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Flurocarbon Tired Of Paying For It

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I have been using Flurocarbon for my Jigs and T Rigs in 8-15ft of water and love the sensitivity I get. The water clarity is about 2 foot so I don't use Flurocarbon for invisibility, just sensitivity. If I were to use 12-15 pound Big Game monofilament, would I get the same sensitivity?

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 Braided line & the leader of your choice will provide you all the sensitivity when fishing jigs & T-Rigs you could ask for.

 

A-Jay

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If you really want to save money, go with copolymer. Its the perfect mix between sensitivity and affordability.

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I have been using Flurocarbon for my Jigs and T Rigs in 8-15ft of water and love the sensitivity I get. The water clarity is about 2 foot so I don't use Flurocarbon for invisibility, just sensitivity. If I were to use 12-15 pound Big Game monofilament, would I get the same sensitivity?

No but if u go with yo-zuri hybrid (12 bucks 600yds), the difference would be negligible. But braid with a yz leader would be better IMO.

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 Braided line & the leader of your choice will provide you all the sensitivity when fishing jigs & T-Rigs you could ask for.

 

A-Jay

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No

And as good as braid is, it also cannot match the slack line sensitivity fluoro has. Neither can copoly

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Don't fill the spool then.  When I was using floro for dropshotting, I'd only put on 50 yards at a time over mono backer.  When it got too short or too messed up, I'd strip off what was left of the floro and put 50 more yards on.  way cheaper than filling the spool every time you need new line.

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No

And as good as braid is, it also cannot match the slack line sensitivity fluoro has. Neither can copoly

 

^^^ This ^^^  Most filler spools will fill 2 reels (use cheap backing line), and the line is usually good for the entire season. I don't see it as much of a cost issue unless you're filling up an entire arsenal of reels. Do what's best for you though.

 

-T9

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No

And as good as braid is, it also cannot match the slack line sensitivity fluoro has. Neither can copoly

 

Here we go . . . .

 

And as good as Fluorocarbon is,  it cannot match the knot strength of braid, Mono or copoly . . . . .

 

A-Jay

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Here we go . . . .

 

And as good as Fluorocarbon is,  it cannot match the knot strength of braid, Mono or copoly . . . . .

 

A-Jay

I'm sick of all the fluorocarbon myths being passed as facts. I really need to post all the research I've done, the truths about it's properties characteristics etc, it's not the magical line that it's represented as.

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I'm sick of all the fluorocarbon myths being passed as facts. I really need to post all the research I've done, the truths about it's properties characteristics etc, it's not the magical line that it's represented as.

 

I hear ya -  but it's still pretty good stuff; especially the higher end products.

 

 I don't use it but do enjoy the back & forth banter quite a bit.

 

:eyebrows:

 

A-Jay

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Braid with a leader woud most likely be your best bet especially since visability is not a problem. Personally I prefer flurocarbon because the invisibilty property of it gives me a lot of confidence. I go back and forth with braid and flurocarbon but I usually end up getting frustrated with braid because I seem to always backlash with braid but almost never with flurocarbon or a copoly. Just experiment with different lines and see which one you prefer.

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No

And as good as braid is, it also cannot match the slack line sensitivity fluoro has. Neither can copoly

 

do you fish often with a slack line?  i know i try not to have a slack line, especially when the bait is paused.  and even if it is slack, unless it is a ton of slack, i.e. it wouldn't matter because you couldn't set the hook anyways, i have found that the sensitivity of braid is easily viewed and felt as there is virtually no stretch to take up as they take the bait.

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Most of my fish that I catch pitching hits it on the initial fall. Floro gives me much better sensitivity on the fall than any other type of line. I'll stick to floro

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Gander has 400yds for 20 dollars, its made by sunline

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Kinda a forum hack... I know we talked Co-Poly earlier... But what are opinions on P-Line CX? Would it make a good replacement for Fluorocarbon either straight spooled or as a leader?

