.RM.

With out a doubt from your list, Zillion (6.3 or 7.1) All my jig and t-rig rods are carrying 6.2:1 or higher GR reels (Shimano, Garcia, and Quantum). I want to move the fish' head as soon as hook set is made. Tight Lines!!!!

Davis, That's great! Glad the article helped... Like the quote from one of the best in fishing in my signature line says...."Accuracy Is More Important Than Distance" - Kevin VanDam Just remember practice, practice, practice..... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!!

If your using the epoxy on lures, I would make sure that it is water proof. Just my .02¢

Yeah they work as described. I use them when I do a balance job on factory rods. Just fold the two halves and cut the end off, and squeeze the contents out onto and foil sheet, or into a mixing cup and stir for about 1 min. You only have about 3 to 5 mins working time at 75°. It is a true 5 min epoxy. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

12lb to 17lb Sensation on all BC's

my mistake it is 40+yrds Good for him, Garcia will take care of it no prob's....

Mike-in-WV, 130' hummm 3' in a yard, that's only a little over 10 yrd. These guys need to go outside and cast a 1/2oz anything 10 yrd it's really not that far. You have a mechanical problem in the reel, I couldn't begin to try and say what it is without seeing the reel. I would get it replaced... Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines.....

Balancing Your Fishing Rods

Fish Fast, Welcome To The Forum! The pro's do use glass, but those that are, are probably throwing deep diving cranks on them. The rods are usually 6'6" to 7' med to medhvy with mod tip actions. The graphite rods you see in the racks will be in the 6'6" to 7' med power with mod tip actions, and used for shallow to medium diving cranks. My personal rod is a 6'6" Pro E-series glass in a MedHvy power with a mod tip action. I use it for throwing my collection of old deep diving POES cranks and 1/2oz. Norman lipless cranks... Tight Lines!!!!

It's all I have used now since it first came out...

That sounds like a result of a lose line layer laid onto the spool and the line is cutting into itself, causing an over wrap and stopping the lures flight at that point...A little more adjustment on the cast control cap should stop that, once it is recognized.. Just my .02¢

MaxDal, OK well lets see here. The reason the guides sit so high is to keep the line off of the blank when the rod is under fighting load. If you put a lower profile guide up in place of the originals, you would probably have to add a couple more to compensate for the differences in the height. This is all to keep the line from slapping the blank under fighting load.. As far as who makes what blanks, that is a good question, you might hear that someone makes the blanks for Daiwa®, but the truth be known, nobody knows for sure who makes what for whom in the factory build arena. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Really nice looking setup Ronnie To big for my bench's though. Tight Wraps!!!!!

Sounds like Shimano quit putting the basic maintenance booklet in the box's again.. Here ya go you will need Adobe to read it. Baitcasting Reels (333 Kb) PDF

Davis, Not trying to be a SA here, but the owners manual gives the basic lubrication points to the reel, try reading it... 8-)

I first saw them when they came out 6 years ago. They were a big gimmick then, and seeing them again now, makes me wonder why we haven't seen anymore words about them.

Luey, Actually the 6.2:1, 5.1:1 etc. are the gear ratio's of the reel. The 6.2:1 is faster. In other words a 6.2:1 GR is 6.2 revolutions of the spool to 1 revolution of the crank. The speed numbers your looking for is the IPC, or inches per crank this is the actual length of line the reel takes up onto the spool per crank. 6.2:1 and faster for turning the fishes head NOW when hooked in heavy cover. Slower gear ratios like 5.1:1 would be good in crankbaits. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Actually the question read like it was a question on who serviced them, so I gave my answer. .. 8-) As far as what to use to lubricate your reels, any of the quality reel oils and reel gear grease' will work in the RIGHT area's and quantity. Your right I don't like Hot Sauce, it's a bigger gimmick than those orange rods...

Oh yes you'll need it....... Pencil Pusher, has a good explanation of the mag brakes. But I wouldn't set up any reel in the snow. The metals get cold, the oils get cold, and the grease gets cold. This is slowing the reel anyway. Wait until you get weather above the freezing mark, and you will have a different acting reel. Just my .02¢

Split Grips, are all a matter of personal preference. I get more request for custom split grip rods than standard straight full grip rods anymore, and, either way none request the fore grip anymore. As far as what manufacturers are doing with split grips is nothing more than trying to keep up with the custom builders, they don't have time to use it as a balancing tool like custom builders, it's more of a "kool look" than anything else. In a custom split grip section everything done there is in respect to weight, sensitivity, and balance. Just my .02¢ Tight Lines All!!!!

HillBilly Willie, Sounds like the reel is binding. I would back off the cast control cap until the spool can move sideways. Then try to remove the side plate. Every once in awhile I see Quantum's that have bayonets you have to slide then twist the side plate, and when the CC knob is to tight you can't move the side plate.. Just My .02¢ Try it hope it helps.....

Just a thought but I would CALL Outdoor World Rod & Reel Repair (417) 873-5274 (www.basspro.com/repair), being as they are the BPS service center, and ask them for any info on that reel. Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

Yeah, remove the pawl cap, then remove the pawl. Clean the pawl, also clean as much as you can of the worm gear.Re-place the pawl, then re-place the pawl cap and add a good reel oil to the hole in the cap when it runs out that's enough. This should clear the issue of the level wind sticking to one side or the other. If it doesn't then you will need to have a small shim added to the pawl cap to take up the slack in tolerance. See your local service guys Just my .02¢ Tight Lines!!!!!

.dsaavedra., I have used an Acetone wash to remove some epoxies and paints on older blanks, it's NOT recommended for blanks today, the strongest I use today is denatured alcohol. You might have to live with it, or you will have to take the sanding pads in different grits to remove the work you have already done. You might also try heat on the plastic paint you used. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!

dsaavedra. Nope the key to removing the epoxy is HEAT. You heat the area slightly with a hair dryer (it softens the epoxy) and then using the dull edge of a razor you carefully scrap the epoxy off. Once the old epoxy has been scraped then you can use a ultra fine sanding pad to finish up the area. You never use any solvents stronger than denatured alcohol on a rod blank.vicdotcom, I didn't. I first read everything I could to actually learn the processes involved with prepping the blank then, prepping the grip, and then the guides and so on, learning the differences in actions and backbones, about spline etc.. Then I purchased a rod kit and built a rod. You don't learn that re-modifying a rod....IMPO the re-modifying of and existing factory rack rod is nothing more than keeping idle hands busy.