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     I use Envirotex lite epoxy as well, I was wondering how many coats you put on?I put 1 but sometimes it doesnt work out, and from the looks of it all of yours are perfect!

 

Also,Your lures are really impressive! ( hope mine can look like that someday!):grin:

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  • Baitmaker
    Baitmaker

    Thanks everyone for the interest and nice comments on my baits. Here are some new ones I recently finished for a member. 

  • Thank you all for the kind words. I really appreciate it.  And yes Buckeye Ron, they work very well.  As long as the weighting and hook and line ties are perfectly centered they have no choice bu

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4 hours ago, AllDayBASSIN said:

     I use Envirotex lite epoxy as well, I was wondering how many coats you put on?I put 1 but sometimes it doesnt work out, and from the looks of it all of yours are perfect!

 

Also,Your lures are really impressive! ( hope mine can look like that someday!):grin:

Thanks guys. 

I use Envirotex slightly thinned with denatured alcohol to seal my baits prior to painting. After a minimum of 24 hour drying time I sand them with 400 grit to remove any high spots and give them a coat of sealer white to help the paint stick better. After painting I normally use 2 top coats of the Envirotex, unless it's a musky bait which get more. 

Thanks I will try this, it should work, I mean look at all of your beautiful lures!

  • Author
23 hours ago, AllDayBASSIN said:

Thanks I will try this, it should work, I mean look at all of your beautiful lures!

Thanks again. Also wanted to mention that these are done using a rotisserie drying wheel in case you didn't know. A must for slow set epoxy. 

Your original post you say you make rattling squarebills out of cedar. How are you getting rattles in them?? Or did I read that incorrectly.

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7 hours ago, Bulletman20XD said:

Your original post you say you make rattling squarebills out of cedar. How are you getting rattles in them?? Or did I read that incorrectly.

Yes that's correct. These pictures may help. It's just a matter of drilling a hole all the way thru the bait large enough for a single ball bearing to pass thru. Then I make a recess area with a spade bit for the end caps to set in slightly below flush. The end caps can be made out of metal like the picture shows (brass), but now I prefer to use circuit board material as it's easy to cut and shape, and produces a lower frequency knocking sound. They get patched over with epoxy putty and sanded smooth. 

Most rattle baits have a chamber that runs lengthwise along the belly. As they are pulled along at a fast retrieve, the rattles are forced to the rear and don't produce as much sound. These side to side single ball rattlers knock with every wiggle at any speed.

 

rattle bait.jpe

rattle bait3.jpe

rattle crank.jpe

Over time, do the rattles start to crack the epoxy and paint trying to work themselves out with the side to side action of the bait?? I'm just asking because I am interested in finding someone who makes a quality wooden squarebill. I like the deep thud a ball in a wooden crank makes. All the ones I had from years ago are all broken and useless. I've seen a few made in that manner do just as I described.

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23 hours ago, Bulletman20XD said:

Over time, do the rattles start to crack the epoxy and paint trying to work themselves out with the side to side action of the bait?? I'm just asking because I am interested in finding someone who makes a quality wooden squarebill. I like the deep thud a ball in a wooden crank makes. All the ones I had from years ago are all broken and useless. I've seen a few made in that manner do just as I described.

So far, I have not experienced any issues with the rattle baits cracking over time. I use JB weld Quickwood epoxy putty on the end caps which is non shrinking so there is no separation once it cures. Other brands that I have tried shrink to some degree and leave a slight halo or crack between the wood and epoxy. They all get sealed in Envirotex prior to paint, and 2 more top coats of the E-tex on the finished bait. 

How deep does your 2.5 size SB run?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author
On 8/26/2017 at 7:59 AM, Bulletman20XD said:

How deep does your 2.5 size SB run?

Sorry for the delayed response. I missed your post. Those SB's run 4- 4 1/2 ft. on average, and can be made to go a bit deeper.   

Cool and what is your price?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
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Here are a couple of musky baits and some squarebill cranks I have made recently. Hope everyone has a great Christmas and a Happy New Year! 

 

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  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Hope you guys are surviving the winter blues. Here are some of my latest wood creations. I would love to see what everyone else has been up to. I'm starting to get the itch pretty bad here in Ohio. It won't be long now!

 

musky bait2.jpg

cranks6.jpg

On ‎2‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 7:56 PM, Baitmaker said:

Hope you guys are surviving the winter blues. Here are some of my latest wood creations. I would love to see what everyone else has been up to. I'm starting to get the itch pretty bad here in Ohio. It won't be long now!

