Tatulatard

My store has a bin in the middle of the isle with $2.75 bags of bass pro soft baits. It looks like old stock that has been on the racks for a while. I like their plastics and have been using them for years to great affect. I got 9 and 16 packs of baits for $2.75. Best scores were 6" 16 pack of stick-os in a baby bass color with flake and some dark colored 9 pack crack craws I like as versatile creature baits. Also got come craw tubes to try as well as a drop shot bait. My favorite cold water jig trailer was also snagged. The elite chunk. It has a super subtle flapping action at moderate speed and none when crawled.

Not me. I don't fish senkos very often. I'll keep a bag or two on hand to switch between my other stick baits to see if they make a difference but my stick-os work just the same every time. The lure is so overused now that fish will turn off them. My fish have seen every senko under the sun throw at docks and I swear actively avoid the baits now. I'm skipping under to get an advantage over dock pitchers and using caffeine shads and a certain jackall fish shapped bait that spiral falls to re-ignight my dock bite game. Back gliding baits, dark sleepers and ned rigs skipped under docks are also all effective for me when the fish turn off to stick worms.

I got 15 and 12 lbs at Walmart to try on some budget combos. It was actually cheaper than vanish sitting right next to it. It's a bit stiff and slightly elastic in the world of flourocarbon lines with a cloudy rather than crystal clear transparency. For the price that's not an issue to me. Besides all my "clear" lines get line that after some use.

80. Put the 70 on a rod to skip weightless plastics.

Daiwa 150/200. 2013 platforms that are solid and work.

I like 20 lbs big game. It's like a 30 lbs of normal line. 20 lbs big game is some serious stuff. I would absolutely trust it over a 30 lbs flouro. Anyway I use a uni even though I shouldn't. I use it for all my terminal knots and have never "broken off" on a hookset or anything like that in the 10+ years I have been using it so I have had no incentive to learn the weird spinny bait knot everyone uses.

I find it to be more efficient. With a bend and send type cast you are just placing the rod over your shoulder and loading up the rod with the weight of the bait and pulling down and back with your the hand on the rear grip then following through with the rest of the cast. Don't put too much into it with the arm and shoulder holding the rod by the grip behind the reel seat. Remember, this is a casting technique change 1st and foremost. You dont get to buy a longer rod and keep casting like you would normal bass baits and expect things to be different.

Longer than all your other normal bass rods. For me it's over 15". If you want a longer kayak big bait stick for under $150 then it seems like a good fit. You'll shoot your eye out

I still use my 15 .5" handle short big baits rods if that is all I brought with me. Its a casting technique but you will get better distance with a long rod. I was throwing a 4 3/4 oz Savage gear pulse tail trout the other day sending it down a point from shallow to deep from a kayak with a 7'2" rod . With a bait that heavy and no target casting being required I used the bend and send over head cast. Earlier I was using the same rod to cast a 1.5 oz gantarel jr towards the bank like I would a senko with a normal rod relying heavily on wrist and elbow rotations with lots of forearm. Different casting techniques for different baits. I will say that a long rod and handle is more better suited for casting with a bend and send and a shorter rod for target casting. For a long traditional swimbait rod for casting while seated in a kayak I would want about 17" handle max with a 7'4" 7'8" length range. Yep. Although you can use that other casting motion you will get worn out. I do use them but only in target casting fashion with a shorter rod and a max weight of 3 oz. Putting 5 and 6 inch 3D bluegills and gantarels around docks gets me a big bite every year while everyone else is throwing the currrent meme glide in the middle of the lake.

Maybe but thats not the root cause of the issue. With baits in that weight range with a 7'-7-3", 15" handle rod you can and will naturally want to use the same casting motions to cast 3 oz as you do 3/8 oz baits. This is actually advantagous because you can place baits with high accuracy and control tight to cover from a kayak in a way you can't with an 8' rod with a 23" handle but it puts stress on your joints. I use these short big bait rods extensively but stop at about 2.5 to 3 oz. Beyond that weight range the baits place too much stress on my joints and are difficult to place quietly in the water. For open water casting and baits over 3 oz I prefer a "bend and send" over head type cast where the rod does the work. This is where the long rods with long handles come into play. You're just loading the stick and letting it act like a lever and spring.

