bunkerbstr

Skirted punch rig.

I bought the 894C E6X about 3 months ago. Use it for jigs and c-rig fishing. As you would expect it's not as crisp as their IMX or GLX line but overall it's a decent rod. Like others have mentioned, it's a bit heavier than Loomis' other offerings but I suppose we should expect that. No issues with the rod at all, guides seem alright, cork is typical Loomis quality and balances well with 200 Chronarch. Would I buy another one? Yes.

Prior to changing out the hooks, lay the bait in a bowl or sink of cool water (assuming you're swimming them in cool water). Note how the bait rests in the water with the stock hooks and even take a pic for reference if you want. Then start messing around with replacement hooks. 110's are engineered so tightly, that if you mess with them you're taking a chance on reducing their effectiveness. That being said, if it sinks super slow, as in, barely sinks, that's not necessarily a bad thing in cool/cold water. I'd start with #6 hooks, though short shanks in larger size may weigh about the same. Light wire hooks for sure. Guys above mention Owners; solid choice. I'm not a huge fan of the stock hooks on them either. They are sharp and work fine, though they bend easily. Good luck.

I'm with the fellas here - leader length depends on what/where you're fishing. An overall length that should cover most situations? I'd say 2' is good. Experiment with leader length to see what works best for you.

Trokar tube hook for sure. Eagle Claw makes a tube hook too - Shaw Grigsby HP hook. It has a clip to lock the bait on the hook.

BPS has them.

Confession -- It's been ~60 days since my last tackle purchase! After going through the last dozen or so pages of this thread I've decided that there are about 10 things I need and another 10 that I don't even know I'll buy until checkout time. Thanks guys! BTW - this is one of the best threads I've read. Love it!

Agree with MassBass - doubtful you'll catch the hooked fish again, but there might be more hanging around that area so it's always worth a few follow up casts.

Make sure the bait is rigged straight. Next, try using the largest hook you can get away with - UV Craw - a 3/0 does work. For the mid-size Paca you can use a 4/0 and a 5/0 if you're using the big Paca. Also may want to try using belly weighted swimbait hook with the screwlock keeper. One last thing to think about. When you're crawling those things along the bottom they don't have the tendency to spin like they do when you're speed reeling it back to the boat to fire off another cast. Hope this helps.

Hard to be the LC Pointer - 78, 100 series and if you're looking to go deeper than 6' try the 100DD which gets down to around 10' give or take. I also like the Spro McStick and the Spro McRip jerkbaits, both are quality baits with good hooks. There's also the Rapala Husky Jerk and X-rap. The Husky Jerk is a pretty subtle jerkbait compared to the others mentioned so if the water is real cold I would try that one. The X-rap comes in a bunch of sizes and colors and is priced in the mid-range with the Husky Jerk being the least expensive. The Pointers will cost you around $15 a piece. Not sure of your budget here but if you're starting from scratch and wanted to pick up a few those are what I would try first. Stick to a few colors - Silver/Shad patterns and some Tenn Shad and ghost patterns. I would get the standard and the deep diving depending on where the fish are hanging out that day. Try them both and the old saying applies here, you can't fish a jerkbait too slow in the winter. Good luck!

They now come with oval split rings. ;D Same here, catch enough fish the chrome chips off. Don't slap the bait on the water to shake weeds off of them either, that will tear them up too. Good thing they're only $5. Though I have this old gold one (now silver) that has but a little bit of the black back on it and still catches fish. Ugly bait, but it works.

Colder water, 35-45 deg., I like Husky Jerks, more subtle than the X-rap or Pointers which I'll use in water above 45 deg. Just my opinion, between the Husky Jerk, LC Pointer series should have you covered. LC makes a bunch of different Pointers (XD, DD, Slender, and the Flash Minnow) which all have different action/depths. Like others have said, the Ima is a sweet bait too, I only have a couple of those but they work.

I own five of the 200DHSV series Curados, a bit heavier than the B's and E's but very nice reels. I forget who (maybe TW) someone had them on clearance a couple of years ago and I picked up three of them. I fish them all the time and have yet to have an issue. Great drag, cast great just a little clunky compared to other reels. I think the D Series is better than the E Series and without a doubt better than the B Series. I saw a few on Ebay the other day going for close to retail if that says anything. Scoop one up, you'll like it.

I ran into the same situation a few years ago - went to buy Yama hulas and they were out of stock, wound up buying the Yum. Tied them on and took them fishing. They're a solid hula, no complaints, have good scent, hold up better than the Yamas too. Since then, I've bought both brands and haven't noticed much of a difference between them other than saving a few bucks on the Yum.

