RDB

Basically yes…80 v 89 inches with both being 3 power. I use the 893 for lighter baitcasting stuff. If I need even lighter, I move to spinning.

As far as the company, they are legitimate…I have purchased a lot of lure parts from them. As far as that specific brand, I don’t own that exact one but I have an older scissor style tool like it and it works well. I don’t use it much anymore because I only occasionally need a tool anymore. Unless you are doing bulk stuff, you don’t really need to spend that much. I even use a set of mini split ring pliers or an old hook at times…whatever I have handy.

Excellent rod and if you polled NRX users, it would probably be in the top 3 of their lineup. Anyone who says it’s not sensitive v other models haven’t used it. I think of it more like a 3.5 power (between the 3 & 4 power). It will easily handle the weights you listed and the only concern I would have is how you are defining heavy vegetation. It is not what I would consider a heavy vegetation rod. I just bought the 894 and already have the 854. Tip heaviness is in the eye of the beholder but I do not consider it tip heavy at all, especially since it is typically fished tip up. It is also not dead in my hands and if you own an 893 (which I do as well) and you like it, you are not going to get a different feel from the 4 power IMO. The 4 power is probably a little more suited for heavier vegetation but I still would not consider it a HEAVY vegetation rod. Never owned or tried While I liked the Conquests, I ended up selling them and moving to all NRX for bottom contact. Edit to your swimbait/swim jig comment: While I am an NRX fanboy for bottom contact, I personally feel like there are better choices for moving applications. IMO, you can spend much less than $600 and get a rod better suited for specific moving applications.

I fish several clear water lakes but they have their own set of challenges…a lot less room for error. Many fishermen don’t like fishing clear water. And 6’ of visibility is pretty clear for a Texas lake.

If you are doing large quantities of jigs, I think the scissor type are the easiest and safest. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Jig-Eye-Cleaner-Tool If you are just using occasionally, anything with a sharp point will work. I just use a little micro screwdriver that I ground to a point.

I’m not sure how you are rigging your tube but it sounds like you are running the eye through the inside of the tube which means you have to rig the tube before tying onto your line. If you are rigging the night before, it’s probably not going to make a huge difference. You could also rig the jig and put it back in the package and just tie it on when you are ready. I put o-rings on about half of my generals when I first open the package. As far as leaving out for an extended time, they will not dry out but they will get a duller, kind of matte look. It’s really noticeable with some of the colors like Junebug which gets kind of a chalky look. When you put them back in the water, they will brighten back up a little but IME, that slightly greasy texture will never return. Personally, I leave them in the package as much as possible and don’t put them back after extended use.

The only time I use a net is in a tournament and I don’t fish them much anymore. I boat flip pretty much anything under 5lbs depending on line size and lip or belly the rest. I’m also not a fan of flipping bass into the floor of the boat and letting them flop around (not judging…just not for me). I feel like it’s easy enough to just catch the line and minimize fish handling.

It seems like so far in 2022 you are not focusing on the bottom of the water column. Granted some of your listed baits could be fished as bottom contact but they are primarily mid to upper column baits. I would also guess that you are probably fishing water with fairly good visibility based on your choices. I don’t really have go-to baits but I do have go-to brands.

Ordered a JDM Megabass ONETEN STICK because I wanted to try a shorter jerkbait rod. A few days later I was speaking with someone who had a new 895 NRX+ that got delayed through the expeditor program. He got tired of waiting and bought another and said he would take $300 for the replacement. I couldn’t resist.

Fisherman’s Warehouse has them.

I don’t know anything about Fenwick rods but I would absolutely not be using a heavy fast rod and braid with treble hook baits, especially jerk baits (I don’t know anything about pike spoons). Since you like spinning, it looks to me like you may have found your jig rod.

The only spoons I throw with any regularity are 5, 6 & 8” Lake Fork or Ben Parker flutter spoons. They can be deadly in the summer and fall months but are not a shallow water technique.

Top, sides, then meat. Top and sides can be almost anything depending on depth, meat will depend on how heavy the brush is but usually a jig or pegged worm.

You are funny too…reread the sentence and tell me how I bashed mono. Just pointed out a fact…unless you suggest they don’t use fluoro. I also stated that they use mono for specific applications and that I do as well. I never said that made them correct…just pointing out that they obviously don’t follow the flawed thinking of the fluoro bashers on this site. And it’s always the same approximately 5 posters. You are trying to find something in my post that isn’t there to make a point that doesn’t exist. I don’t hate mono…you hate fluoro. Both are fine. Misinformation on an educational site isn’t fine and should be challenged by other responsible fishermen. Sorry to OP for hijacking the thread. This does come up on every line discussion…usually within the first 10 posts (#3 this time). When it does, I have a hard time not saying anything…my apologies to you.

