.dsaavedra.

dude its not that much trouble to take off the sideplate. specially on shimanos because they have that quarter turn key system....at least my citica does. very easy to open. you siply lift a piece up, twist it a quarter turn, and that unlocks it and the sideplate swings open on a hinge. plus like someone said before, you are pretty safe with leaving two or three on and the rest off and you wont have to change it too often. i dont really notice much difference in the braking power in either style, its just one of those thigns that doesnt matter much. the only problem i have with magnetic brakes is that i always end up switching them when i palm the reel, messing up my casts. i do like my VBS but i wouldnt stay away from a reel depending on what brakes it has.

part one shimano citica part two shimano chronarch

i'd like to but i cant find em on sale anywhere!

i looked briefly at falcons, but i dont think i looked at fenwicks. im gonna go check them out now

its all good man, just saying my experiences. now that i think of it, i was using a steel leader w/ a snap at the end cuz there are toothies in that pond, so that probably added some weight. i was using a size 9 original floater, no split ring. that leader probably weighted it down more, but even just a regular snap swivel would mess up the action. rapalas are very sensitive baits....ive had a tiny piece of grass get wrapped around the hook and it completely kills the action.

sassy shads and swimbaits like that dont have very good action. the big flat sides tip the lure over on its side and cause it to go on a plane. now they might work if you put a belley weight on them to keep em upright....but the tail action still aint that great. i like their tournement worms. they look like they have good action...cheap prices tooo!!! $4 and some change for 20 worms!!! thats great if you ask me.

i still dont see whats wrong with those physically, they look finished to me. but i understand what you mean about killing the action. those original banjo minnow look like about the only TV lure that is worth it. i still wouldnt by any tho.

actually it does limit the action. i tried it one day, and it makes floating lures sink. it puts way too much weight on the nose, so it sinks down nose first, very slowly. all that weight in the front doesnt allow the bait to work properly.

that is a big pickerel!!!! im suprised it only weighs 5 pounds tho. MD state record is 7 pounds something ounces so imagine how big that would be! nice pics davis

the allstar has more guides than the daiwa, so its good in that category. ugh im so undecided and torn the daiwa looks better and looks alot more comfortable, but im afraid its not going to be as sensative. i even went as far as to make up a pro and con sheet for both rods. the all star came up with an even number of pros and cons, like 5 each, and the daiwa came up with like 8 pros and 3 cons......

ok thanks raul, you been a big help. so, out of the two rods, which would you buy?

i think they look dumb. but then again, senkos look dumb too, but look what they turned out to be! what are they anyway?

for some reason i always thought those were a topwater bait...i might pick one up and give it a try.

jeeze, i wasnt trying to accomplish anything, i just simply wanted to see some pics of some fish anyone has caught on a senko.....

wow ur the luckiest man alive that they sent you a rod, let alone a KISTLER!!!!! your also pretty lucky to get a useful lure...most of the lures they send me are junky little tiny sample packs of dumb soft plastics.

ok. ive never heard of line slap happening. is line slap a bad thing? is there a way of comparing the sensativity of two different rods from two different manufacures with out actualy using each of them?

ya welcome! sorry guys, but i fixed that last pic. i had the wrong link, so now it does show his 5lber, not mine. c'mon pplz! lets see some fish!

ok mods, i'd like to let you know i dont intend for this to be a bait war or battle of the brands or anything, so i'd like for this to not be deleted...pweeze what i would like to see is some friendly pics of any fish you have caught on any senko style bait. include a pic of the fishies, what bait and how you were using it, and measurements on the fish if possible! lets see just how great senko style baits can be! i'll start this one off... 16" pickerel on a 4" junebug yum dinger weightless and texas rigged. 18" pickerel same method. 16" largemouth on 4" junebug yum dinger wacky rigged. my dad's 12.5" yellow perch caught on a 4" pearl/silver glitter yum dinger wacky rigged. my dads 15.5" largemouth caught on a 7" green pumpkin/pearl laminate yum dinger texas rigged. 18" largemouth on a 4" pearl/silver glitter yum dinger wacky rigged. 16" largemouth same method. 17" largemouth on a 4" junebug yum dinger texas rigged. my buddies 5lber (somewhere around 20" i think) caught on a 5" pearl/silver glitter yamamoto senko deadsticking. so lets see some senko fish!!!!

not sure but i wish i knew. it was a small red zebco spincast on a matching pistol grip rod that was about 5foot. i remember th handle brushed against the body of the reel w/ each turn and i used to practice casting so much in my yard that i eventually wore a hole in the side of the body. i was sad then.... but my first bass combo was just a few years ago it was a shakespeare synergy combo. POS broke after my first day of bassfishing. so after that i got my second bass combo which is still in good use today an okuma stratus st30 on a shakespeare ugly stick 6'6" M.

Not really, if you stay within one manufacturer 's IM ratings yes, the higher the modulus the more sensitive and light the rod will be, problem is when you try to compare brand A to brand B from different manufacturer. For ex with Shimano Scimitar is less sensitive and heavier than Clarus or Carbomax, they are less sensitive and light than Compre, Compre is less sensitive and light than Crucial and so on. ok thanks for clearing that up. yes i am aware that you dont want a stiff rod at all for crankbaits. i knew that before i made this thread. i guess i shouldnt have listed that as one thing i will use the rod for. i will mainly use it for weightless soft plastics. i do use cranks on my bendy as hell ugly stick and it seems to do a good job w/ cranks. so you really think that the L&T are the most sensative rods in their class? they do look comfortable. but they have alot less guides than the allstar. does that have anything to do with anything? also, just how light are they?

thanks guys. i dont have any snaps, but im gonna look for some next time im out. till then i think im just gonna learn the rapala knot and use that.

yes i did read that article. it was very helpful. but it just said to spay that anti corrosive stuff on the reel, it didnt say where specifically, do you put it on the bearings?

thanks for the info every one. Raul, that was very helpful. i guess i would be better off getting a 7ft. M F for weightless plastics. as for the rods, i think the LT looks more comfortable than the AS what with that specially contoured handle. it looks much more awsome too so i guess the only way to know how sensative a rod is is thru experience right? cuz i always thought the higher the IM the more sensitive. but thats not always true is it? this is such a delema :-/. btw, the allstar rod that i'd get has 8 guides + tip, and the daiwa rod just says 7 guides, so im assuming that means 7 + tip, but i dont know.

i saw that post about the light and tough and thats a sweet looking rod. looks very comfortable. i had already pretty much made up my mind on that team allstar IM10, but now that got me thinkin. so, which would be better for light weightlss plastics, jigs, cranks, and spinnerbaits? also, the light and tough doesnt come in a 7ft MH F, which really sucks. but do you think MH F is a good power for the techniques listed above? also, the team all star has IM-10 graphite, but the team daiwa only has IM-6 (the lowest), but it claims that the "power mesh" adds sensativity. which is a more sensative rod?

thanks a bunch dave. so after i fish in brackish i should take the spool out and soak it in freshwater and spray the insides out? what kind of corrosion inhibitors should i use and where should i apply them?