Here's what I do: -I have 3700 boxes filled with each of the plastics I use (tubes, craws, senkos, lizards). I keep the 3700 boxes full/in the boat and have back-up inventory left at home. Like others mentioned, I store the back-ups in the Rubbermaid storage containers (shoe box size) at the house. The only soft plastics I keep in the packs (onboard) are Powerbait items and of course the Gulp stuff. Otherwise, they get thrown in a 3700 box which gives me the quanity & variety I need.

Dmac, Motorguide doesn't recommend using the 3 bladed prop (Hydrilla hacker) with that motor. Though it will fit and work, they say it causes additional strain on the lower unit which may prematurely tear up the motor. That said, who cares, I used to have that same motor and used the Hydrilla Hacker (Motorguide product) for a couple of years and it worked ok on that bow mount. They have a new 2 blade weedless prop out there that is supposed to be pretty good. Not sure if the 3 blade Hydrilla Hacker got the best reviews as some were not balanced well.

I agree with Cart7t. Remove the head, there is a gear at the top of the inner shaft and the locking nut likely came loose. Tighten it down and line up the teeth and you should be good to go. From the photos it doesn't appear you snapped your cable at the pedal, though it could busted be under the shrink tubing but not likely.

-I have 2 of the Falcon Terminal Tackle boxes (large size) - best box out there! I use one for hooks, the other for weights. -I have 1 of the large Spinnerbait box (orange one) and it's great too. The Terminal Tackle box has fixed dividers so your weights, hooks etc will not leave their spot, they're water resistant and lock on 3 sides so they'll stay shut and keep your stuff dry & secure. The Spinnerbait box holds baits up to 1 oz. I believe mine holds about 18 spinnerbaits which is plenty to keep onboard my boat. I've heard bad things about the jig boxes though, guys have problems locking in heavier jigs and stuff so be mindful of that. As for the jerkbait/crankbait boxes I still use the Plano style. I have way too many plugs to start loading Falcon boxes up. I'd spend hundred of dollars and need a barge to pull my baits around. ;D I'd definitely go with the Terminal Tackle box, you won't be disappointed.

-10" Berkley Power Worm -1/2 Jig & pig -Swimbait - Poor Boy Silly Rabbit, Osprey -7" Senko

Loomis all the way. I have a few of each; the 843 and 845 and love them both for lipless baits among other things. Grass = 845 gets the nod. Open water = 843 gets the nod. 845 is a bit heavier handling baits up to 1 ounce, helps if you have to rip the bait through the grass. The 843 has more give, though is rated up to 5/8 which handles most lipless baits. Whichever you choose, you won't be disappointed. Heck, if you can afford both, I'd say get one of each.

Yea I love the DT's but have had a few break for no apparent reason. Doesn't seem to matter if its the DT6 or DT10 or DT16, I've broken lips on all of them. I will say that I have crashed them into rock/wood during their life too, so it's not totally Rapala's fault. They lips are thin and as a result, fragile. I believe that's what may help them get down a bit quicker/deeper and every now and then we have to sacrifice one as a result. Sucks when it happens especially when it's one of the "good" ones. I agree with others, never smack your baits on the water to clear grass/slime. I'd try to return it to where you bought it, they'll replace it for you.

It does happen though there is a remedy. Try using the Mend-it glue to repair torn up baits. I picked up a couple of bottles last year and found this stuff to be the best that I've found. Today's formula is different from the previous which got thick and unusuable. This is a must have if you're fishing soft swimbaits - works on every other plastic too - extends the life of soft baits. Dries pliable and does not harden like other glues: http://www.***.com/descpageMENDGLUE-MIG.html One tip is to take your pile of baits and fix a bunch at once for the next trip. You can do it while you're on the water, but make sure you let it cure. It doesn't take too long to cure, but if you let it cure overnight you'll have much better results. Good luck.

Great info from you guys. My crankbait deal is a softer rod and either fluorocarbon or copolymer line depending or the depth/type of bait. I think the M/H rod coupled with the braid is too much for crankbait fishing which is why you're likely loosing fish. It may take some experimenting on your part, keep plugging away at it until you get it dialed. Practice, practice. Try using a slow sweeping hookset, rather than a hard hookset - just let the rod load up with the fish's weight. Hooks can/should be replaced if they're in question. It seems you have a solid crankbait that's getting bit, so I'd keep using that bait till ya loose it.

There are two screws on each side of the hook holder. What I did is remove 1 screw and loosen the other enough to I can slide the hook holder away from the body and remove the hook & replace. I've done this to about 5 Jitterbugs and haven't had an issue yet. But, as mentioned it would be easier if you just cut the hooks off and threw on a set of split rings. Next time I'll do that, gives you a bit more leverage over the fish versus a hook just hanging from the hook holder. Good call Raul.

You have to unscrew the hook holders with a small screwdriver. When you put them back in don't over tighten them, just snug them up. A split ring might help too just make sure they won't tangle. Maybe a short shank Mustad? I forget what hooks I put on mine, likely Gamakatsu. I'd keep the hook size the same if you could.