Banned User

I'll try to find something on how then if it's that easy, Buy what happens if I use a reel without the bearing retainer clip?

Swapped out the spool bearings on a reel for the first time, on my OG Concept Z. Happend to have a couple beers along the way and I lost the stupid little tiny retainer clip. Is this really a big deal? Can I fish without it? What could happen if I do?

Like my Ned rigs anonymous thread impli... expressly states, I have a problem. I pretty much found myself finesse fishing like 85% of the time. I'm trying to break the habit, haven't brought one this year almost at all. Caught my first jig fish, remembered why I used to love spinnerbaits, caught my first buzzbait bass in years (DAMB that felt good), and started my swim jig fetish the end of last year... this is ONE HUNDRED PERCENT the best season I've had in a decade.

Ssssoooo is @Catt a dumb Cajun? I was searching about Cajun red line and found this https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/search/?&q=cajun&page=1&search_and_or=and I appreciate the laughs brother, seeing you say something like that so many times on multiple pages had me gassed haha. But anybody have any feedback on that Cajun red line? Like Berkeley BG? Better? Worse? Something else?

Which victory you talking about and do you have others?

@Shadowx I got the spinning 6'10 for windy crappy days I don't wanna deal with a baitcaster (my 6'10 SLX), but I didn't realize the grip length was crazy long when I ordered it. The best way to decide between spinning and casting is your comfort level with baitcaster and your equipment. If you have something that can handle weightless flukes and you're comfortable casting them go for it. If you'd rather not deal with a bait caster and birds nests with light lures go spinning. I used spinning for flukes for a long time, no problem with it at all, I prefer 15-20 pound braid on spinning set ups maybe more 20 for sparse cover.

Which 2 you get and di you already have one? I grabbed the 73H MF for $115, already have the 72mhmf and love the way it feels but wanted something with a little more back bone. I'm hoping I get the same bed profile just with a little more power behind it. Yeah but St. Croix, from my experience, has killer customer service and still warranted my B stock mojo over 1 year maybe about 2 years a couple years back. I have no idea what the blemish was in that rod, but is nothing that will affect the rod function.

I think there's a little bit of a conflation of terms here regarding what people mean by keeping fish and its impact on population. Keeping bass in general isn't necessarily detrimental, but keeping big bass is indeed detrimental to "big bass population." If there's 10,000 bass taking a few is no big deal, if there's 100 bass over 7 pounds taking a few is a big deal. My cousin ate a 7 pound smallie, he was bragging about catching a monster. I told him he took the chance of his boy ever catching that fish away. He took the chance of any other angler away, I'm not impressed I'm disappointed. You wanna eat smallies fine, but let the ones who made it live. Nobody should be allowed to take a bass over 4 - that's a fish who's seen a lot and earned his place.

re-watch the videos from my thread, I'll try to post some more just so we can all have the same frame of reference because my point in that thread is to address your question There are tons of videos of bass strikes where waiting to set the hook is the right thing to do. There are tons of videos showing that if you wait half a second you just blew your chance at a 10 pounder who sucked the whole lure, hook or hooks and all, into their mouth and then spit without any sticky sharps getting sticky stuck. There is no "right" way, and I'm going to address a comment in that thread whom I think has a decent philosophy on their approach to which way to go and when to set quick and when to wait. Also depends on your equipment, you using a fast rod with high speed reel? give'm a sec to take the lure in. Using a moderate fast rod and medium spd reel? Set the hook. But really again, there appears to be no right or wrong way, even for any given lure seeing how those 6 hooks were engulfed and spit so quick without hooking anything. That one BLEW my mind. In my mind at present I think what I will do from now on is try to be mindful of the size of my lure, longer lures with plastic away from the hook I think I'll give'm a second, but only a second. shorter baits I will set sooner before they blow it back out, but also try to tighten up the presentation with shorter plastics. I also plan to watch as many underwater strikes as possible for each lure to see how it is often attacked by bass, and adjust according to that as well.

That's my point, its actually less than 2 revolutions in that comparison. But I was tired and didn't complete my thoughts... Sometimes a 7x ratio is 33 IPT and at 100' that puts handle turns at 36 and 52. So with the greater difference (which is more common, 7.x being over 31IPT) this means you would need to reel in 40% slower or faster to compensate either way which is a HUGE difference when comparing your natural reeling cadence to what you are aiming for. a 40% increase in decrease in the rate of anything is absolutely significant and noticeable in practice.

I think a lot of people drink that Shimano whiskey around here haha. After a few they're out there casting with this

