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Jamey803

Line Size And Knots For Light Texas Rigs?

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I've been using 12 and 15lb Berkley 100%FC for texas rigs from 3/16 up to 1/2 oz but i have broken off a few fish on hook sets recently and its really got me thinking..

i bought some 16lb Sunline Sniper today and plan to load up a reel or two with it tomorrow. Just wondering if anyone is using this line for 3/16 T-rigs or if that seems to be a bit too much.

Also wondering about your favorite knots for texas rigs when using tungsten. Ive been using a snell knot on my T-Rigs for a long time but now Im starting to wonder if there might be something better for FC. Just afraid of that tungsten weight beating up my knot. Thoughts?

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First, welcome to BR!

 

Second, Sniper is a MUCH better line so that should be a nice upgrade there. I am assuming that you are using Sniper as your main line and not as a leader while using braid? I use an improved clinch knot for everything and can get the knot to hold strong. Been using this type of not for too many years to count and I use it for every line type and technique to attach my hook to my line. You may want to check the inside of your weights to see if they are fraying your line. Tungsten weights generally are sold with and without inserts. Depending upon the quality of the weight and style that may be fraying your line. Also I wouldn't rule out Rock or Zebra muscles as a possible culprit for line fray.

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You've got to be fishing some pretty gnarly stuff to break off that much on a hookset with 15# fluoro. Especially trilene. Their diameter is thicker than just about everyone else's fluoro. If you are just fishing moderate cover, I'd say it's your knot. Make sure you wet your knots and check your line every so often.

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You've got to be fishing some pretty gnarly stuff to break off that much on a hookset with 15# fluoro. Especially trilene. Their diameter is thicker than just about everyone else's fluoro. If you are just fishing moderate cover, I'd say it's your knot. Make sure you wet your knots and check your line every so often.

Yeah. Mostly fishing super thick brush this time of year.

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16# sniper is probably about as low as I would go. 20# wouldn't be out of the question if cover is that thick.

Trilene 100% isn't bad, but sniper is hard to beat in that price range.

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16# sniper is probably about as low as I would go. 20# wouldn't be out of the question if cover is that thick.

Trilene 100% isn't bad, but sniper is hard to beat in that price range.

Sounds about right. Ive never used the sunline before but the berkley stuff is so thick that I can't use anything over 15 for lighter rigs. Maybe the sunline will be the solution to my problem.

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If you check your line and wet your knots, three no reason you should break off on a hookset. Wetting your knots with fluoro is very important. It will burn itself if you don't. I've pulled a few 5# plus bass out of lily pads this year with 16# sniper as a leader. It's good stuff. You'll like it.

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I use 15# Berkley Big Game for the simple reason it is more abrasion resistant than any fluorocarbon.

I've used a Palomar knot for 40 plus years with zero issues.

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Palomar knot as well.  It is a strong one.

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I personally would not want to cast a 3/16oz jig with 16# Sniper.My experience has been that using a heavier weight helps in casting FC but maybe you will have more success throwing lighter weights with a heavier pound test FC than I do.

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I use 20# shooter on 3/16oz-3/4oz trigs all the time. No issues. I fish a lot of wood and rock

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Sounds like something is off if you're snapping off on a hook set. The only times I've snapped on a hook set have been on a northern or musky and that's because they have razor sharp teeth. I have snapped a few times when I've forgotten to check my line and it gets nicked but it's usually some pretty tough stuff. 

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I use 16lb Sniper for almost everything. I always tie a San Diego Jam knot and have not had a single failure.

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Berkeley 100% FC 12 lb test is .013 diameter, Sunline Super Sniper FC 16 lb test is .013 diameter.

The sliding sinker shouldn't damage a snell knot, however tungsten weight can have sharp hole edges, make sure yours don't!

I use a tempered glass faceted bead between my sliding bullet weight and hook with T-rigged soft plastics, brass & glass and painted weights, don't like tungsten!

I use the SD jam knot with FC line, easy to tie good knots. FC line isn't knot friendly line, the reason so many different knots are suggested!

Trilene Big Game and Maxima Ultra green are very abrasion resistant mono lines that work very good in brush. Sunline 16 lb Sniper will work good, I don't recommend using a Palomar knot with FC, too easy to damage the line cinching it tight.

Tom

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I use 16lb Sniper for almost everything. I always tie a San Diego Jam knot and have not had a single failure.

Ditto...

Don't know why I waited so long to switch.