 

musky bait2.jpg

cranks6.jpg

Those look great! I have made a few cedar lures that turned out so-so. Whats the best way to sand them so they look smooth and rounded? The cedar is harder than balsa and kinda difficult to shape correctly.

  • Super User

Everyone is beautiful.

 

Great work!

  • Super User

I can't believe I have not taken the time to view this thread until now.  I ran through all pages and was just amazed, am amazed.  There needs to be some national show for custom baits.  I can see some here that would be best of show.  Wow!!!

21 hours ago, Columbia Craw said:

I can't believe I have not taken the time to view this thread until now.  I ran through all pages and was just amazed, am amazed.  There needs to be some national show for custom baits.  I can see some here that would be best of show.  Wow!!!

you should see them in person. I've got 4 from Baitmaker and they are the best looking and fish catchingest lures I have ever used. is catchingest even a word? LOL....

  • Author
On 2/21/2018 at 2:12 PM, nighthawk25 said:

Those look great! I have made a few cedar lures that turned out so-so. Whats the best way to sand them so they look smooth and rounded? The cedar is harder than balsa and kinda difficult to shape correctly.

Thank you! They require a lot of hand sanding and checking each side with a template for uniformity as you go. 

On 2/21/2018 at 3:10 PM, Sam said:

Everyone is beautiful.

 

Great work!

Thanks for the nice compliment Sam! 

 

On 2/24/2018 at 12:16 AM, Columbia Craw said:

I can't believe I have not taken the time to view this thread until now.  I ran through all pages and was just amazed, am amazed.  There needs to be some national show for custom baits.  I can see some here that would be best of show.  Wow!!!

Much appreciated! Glad you like them. There are shows for custom baits and other wood carving. Some of the work that the top carvers do is mind blowing. I've never been to a show or entered anything, but do like to see the entries online. 

13 hours ago, crypt said:

you should see them in person. I've got 4 from Baitmaker and they are the best looking and fish catchingest lures I have ever used. is catchingest even a word? LOL....

HAHA Crypt! Catchingest should be a word if it isn't already. Thanks for the kind words!

 

Here are a few pictures of baits in progress. The profile shapes are rough cut with a skill saw and finished using a disc and belt sander. The lip slots are cut with a skill saw using a template. For these squarebills, the lip angle is 45 degrees. The material used is Lexan (polycarbonate). Never use plexiglass, as it is brittle and will crack with use.

The most crucial part to making a bait run true, is cutting a square 90 degree lip slot and carving or sanding equal amounts of wood on both sides of center. While the bait is still in block form, a center line is drawn, shown here as an example. I use a compass for marking center. This line should remain visible throughout the entire shaping process. The holes for weights and line ties are drilled on this line. The lip slot is also cut while the bait is square sided to ensure a 90 degree cut. I begin shaping them buy carving with a knife, and then hand sanding. The finish sanding is by far the longest process for me. What wood you remove on one side has to match the other. I make C shaped templates from heavy paper stock to match both sides equally. 

 

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baits in progress.jpg

centerline.JPG

lexan.jpg

  • Author

Here is a video that further explains what I mean about building symmetrical baits. I hope this info might inspire others to start building, or help those who are just getting started. It's a fun, therapeutic hobby, and a great feeling to catch fish on baits that you made from scratch. 

 

  • Author

Besides making my own lips from Lexan, I also like to use circuit board material (fiberglass) and these manufactured lips that are available at lure supply sites online. 

 

 

cranks8.jpg

cranks7.jpg

Im curious as to your tackle making process for your cedar squarebills and crankbaits. I definitely wouldnt mind seeing a start to finish post with details and pictures to see how you come out with such beautiful work.

  • Author

Here are some of the Ohio bass that have been caught on my wood baits. These were all taken from public lakes and rivers. 

 

 

Tom's bass.jpg

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  • Author
40 minutes ago, Fishinthefish said:

Im curious as to your tackle making process for your cedar squarebills and crankbaits. I definitely wouldnt mind seeing a start to finish post with details and pictures to see how you come out with such beautiful work.

Thank you! I have thought about making a detailed tutorial, but have never spent the time to do it. The entire process would take quite a while to sit down and write. It's hard for me at times to explain well enough to convey a clear picture. Taking photos of everything would help, but they would still need explained to a degree. 

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