I do 1-3 oz baits seated from a kayak a lot. My favorite two rods are Japanese rods since a heavy plus in the 7'-7'2" range is more common in the Japanese markets and USDM big bait rods are long and geared for bass boat use. I find a typically USDM big bait rod too unwieldy from a kayak. I have no experience with this rod but majorcraft rods are excellent and its a legit JDM majorcraft rod sold in the US. For over 3 oz I would recommend the legit designs wild side. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-MJRRODS.html?from=basres

You can always pay full retail plus tip on tacklewarehouse, wait 2 weeks for it to show up and then get your card info stolen.

I put prefer the tiny 04 over the small frittside but still use both a ton. I use the bigger frittsides a lot as well and like them. Excellent baits. I find that I like the rapalas better for the slow rise and thinner bill. I can crawl them and they have better action at slow speed the way that thin bill slices through the water. They also rise slightly faster than the frittside which nearly suspend and can make crawling rip rap annoying. I have no opinion on the OG 06 yet but the tiny 04 is a winner. Also wood > plastic for me. I always have an appreciation for a bait made out of wood. If its a rapala and its made from wood then its a fish catcher. The berkley hard baits are excellent though. I'm very impressed with their hard baits as a whole and have a lot of faith in them. Way better hard baits than the powerbait is a softbait.

Did you click the brakes on or off? If they are free to slide up then that is the on position. 4 brakes on should be more than sufficient. Are you using a slinky for line? Big stiff line will have difficulty moving through a non t wing level wind and will fluff up on the spool.

Daiwa or industry standard size of 8x5.

Agree. This was good. I now understand the purpose of the lews bushing. Fundamentally the pinion support remains unchanged. It's a feature for when the spool is out of the reel.

This is the reel in question if anyone is wondering. This is what we refer to as the "SV 103" because that's the name daiwa gave to their 34 mil spool old zillion as a last hurrah of the platform. It wasn't called a zillion because they already had tatula based zillion out at the time. They also sold us the alphas sv at the same time but called it an "SV 105" since Americans can't handle the reel being called "alphas". The 1st time it came around it was called "sol" for the same reason.

It's the original zillion. It's an insanely smooth reel and built to last.

The reel has centrifugal brakes that are hidged and free to swing. They will swing around and make contact with the race and seat back against the spool making noise as the reel is shook or when the spool is spun and slowed to a stop with the reel held horizontally.

Don't send it back. What you are hearing is the centrifugal brakes moving around. This is normal. See this thread. Same braking system. Same noise. Same advice.

Word on this stuff gets out in Japan or on the Japanese site 1st. Follow the project t videos and browse the shimano and daiwa Japanese sites for new reel listings.

They are riding the hype from the dark sleeper. Both the gill and craw were announced at the same time with the craw now just making it to market

Its got the abs spool. I can see the "tatula line lay issue" threads now. Here is an older video for it from project t

If you fish flooded brush and docks with 10 lbs flouro paired to 1/16 to 1/8 oz head on small plastics you gain an appreciation for bfs rods real fast. That line on a spinning reel is no fun. Also true bfs rods designed for this exact scenario have more power than any spinning rod I have ever used to cast the same baits. A "light" bfs rod will shut off from the 1st guide to the butt and give you a nice stick to pull at fish and get them away from that cover.

Solid tips are a unusual. You either love them or hate them. I'm on the fence myself. They do make for a very good strike indicator and for a bottom contact rod they can reduce the amount of movement the bait makes towards the angler with rod hops when the rod tip loads. This can be good or bad depending on what you want. I like it. Weight wise I like a heavier well balanced rod. Give me a complete rod. More often than not the pursuit of super light weight yields rods that are unfinished without machined and anodized aluminum parts giving a decidedly low end and incomplete appearance often paired to a tip heavy balance. The opposite of "high end' or "tip tier". Aluminum winding checks and lock nuts give way to nothing at all or thread work at most. See: the edge epitome abomination rod.