Mike

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It's odd...the fluoro I "learned on" is Berkley 100% Fluoro and I NEVER had a knot failure or one of those mysterious line failures.  Granted as others have said, it's thicker than other brands' similarly rated line so I guess you can say it's more forgiving in that regard.  I use a Palomar knot exclusively, and the very large majority of my T-rig fishing with the 12 lb Berkley was 3/16 oz weight.

 

This year I bought a few spools of Sniper and I have already had 2 line/knot failures.  I'm certainly not giving up on the Sniper just yet, but in my experience, if you're having issues breaking the Berkley I think you'll see MORE instances with the Sniper.

Moral of the story is to identify the issue and fix the underlying problem.  Knick in the guide, poor knot tying, line is fraying and you're not checking/retying enough, etc.  I don't think the line is the culprit here.

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With single filament lines like monofilament knot strength, abrasion resistance is all about diameter, compare line by diameter not the label pound test. Look at Sunline Sniper diameter verses Trilene FC, 20 lb test Sniper is smaller diameter (.0146) then 15 lb Trilene FC (.0150). Forget about calling Trilene thick line and use equal diamters and you will find that Sunline is far superior in every aspect.

Tom

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Simply put....failures at the knot are just a case of a poorly tied knot. It has nothing to do with the line. Some lines are just harder to tie a good knot with but it isn't the fault of the line, its the fault of the person tying the knot. Have I had knot failure? You bet. Was it my fault? ABSOLUTELY!!!

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Prior to FC line becoming popular how many knots did bass anglers tie? Improved Clinch knot, Trilene knot and Palomar knot because they worked.

Having tested knots for decades I can tell you how the line yields prior to breaking and the causes; over heating and deformation of the line at the knot. All plastics cold flow under pressure and FC deforms more than nylon, therefor weakens and fails easier at the knot.

To overcome knot failures line manufactures started to use larger diameter line marked with lower test ratings and bass anglers bought into this, calling it thick line. Japanese didn't change line diameters, it isn't honest, they improved the FC line performance.

Tom

PS, got to remember Catt's advice....keep it simple!

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You should be able to tell when you tie a bad knot. Be it a burn or a knot not cinched properly. I always check every knot and have been known to tie 10 knots before I was satisfied lol

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I just started using 16# sunline fx braid with no leader for light t-rigs. So far it's worked great, I am using a Revo MGX and am getting great distance. Palomar knot on everything for me. I went through a stretch where I broke a lot of fluoro on hook sets and realized it was a little slack in the fluoro that was the issue. Fluoro is not able to handle the shock of a hard hook set with any slack. Now I make sure I reel up tight and it's all good

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I just started using 16# sunline fx braid with no leader for light t-rigs. So far it's worked great, I am using a Revo MGX and am getting great distance. Palomar knot on everything for me. I went through a stretch where I broke a lot of fluoro on hook sets and realized it was a little slack in the fluoro that was the issue. Fluoro is not able to handle the shock of a hard hook set with any slack. Now I make sure I reel up tight and it's all good

If your fluoro couldn't take a good hard hook set. Your drag was WAY too tight. I have a buddy who tightens his drag all the way down and the first time he tried a leader hr snapped it on the first fish. Its all about give and take and being familiar with your equipment.

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Simply put....failures at the knot are just a case of a poorly tied knot. It has nothing to do with the line. Some lines are just harder to tie a good knot with but it isn't the fault of the line, its the fault of the person tying the knot. Have I had knot failure? You bet. Was it my fault? ABSOLUTELY!!!

Exactly!

Example: to start tying a Palomar knot you pass the line through the eye twice, at this point if you let the line cross (twist) the one on top will cut through the bottom.

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On 6/16/2015 at 5:59 AM, Catt said:

Exactly!

Example: to start tying a Palomar knot you pass the line through the eye twice, at this point if you let the line cross (twist) the one on top will cut through the bottom.

I learned this lesson the hard way and broke off on a few nice fish.  Floro is much harder for me to see than my copolymer and I had a twist in my knot that caused me to break a few times.  Once I slowed down and looked very closely at my palomar knot, I had no more problems.  Details matter and I will always kick myself for losing fish for something so simple. 

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Cinching the knot slowly with FC and CP also seems to make a big difference. Never just yank the knot down, make it a slow, steady movement. For a lot of knots that use wraps I will often slide the coils down with my fingers while holding the mainline to finish it. This will prevent overlap and twisting. In fact, when I do a SD jam knot, my first move is to actually slide the coil UP towards the little loop the tag line passes through to make sure it is seated properly, then slide the whole thing back down onto the eyelet. Makes it look pretty and ensures it sets perfectly. Key with knots is to never rush, just because you can tie one in 10 seconds doesn't necessarily mean you should do so.

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