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I am going to replace the bunks on my trailer. For those that have replaced them, what did you use. I have read not to use treated 2 x4's because of the copper in them will eat holes in your boat if your boat is aluminum. My aluminum boat is painted, will it still eat holes. Is it best use to use regular wood and paint it. I plan on using regular carpet on what ever wood I use. Any ideas ???

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Don't know about the aluminum issue.

I have a fiberglass boat.

i used treated lumber and bunk carpet.....stapled.

worked great without issue.

 

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While aluminum is susceptible to galvanic corrosion when in contact with copper, I have used treated lumber many times on bunks for aluminum boats with no ill effects. 

Another option might be PVC 2x4's, although I have no experience with these for bunks. 

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When the bunks on my tin boat's trailer needed replaced, I went with Ultimate Bunk Boards. I was nervous at first, because they flex under their own weight, but after a couple years of use they were still going strong with no signs of slowing down. They are slick, so you have to keep the boat hooked up until it's in the water, and strap it down before you pull it out. My Roughneck use to shoot off the trailer like a wet bar of soap. They're suppose to last the life of the boat so if you're planning on keeping it for a long time, I'd look into those for sure. 

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I put ultimate bunk boards on my trailer several years ago.  I think that they work good.    The first year they were real slick.   I guess by now I'm used to how they work.   I  don't detach the strap until the trailer is in the water.   I don't take out unless the boat is properly on the trailer and the front strap is tight.   Given that they are so low maintenance, i.e. they will last until you do something really stupid and break them, they aren't that expensive.   Compared to wooden bunk board and carpet - they are pretty expensive.   If anyone has bunk board issues, they are worth checking out, decide for yourself if they are worth the money to you.

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Replacing the boards with cedar with carpet stapled and glued while having the trailer repainted.

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Speaking of bunks.  Be sure to check the fasteners on the bunks periodically.  This past spring, after launching the boat I noticed that one of the bunks was out of place.  The lag bolt had fallen out, and several others had worked loose.  I replaced them all with stainless lag bolts one size larger.

Had forgotten about that until I saw this thread.  I've put check bunk fasteners on my to do list before using the boat this spring.

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9 hours ago, Bluebasser86 said:

When the bunks on my tin boat's trailer needed replaced, I went with Ultimate Bunk Boards. I was nervous at first, because they flex under their own weight, but after a couple years of use they were still going strong with no signs of slowing down. They are slick, so you have to keep the boat hooked up until it's in the water, and strap it down before you pull it out. My Roughneck use to shoot off the trailer like a wet bar of soap. They're suppose to last the life of the boat so if you're planning on keeping it for a long time, I'd look into those for sure. 

These sound good. I can see unloading would be easy but how about when you load it up. Looks like when you drive it on it would keep sliding back. These would really help in the small lake where I can't use my outboard to load it. I have to pull it on my trailer with a rope which is a pain.

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I don't think you'd have an issue using treated wood for bunks as long as you put carpet on them. That way the wood isn't actually touching the hull. 

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16 hours ago, tander said:

These sound good. I can see unloading would be easy but how about when you load it up. Looks like when you drive it on it would keep sliding back. These would really help in the small lake where I can't use my outboard to load it. I have to pull it on my trailer with a rope which is a pain.

You can do it one of two ways in my experience with them. One is to run the boat onto the trailer and then crank it down under power before it's pulled out. The other is to back it in so just the very back of the trailer is in the water and run it up onto the trailer until the front is on the hopefully still dry portion so that it doesn't slide back off. My old boat was easy to climb in and out of so I usually opted for the former (which is obviously even easier with a second person). There were times, such as river fishing trips, when I went with the latter and it worked just fine as well.

To me, they were a very worthy investment.

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Blue, you talked me into it. Just ordered some. Looking forward to installing them and trying them out. :D

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Where did you guys order your bunk carpet? I have one that's going bad but only need a small amount...

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Just did mine,,,used galvanized hardware for attaching the bunks. Also, used outdoor carpet from Lowes, glued and used galvanized staples with treated lumber. Fairly easy job and also installed (from Academy) those plastic bunk covers (4-5 on each side spaced out) to facilitate loading and unloading...good luck

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4 minutes ago, cosburg said:

Just did mine,,,used galvanized hardware for attaching the bunks. Also, used outdoor carpet from Lowes, glued and used galvanized staples with treated lumber. Fairly easy job and also installed (from Academy) those plastic bunk covers (4-5 on each side spaced out) to facilitate loading and unloading...good luck

Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~

A-Jay

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Got the Ultimate Bunks in and installed on my boat today. I think they are going to work great. Thank you Blue for the suggestion.

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As much as my boat is on and off the trailer during a season, I have had to do my bunk boards several times in the last 10 years. I K.I.S.S.....2 new treated 2x4's cut to length, new lengths of carpet form the local Marina, new lag bolts, and just standard staples...no glue. I have never had an issue with the staples rusting/breaking/etc....I wear the top off the carpet before I have to worry about it. Takes me 1/2 hour to make them, and I change them right in the parking lot of the boat ramp after the boats in the water. 10 minute job tops.....That is if I remembered to bring all the tools.

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I replaced bunk boards on my first old aluminum fishing boat and then on my last bass boat (Fiberglass Javelin)  I used treated 2x4 and bunk carpet from BPS.  No issues except be sure and use Stainlees steel or Monel staples or they will rust our fairly fast ( a couple of years) and you will be under there re-stapling.

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