And that is fine…I have no intention in changing your mind. Go through my history and you will never see me bash mono though I personally prefer fluoro. It’s the mono users that spew the false scare tactics every time a line discussion starts. I won’t share my catches as it’s not my style and isn’t relevant to the topic. However, in my experience when we get to the point of a measuring contest to attempt to prove a point, we have officially jumped the shark. We know…you post that on every line thread…yet strangely fluoro remains popular.

Do you really think they respool their line every night? And even if they did (they don’t), are you saying it’s because of stretch? They probably respool more than most because as you said, they have that luxury. However they likely respool every reel regardless of line type (with the exception of braid). And it’s not just the TV pro’s that overwhelmingly choose fluoro. You will find that fluoro is heavily preferred in the vast majority of bass clubs. I know you are a mono fan and that’s fine. I have no hate for mono and it does have place in my arsenal as well. People should use what they are confident in but IMO, they also shouldn’t spread false fear because of their bias. I’m not saying you are spreading false fear. I just responded because literally every topic on this board that has anything to do with line will eventually get to fluoro bashing.

I don’t understand why people keep saying fluoro can’t be stretched or it will ruin it. You would think there has never been a fish over 2 pounds caught on fluoro or that no fisherman with a cross the eyes hookset has ever used fluoro. Most of my reels have fluoro and probably a lighter test than normal and I respool infrequently. I occasionally hang up and have to break the line using max effort and regularly catch fish that I think are going to test the lines limits and have never had an issue. It’s ok to hate fluoro and it’s ok to bash others that like it if it makes you feel better. However, it seems to me that some let their hate of fluoro and those who use it cloud common sense. It’s funny that those who make their living bass fishing consistently choose fluoro over a SUPER popular mono promoted on this site (or any mono for that matter) by an overwhelming margin. And when they do choose mono, it’s almost always for technique specific applications which I do as well.

I’m a NRX fanboy but I would never spend that kind of money for a Chatterbait rod. Personally I have tried a lot of rods and would choose the Alpha Angler ChatterBound over all of them (the rebound is excellent as well). However, it is a composite rod…frankly don’t understand why that would be a deal breaker. https://www.alphaangler.com/collections/bait-casting-rods/products/alpha-angler-chatterbound

I still order from old reliable all the time. Much of what I purchase is not available in stores and as frustrating as they are, their selection is still tough to beat. I just drop things in my wish list and buy when I get above $50 for free shipping. If I need something immediately, I look elsewhere.

My first step would be to sell the 10XD’s for something less than 2oz and 6” long. You can reach 20+ feet with less tug of war ?. As far as rods, I am a fan of the Alpha Angler Mag-Rebound.

On many mesh rod socks, the bottom is just cut and folded on the inside (I.e. Rod Gloves). You can shorten them by folding more of the mesh to the inside to your preferred length and hit the end with an iron to create a new crease. Now you have a custom length.

I mostly fish the single jointed glide baits and I don’t think you can’t really fish them wrong. Sometimes they want a slow roll and other times they want something more erratic. However, I move the larger swimbaits with the reel, not the rod…they can wear you out pretty quickly. I most commonly slow roll early in the retrieve and shift to quick half turns of the reel or short burns mid retrieve to make it flair side to side, then back to slow roll closer to the boat. You will likely get a lot of followers and IME, those quick burns often will make them commit.

I think you can be nice, share knowledge about senkos, and still point out proper etiquette. I think most people either don’t apply everyday etiquette to their fishing behavior or they just don’t care. Most of us would’t jump across to the front at checkout when the other line calls for next. Same with parking spaces or any number of situations we face daily. However, get on the water and all bets are off. This isn’t about a rule book or “it’s a public lake”. It’s about a lack of common courtesy often exhibited on our waters, yet understood and displayed by MOST in every day situations.

I only use leaders on my spinning gear and I use longer than most. One reason I use longer leaders is because I only use spinning gear for slow, finesse presentations and I use hi-vis braid. The other reason I use long leaders is because I retie if I feel any line damage and I’m too lazy to tie on a new leader. Edit: I use mono for topwater and fluoro for crankbaits. Personally I don’t think braid is a good choice for cranks..

There are more similarities between bass and bluegill spawns than bass and shad. Threadfin are our predominate baitfish and the daily window is small and ends shortly after after sunup, maybe a little longer if cloudy (most of it takes place at night). They will choose different areas but they will want something hard to spawn on (wood, docks, riprap, reeds, etc.). If they are spawning, you will know. Water around 70 is a good indicator. Bluegill have a more traditionally bass looking spawn with spawning phases, beds, etc. You don’t need to be on the water at first light for bluegill. Also, the shad spawn can be a good time to pull our your white bladed spinnerbaits.