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Kinda a forum hack... I know we talked Co-Poly earlier... But what are opinions on P-Line CX? Would it make a good replacement for Fluorocarbon either straight spooled or as a leader?

I got a spool free with a zillion that I bought. I had never used it before but I used it for jig fishing and I had no problems detecting bites on a football jig. 12lb test. It seems like great all purpose line. I've used hybrid before tho.

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I got a spool free with a zillion that I bought. I had never used it before but I used it for jig fishing and I had no problems detecting bites on a football jig. 12lb test. It seems like great all purpose line. I've used hybrid before tho.

Ok thanks for the price I will try it out for 8 bones in not to worried.

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Here we go . . . .

 

And as good as Fluorocarbon is,  it cannot match the knot strength of braid, Mono or copoly . . . . .

 

A-Jay

 

So for starters, I should have included "in my experience" of like wording since I'm just stating my opinion...

 

Personally I've not experienced any issues with knot strength during my fluoro use.  But if this problem is prevalent then I would say you can learn alternative knots that are more effective for different lines to overcome this problem.  But on the other hand, you cannot change the properties and performance of the line so to me, any knot strength issues with fluoro can be worked around, but there's nothing that can be done to make mono/co-poly as sensitive as fluoro in my hands.

 

do you fish often with a slack line?  i know i try not to have a slack line, especially when the bait is paused.  and even if it is slack, unless it is a ton of slack, i.e. it wouldn't matter because you couldn't set the hook anyways, i have found that the sensitivity of braid is easily viewed and felt as there is virtually no stretch to take up as they take the bait.

 

If I'm letting a plastic or jig drop, there's slack.  Also when I'm bumping the bottom with those same techniques, I'm not holding the line very tight so there is always at least a bit of slack unless I'm pulling tight to move the bait.  It's NOT enough slack in the line that a few cranks of the handle before setting the hook cannot solve.

 

But by all means use what you like.  I happen to like fluoro, but if you don't, I ain't mad at ya!  Just seems to me that the OP does recognize improved sensitivy of fluoro (like I do), so my guess is that replacing the fluoro with mono would not result in the same sensitivity.

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I have been using Flurocarbon for my Jigs and T Rigs in 8-15ft of water and love the sensitivity I get. The water clarity is about 2 foot so I don't use Flurocarbon for invisibility, just sensitivity. If I were to use 12-15 pound Big Game monofilament, would I get the same sensitivity?

 

 

No, short answer.  Which FC have you been using? 

 

Big Game is good line but it does not have the sensitivity of FC nor does it last as long.  It is however very cheap.   A good alternative is Yo Zuri hybrid or Seagur Senshi.

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I did find a tatula I had sitting around with 15# Tatsu on it that I never used. Well let me tell you, it is hands down the best line I have ever used. I kind of want to change over a few reels to Tatsu. It can easily last a whole season and $20 a reel is fine with me for what it is.

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So for starters, I should have included "in my experience" of like wording since I'm just stating my opinion...

 

Personally I've not experienced any issues with knot strength during my fluoro use.  But if this problem is prevalent then I would say you can learn alternative knots that are more effective for different lines to overcome this problem.  But on the other hand, you cannot change the properties and performance of the line so to me, any knot strength issues with fluoro can be worked around, but there's nothing that can be done to make mono/co-poly as sensitive as fluoro in my hands.

 

 

If I'm letting a plastic or jig drop, there's slack.  Also when I'm bumping the bottom with those same techniques, I'm not holding the line very tight so there is always at least a bit of slack unless I'm pulling tight to move the bait.  It's NOT enough slack in the line that a few cranks of the handle before setting the hook cannot solve.

 

But by all means use what you like.  I happen to like fluoro, but if you don't, I ain't mad at ya!  Just seems to me that the OP does recognize improved sensitivy of fluoro (like I do), so my guess is that replacing the fluoro with mono would not result in the same sensitivity.

 

 

See - I told ya this was fun . . .

 

A-Jay

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I'm still trying to digest the whole invisible thing..

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