Deephaven

Why not thicker? When I started anything less than 17lb was a disaster so that is what I recommend. I did not and have not used the e-tape trick though so the disaster was mostly very non-professional over run...

Straight braid, nice long MHF, and confidence when you rip and it will get better. Doesn't work in scum, but in grass normally it works well. Like A-jay said I would down size a bit if the bait you have falls too fast for you to effectively rip it.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I've been using one of my livewells, a zip loc, and an old 3600 as a combo, but it is a pain. I'd love something more simple and effective.

There are a bunch of clever people here that I bet have a neater and more organized way of storing garbage and recycling on your boat. I like to have a place for everything and I think this is about my last frontier.

Either you are pulling it right out of their mouth or not setting the hook I bet. Personally I'd try to lay into them a bit more. Tube hooks are robust enough to take it and it is just a M rod so cross their eyes and start reeling and see if it gets better.

The 6'8" MXF SC is a killer rod. Pay attention to where in the retrieve you lose the fish as that will let you know how to correct it. I have 4 of those blanks and run braid on them all and have no problems keeping fish buttoned on them.

The rod does a better job of allowing the bait to walk/jerk nearly in place without moving forward compared to anything I have ever used. It is also my walking bait rod, but when you think about the motion you are imparting in jerk baits it is about the same in particular if you are in the strike zone and want to stay there. Other rods require more energy to do the same and it is harder to control.

XF. I use 20lb braid and if I can get away with it no leader, but I would HATE fishing a jerk on a moderate rod. Won't work at all for how I work the bait. The SC 6'8 MXF is a brilliant blank for jerks.

SCIII > SCII. The rest of the rod is nearly irrelevant in comparison. Mojo all the way. Nothing wrong with the premiers, but you are paying extra for the wrong stuff.

Pike in a net with trebles will test the treble proof rubber stuff better than anything. The rubberized rope are ok if you control the fish the whole time otherwise nothing beats the true rubber ones I am too cheap to buy. As for pike. Play them to the boat, grab the line in one hand and with a pliers in the other grab your treble and release the fish in the water without lifting them. Super easy and as safe as you can get outside of possibly dropping your pliers. Took a good 5-6lber off earlier today that way with a face full of trebles. wretched completely ruined the bass bite before I caught him. Almost out him in the livewell for a bit to see if the fish would turn back on but didn't want the slimy wretched in the boat.

I can't drive the Terrova or Ulterra. SO HARD to keep the boat straight. My neighbors Reatta has one and I absolutely HATE it. He uses a remote to drive so it is fine. I have an Ultrex but am contemplating a Ghost as it syncs with my graphs better.

What brand of electronics do you run? If it is Garmin or Lowrance I would buy a matching motor

I don't need the street for that, the lake does just fine. Exactly why their is big game on my skipping reel....yarn it up, cut it off and start over.

Lord. No way would I want to skip with a baitcaster sitting down in a canoe. Just not possible to keep your elbow tucked and continually raise the rod while the cast continues. Your new boat is going to finally make a BC skip possible. As for the topic at hand. Anything light enough that needs me to manually pull line off a BC to get it to the bottom I wouldn't use a BC for. The rest I much prefer a BC as it helps me correct errant casts better than I can with spinning. The combo of thumb and rod tip also allows a softer entry for me. I am sure some feather finger casters with spinning can do that too...but not this guy.

Have to say that although I am super good at maintaining nearly everything I own there is no way in h#ll that I am going to pull the batteries in my boat to check their water level. I am sure they will die more quickly because of it, but it is a monstrous job. When they do die I will grab a lithium. In my other boats the AGM & normal lead acid have lasted about the same time. This tells me that either checking the fluid level isn't that big of a deal or that neither technology is really meant to last. The biggest key I've found is making sure they spend as much time at the fully charged state versus worn down. I would run what you have and instead of another battery just buy a cheap jump box or bring a set of jumper cables. I carry one of these and it has started many a boat. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H58NP77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank god dinkfest is over. I hate postspawn which is easily translated into I suck at fishing post spawn.

I have an el cheapo Cuda from Amazon and the Gerber. Cuda in the front of the boat as those seemingly get lost and the Gerber in the back. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K5VF8H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079DWDSXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fishing brackish water within the shallow mangroves and such I could see this being a fun toy, but no way it could replace a real boat once you have one.

Thanks Keith! Out of all the boats I've owned I've never had to do work on a trim pump. That looks simple enough

Being Dettweiller is no longer in business it is really hard to find any info. Stupidly I had my motor off 2 weeks ago and didn't think about the jack plate at that time. The jack plate works, but you can hear it cavitate if you try to go to the top. I assume that the yellow "nut" is the fill port and understand I add some, raise it, add some, raise it until it gets to the top and then cap it and go about my day. I just don't want to take off the yellow cap if that is the drain in the case that the fill port is hidden somewhere else and out of reach at the current setting. Anyone have any insight on that?

An Active Target controller and Transducer.

In Europe you see BMW 5 series sedans towing big ole campers. Many cars can way outperform their ratings here. A boat with a 20hp shouldn't be too hard on anything that can legally tow it.

I pull my Ranger, a big ole snowmobile trailer, and a 7000lb 24' recreational boat with a Jeep Grand Cherokee. It is perhaps more than you need size wise, but drives pretty small.

Dude. You NEED to buy a boat with a big rod locker RIGHT NOW. More seriously that is the safest way to move them. Otherwise I am with the others. Do it yourself.

Best bang for the buck is always used...but that takes patience.