Deephaven

I am screwing it for you an MNFisher. Getting my summer tires put on right now...

Stating it another way to answer. If two blanks have the same Fn will they always have the same tip velocity when pulled three inches down and let go? The answer is no in these conditions. 1) One has a higher mass, but same Fn. If built for power at the tip the higher mass rod put under a 3" static load will snap back faster than lighter rod. The static load will put a force on like a spring, ie Hooke's law and this can easily overcome the resonance velocity. 2) Two rods with a different taper with the same Fn. ie, one with more material at the tip. The one with more material at the tip will have a faster response. 3) Two rods with the same Fn but a different Q at that frequency. ie, a softer material or one that is more critically damped at the Fn of the rod. This rod will also have a slower tip velocity when released from 3" Perhaps I am over looking something. If so I'd love to know what. Definitely not trying to argue, but to learn. I understand materials and measurements, but haven't applied this to fishing rods before. Lastly, I know you said to try it, but I don't have two rods with the same Fn, hell I don't have two that are similar. The measurement for me is easy, the target however hard to come by. Glad to make some measurements to clarify however. Adding mass will always lower the Fn. Ie slowing it's dynamic response. It will also take more energy to move it statically (static as in DC or non-vibrational motion, think loading or static deflection). His measurement definitely correlates to seeing how a blank evolves, but I am curious how it can compare blanks and what other factors are at play.

10 years old is the sweet spot. Covid killed late model pricing. 10 years ago I sold my 04 521 and today it is worth the same as what I sold it for. It is still WAY, WAY more boat than what you are looking at and less money.

I have a laser vibrometer on my desk and can measure the Fn and complete rod response without an app. What I am curious is how that is related to the velocity of the tip in response to a static and dynamic forcing function. The dynamic portion I completely agree with. Thought perhaps you had read something somewhere where someone has done the full study.

Mick - first off, not arguing at all...just trying to understand. Glad to take this to PM, but thought it was pertinent to the thread. Modal response requires energy to excite said response. Conveniently nearly any energy will have frequency content at that frequency thus providing input. This is not the only force that will bring the rod back however. The other is the static portion of the load. The natural frequency is only the portion of the response that is dynamic. ie, if you attach a brick to your rod and put a bend in it the recovery to the normal position has nothing to do with the modal response of the blank and everything to do with it's static stiffness. Of course the higher the stiffness (leaving all other things the same) the higher the natural frequency. That is what I thought you were implying at first until you responded to my post with a no...which made me inquire about what else there was and if there is any reference material as I am curious and constantly searching for new things to learn about. As for a tutorial on the process, I can measure mode shapes in my sleep...but more interested in the application here.

The natural frequency will go up with less mass or more stiffness. It isn't ratiometric however. As for the recovery, have you measured the same stick under load and not? The natural frequency is the first bending mode which is indicative of the frequency it will ring at when excited. Once a fish is no and their is static weight this will change. Curious what you have found that states recovery is directly correlate able to the natural frequency. If comparing to identical geometries I can see it that being possible, but without discussing the damping associated with the mode shape I don't see how you can state it describes the rods recovery. It surely describes its stiffness.

Considering the other excitation of the fish is not modal in behavior measuring the natural frequency is really only an indicator that describes stiffness. A floppy rod will definitely have a lower first bending mode than a stiffer one. If you have any data that draws other conclusions or papers I would love to see them.

Turo hands down. Other than that I would just shop price as service and other rental experiences don't line up.

For $30k you can get a 21' boat with a 250, great trolling motor, newer graphs and batteries and be way ahead 3 years from now in comparison if you buy a new low end boat

Ha, in Grand Forks we got 8" of snow between 1-6pm. Now it's blowing. Saw a couple side streets with 6' drifts

Out of all tools to have dedicated a side cutters with enough oomph to cut a hook is super high on my list. Having to contort extra painfully using a crappy tool sounds beyond awful. I also can't say I see any value in a Leatherman though. 40 crappy tools is not better than three good dedicated ones.

Guess who is working in Grand Forks this week? Summerized my snowmobiles this weekend...but perhaps I should have dragged them up here so I could "get around".

The way boats are priced right now, IMO, you'd be better off going 10+ years old or getting a new one. The market is awful and the beauty of a boat is they take a monstrous resale beating for 10 years and then functionally don't really decrease in value at all afterwards. As for the warranty, the boat warranty is nearly pointless if you get a good boat but a warranty on the engine, trolling motor and electronics would be nice....sadly those are shorter and probably out of your 5 year window anyways. So if you choose a 10 year old boat, the things to look at are: motor hours at what rpm, a full compression test, electrical inspection and a verification that everything is working.

135-145 is medium; 145-155 medium well; 155+ well. I pull mine at 108f and they rest to 120-125f which is under medium rare but regularly gets close. Absolutely right in that the worse thing you can do to game is over cook it. People who order well done frighten me

I realize conch and welk aren't exactly a latest "catch" but they were a fun grab and release.

I like fast or XF for all those baits.

Snaps need to be retied super often. The only place I see value in using one are my jerkbait and crankbaits rods. Both because I will sometimes switch rapidly to slightly change depth or action. All other techniques I direct tie. Every few fish the snap gets retied as well...and definitely after every northern.

The Maui Jim thin glass are almost as light as the plastic. Crazy how light they are.

Guy at Scheel's told me an engineer from Costa left and started them. Can't confirm anything on that, but I did also think they looked like they had great lenses in them when I tried them on.

Lincoln Park is still super safe...but holy unaffordable. Chicago is my favorite city in the country with San Fran a close second. That being said I moved away as it isn't someplace I want to live as I don't want to live in a city.

Again. Baits first. Unless your answer is you ONLY throw 1-3oz sinkers... You will HATE those muskie sticks. They are pool cues. Not made at all for what you want to do. Don't even bother looking at them. I was out red fishing yesterday and amusingly was using bass tackle. Had a great day doing it. Goal was to put the kids on fish. ...larger reels, but bass rods.

Lord. Making something easy hard guys. The question first is what baits are going to be thrown. After that rod/reel selection.

Oh, I know...but that being said it is the best money you can spend on a rod IMO. Slippery slope indeed...

It is just one...for your favorite presentation. Imagine picking the butt length, action, rod length, power and such so it is perfect for how you want to use it.

Wife is on Verizon, company provides TMobile for me. My internet is faster, call audio is better and it works nearly every were her phone does and often up north I have better coverage. Regardless of price in MN I would get TMobile. Ok, not if it were way more...but it is worth more to me.