I got a Croix Victory 7'2 MHMF and freakin love how it feels for spinnerbaits and chatterbaits, even swim jigs (although I think I'd like a touch more power). I use this every time I get out. I'm exploring it for jigs, but no verdict yet, but it will also, as it's designed, be great for just about any Treble hook bait within its casting range save for a jerkbait due to its length. That's what my 6'9 Fitzgerald Versa is for, also the chatterbaits and such. For fluke style baits I've learned I don't like anything over 6'10. I have a 6'10 MXf SLX (casting) I fluke with and like a lot and for some denser cover a 6'9 MHF Cadence Fishing (casting) that performed quite well for its price point. Here's part of the problem, when someone recommends a medium or medium heavy rod it actually doesn't mean anything. St. CROIX MHf, Looms MHf, Dobys MHf, Abu Garcia MHf all feel different even at the same length. There is no standard. What brand is your 6ft rod? It could certainly be used for flukes, so long as it has enough backbone for hook sets and fast enough to present properly. But it might be too light or limp... try it. See how it feels, then you'll know. I recommend looking into building your own rod. A little more investment up front, although there's plenty of ways around that. And if you like to fish, which you seem to do, you'll eventually be posting about making another rod for some other technique. If you have no interest in building (at least look into it a bit, it's freakin sweet!) Then here's what to look for in a fluke rod: 1. On the shorter side to help with presentation, the short twitches are much easier to control under 7 ft. 2 . Medium for sparse cover MH for denser cover. Again this is a little subjective, but feel what you have and think do you want more power/it's perfect/ or it's a little much. 3. Fast or XF to twitch and move the fluke with short movements, plus gets the backbone hook set quicker. 4. Shorter rods often have shorter grip lengths, but not always so check the grip length. I got a 6'10 medium xf spinning to use when it's too junkbout to use my SLX casting. Problem is the handle is like 14 inches or something wicked freakin stupid so I hate it for flukes. I'd say 10 inches is but everybody is different with different length arms and different size bellies. Doesn't need to be top of the line, but could be and you could certainly multi purpose the rod. I really like the 6'10 MXf for light jigs and t-rigs, flukes, spinnerbaits, shaky heads, and small swimbait/paddle tails. You don't need tons pend a lot but there is a certain amount of feel and lightness you get when you spend a little more. Then there's a point where spending more doesn't get you that much more... law of diminishing returns. Or you could build it yourself, measure your arm and hold the blank so you know exactly where you like the grip to sit, make the rod custom fit you and how you fish. You can make high quality rods without paying the jacked up prices to cover their overhead. Just sayin

Me too bro, I remember watching Glenn when Matt and Tim were still learning to fish. Was a stalker here for quite a few years haha

I have found all the logs on every body of water I fish by setting my hook fast and deep into the side of'em. I often have one mini heart attack an outing thinking I'm hooking my new PB... Sometimes I don't catch and release

I've never even seen or heard if a 2oz spinnerbait haha. But it's all about the IPT, a 7x ratio that's 28IPT and a 5x that's 23IPT are NOT separated by two handle turns - but you are making the right point if one has the self control to slow down. The difference either way is minimal all things considered, but as @Captain Phil pointed out getting that right speed is critical, and I think I might by close with my 28IPT over my 33IPT with a little less thought. But now yall got me thinking I should check what my 21IPT reel will do.

I'll bring an appetite and enough of whatever this is to share

I think he means for the live...

Yeah, if this was on YouTube I'd tune in, too bad. Glenn you should do a YouTube live yourself on the Bass Resource channel. There's actually quite a bit you could do with that channel and this forum in conjunction.

I hear ya, I was just asking because they were so close in size, if they're different in weight I'd imagine that means a difference in material which would likely be that 300 IP difference. CCS is certainly helpful, not perfect, as nothing is, but has its place.

What spinnerbaits would be taxing? I would ask what the IPT is for that millionaire, or at least the ration. I tend to reel way faster than I should, I'm thinking I need a bit of a slower reel so that I can fish at my comfortable and natural pace, way too fast, but not actually be burning the spinnerbait and raising it up in the water column. Are you having an issue with casting the spinnerbaits on that reel? fluff? heavy? like I mentioned, the IPT? If its working for ya, there's no need to change. If you feel like it would feel different or the presentation could be improved explore some options. A number of factors contribute to a reels performance, but I find that sometimes spinnerbaits can get the reel a bit fluffy on the cast of they catch the wind right. I have been using the Tatula SV103 and diggin it for absolutely everything I throw on it. 3/8-1/2 oz spinnerbaits on 8# hybrid (about same dia as 10#mono) with no trailer or very light short thin body trailers have been really castable and retrieve smooth on the 7:1. Its a 7:1 with a little bit less than typical IPT for that ratio, given the reels/spools smaller size. I tell ya though I got an old 13 fishing Origin A used for real cheap and might give them a go on that since its a 6:1 to slow me down yet, I find I'm still pulling up colorado and indiana blade baits quicker than I think I should when I'm not muttering to myself "slow down fool"

The next question would then be how much do they each weigh? I'll say I'm less bothered by blanks/rods clearly marked as separate and different by intended purpose having different characteristics ie. the S vs C version with 300ip difference. But if the same blank/rod series had a 300ip difference between a 6'6 MF and a 7'2 MF that would be concerning. Or honestly even within the same manufacturer there should only be a reasonable difference between series, otherwise what the heck is the point of reference for the consumer? But spinning blanks are widely designed to be lighter in power in general, and I think rightfully so as that is often their intended use. Its kind of like an octave and ahrps and flats in music, we don't use 188 different symbols for each sound but only 7, with a couple of specific modifiers to adjust accordingly for those in between sounds, the issue is when each manufacturer tunes their rods to a different key, so that across manufacturers (and oftentimes even internally) the same C sharp (MxF) is not actually the same as the next one. A SC/RG blank that is MHF should feel about the same in terms of power and speed (given a reasonable deviation) across rod/blank lines. A mojo and legend will feel and fish different to a degree, but both being MHF should behave in a similar fashion when it comes to loading and casting and fighting a fish.

They had the right idea, I see they're still active. They should have a crew in every state, I never even heard of them until today. Still hurts the wallet when you grow up, but better than some other things we could be wasting money on.

I really don't think I have a need for $150 worth of stuff to get free shipping. Searches pull up tons of Amazon and Ebay stores, what are some different suppliers I should check out for skirts and maybe jig heads? Better separate? Fly tying shops? Thanks

100% on this! for 30 bucks its a no brainer - get it shipped to store if possible. You will undoubtedly have a much better experience on the Yukon. It drags a little in the water, but crazy stable. I stand and paddle sometimes.

Me when I drop a Nedhead on the ground @Team9nine Do you over indulge or need a free hit?