then add a note pleading insanity, and asking for mercy from them..... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!!

I was just going to say fill a deep fryer with salad oil and dip....... Muddy, Nope the only greased gears are the brass main drive and the pinion gear. All other moving (rotating) parts (i e bearings) get one drop of oil, AFTER they have been cleaned..Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

You should contact your guide as to what is needed in his hot spots. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Ohhhh L-B-H..... They are the only carriers that have lost or damaged rod tubes when I ship. Tight Lines!!!!

WOW sorry Ronnie... High-Sticking is: Holding the rod at the extreme vertical position while fighting a fish..... Imaging your holding your rod fighting a fish, then you raise the tip to the vertical position 90° to fight the fish, this puts an extreme stress point on the blank in the tips action taper, then having 3 to 4 guides wrapped in this section, will eventually cause a failure when the rod is high-sticked enough times. Another form of high sticking is when landing a fish, while holding the rod in-front of the reel seat or fore grip and raising the head of the fish to lip it. This can cause the same problems over time. Just my .02¢ Tight Lines!!!!

I had 7 of the 4601's great reels wish I still had them, but the guide I sold them to is getting all kinds of great fish on them. Tight Lines!!

mikeinma, If you know where you will be staying, ship your tube or whatever to yourself sealed, insured and signature conformation on delivery, and carry your reels in a carry on bag. Just a thought......

I don't have any of the blocks turned on, I use my thumb and a good setup on cast control for my free spooling. If your getting a slight lift of the top layers on your line stack, then just a slight turn of the cast control cap will stop that. No need to run any blocks if your thumbs educated and you have a good eye for the free spool setup. Tight Lines!!!!

If you are breaking the reel down to the set plate, make sure you have the schematic in front of you. Greasing the gears and oiling the bearings, isn't the thing I would be wondering or worrying about, it would be what do I do when I lose the bearing retainers, or strip out or lose the side plate screws.....Grease on the pinion and main drive gears only. The nylon gears don't need it. Then one drop of quality oil on the levelwind worm gear, and all bearings. That's it...

Did you check to see if anything was wrapped around the spool, any line that has a loop in it stacked on the spool. If everything else is good to go, then take the side plate off and make sure their isn't something there in the blocks that would cause the noise and binding of the free spool. If that's ok, then set all blocks to off and see if you have the same problems. Don't cast the reel (it will just backlash on you unless you have an educated thumb). Check to see if you have free spool. If you do then rest to the 2 on setting you wanted, and, then cast your reel and see if it has cleared itself. If not and you have the same problems, look in your local yellow pages for a service center near you, and walk the reel in and have a qualified tech look at the reel. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

I have been looking at the schematics for all of the revo's except for the Premier and Inshore, they are all identical inside except for the gearing and the brakeing systems. As far as bearing counts, I own a Revo S-L, has 9 bearings. I just took that reel down to a blank set plate, the actual bearing count is 9. 1 at the end of the crank shaft, 1 under cast control cap (spool shaft support), 1 palming plate (spool shaft support), 1 behind engagement pin (spool shaft support), 4 in crank paddles (2 in each), 1 one-way roller. FYI in any reel, all bearing counts over 3, the extras will be in the crank and the line carriage assemblies. Just my .02¢

Slide it toward the center of the reel, at the same time you twist either up or down on the side plate, I get confused as my Quantum's are lefties, and they operate just opposite...

Let's call the reel what it is, a Quantum Tour PT1170 Burner Slide it and twist the side plate down to open for spool shaft bearing and spool access. explained above That is the cast control cap. Loosen and tighten to adjust the free spool drop rate and spool shaft end play.... Have you ever used a low profile reel before? If you have then their shouldn't be any problem operating this reel, if you haven't then goto this article and read then practice, practice.......Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101 Yes from QuantumGood Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Ya know back in 1985 when I was training with Shimano®, I use to eat lunch with the Daiwa® techs, and when I was training with Daiwa® I was eating lunch with the Shimano® techs. Basically when the reel wars started... Doucet, Yea! IMPO.....Both companies make fine reels, as far as holding up, even a cheap no name reel will hold up if it is maintained properly...Good Luck & Tight Lines In 08!!