I'm picking up a jon boat/trailer at the end of the week (W00T!) and I need a ball mount. I've got a Trailblazer with a 2" receiver.

 

Swung by a local O'Reilly's yesterday and was a bit overwhelmed by all the different types/brands.

 

Is there an advantage/disadvantage to buying a combo kit with the ball already bolted down to the shank? Something like this:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-21536-Towing-Starter/dp/B0016C3STQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413380150&sr=8-1&keywords=ball+hitch

 

I've read some reviews about the bolts being cranked so hard they were near impossible to remove. But is there ever a reason to remove the ball?

 

Any tips would be appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance!

The Reese is the kind that I use.  My trailer needs a ball with a long neck for easy hookup so I always buy separately.

 

Be sure that you get the correct size ball for your trailer (1 7/8 or 2" are the standards).

Just get the right size ball, and the right drop or lift so that the trailer runs level.  The last two are more important than whether the ball is bolted on or not. The last boldface part is probably the #1 thing I see wrong on rigs.

Just get the right size ball, and the right drop or lift so that the trailer runs level.  The last two are more important than whether the ball is bolted on or not. The last boldface part is probably the #1 thing I see wrong on rigs.

 

may take a few guesses to get the right one. it is a really a custom fit,to the vehicle deal. i run drop 6" on my dodge 2500 4x4,my dad runs flat on his 2x4 dodge 3500 and my brother in law runs up 8" on his kayak trailer behind a mazda 3 hatch back.

 

single axle you don't notice much. ran to high a hitch with our dual axle utility trail awhile and ate the rear tires up.

 

never really thought about the how the ball is mounted, but a locking pin is a good idea.

People have been known to tack weld the ball to the mount or the nut to the ball to prevent theft. Removing the ball is a non issue unless you have multiple trailers that take different size balls. The ball mounts do get stuck in the receivers if they are not removed regularly. Again, a non issue unless you are going to tow a different trailer. I've seen them stuck so bad torches, sledge hammers and even a forklift were unable to remove them from the receiver. 

may take a few guesses to get the right one. it is a really a custom fit,to the vehicle deal. i run drop 6" on my dodge 2500 4x4,my dad runs flat on his 2x4 dodge 3500 and my brother in law runs up 8" on his kayak trailer behind a mazda 3 hatch back.

 

single axle you don't notice much. ran to high a hitch with our dual axle utility trail awhile and ate the rear tires up.

 

never really thought about the how the ball is mounted, but a locking pin is a good idea.

 

What's to guess?  Put a level on the trailer, and jack it to level.  Back your truck up, and get a close estimate.  If the tongue weight drops your tow vehicle so much that it's not level, something's not right with the tow vehicle.  I'd say my truck drops less than an inch from the tongue weight.

Just get the right size ball, and the right drop or lift so that the trailer runs level.  The last two are more important than whether the ball is bolted on or not. The last boldface part is probably the #1 thing I see wrong on rigs.

 

Yup, you answered the #1 concern.

 

Only thing I would add is to get in the habit of removing the hitch when it isn't needed.  Those darn things will rust right into the receiver if they are left in.

 

Only thing I would add is to get in the habit of removing the hitch when it isn't needed.  Those darn things will rust right into the receiver if they are left in.

 

 

And man will your shins thank you!

 

Jeff

It punishes people who try to peek in your bed.  It's also a parking lot weapon.  LOL.

I run one of these

 

But I also pull multiple trailers so I have a use for it. If all you're going to pull is your boat, figure out the drop you need and get a regular drop hitch. I'd get a locking pin too, hitches seem to grow legs and walk off

I keep it in!!

 

Nobody will tap the back in a parking lot withot a big dent lol

Perhaps of interest...

 

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/trailer-hitch.html

Perhaps of interest...

 

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/trailer-hitch.html

Glenn has a few other videos on trailers that are worth a look, also. Trailers are one of the easiest things to overlook when it comes to boating, but it'll come back to bite you if they aren't properly maintained.

If you have a uhaul rental place near you they can help you with the right drop and they sell balls with cotter pin locks so the ball will never come loose.

Thanks everyone. I was lucky and the simplest 2" drop was a perfect fit. Will probably buy a lock set for both the hitch & trailer coupling.

 

Took the boat out yesterday. It was wonderful. And I managed to break the driver's side tail light on the trailer while pulling the boat out. I guess that's why those things are so cheap, huh?

Oh man, I did that same thing probably the third time I launched a boat, more than 20 years ago.

Put on a nice coat of never-seize before you slide it in and it will never be a problem to remove.