Been checking out how to rig the drop shot ... a lot of people use braid and Flouro ... can i not use Mono for a drop shot :?

Sure you can. I use braid to a mono leader

2 minutes ago, CroakHunter said:

Sure you can. I use braid to a mono leader

I've never used a leader before is it required to do a drop shot ? i can't tell in some of the videos i'm watching if they are using leaders or just the main line itself

Using mono won't be a problem. I use 10 pound mono for a main line. I then use a barrel swivel and tie on about a 3 foot florocarbon leader.

A leader is not required. I use a leader with the barrel swivel to help stop line twist problems. I should have added my leader is 8 pound floro.

You can use all mono or all fc, all will work.  I use 10# braid with a 5 foot leader of fc,  with fc again below the hook to the sinker.

Mono can be used for anything,  but braid to floro will have less stretch and me more sensitive. So you can use it, but floro is better if you can afford it

I agree with Dropshothotshot that braid is more sensitive and Braid also handles better on a spinning reel.   

I don't understand how line stretch would be a factor in drop shotting, unless you're using heavy rod with the drag locked down.  With the drag set properly on a classic drop shot set up, with an ML spinning rod, how would you even notice any line stretch?

 

You may find you prefer the sensitivitiy or braid or flouro, but mono will do just fine with a drop shot.

Line stretch affects sensitivity.  The big smallies I have got have been very light bites.  

Drop shot rig pre dates modern super braids and fluorocarbon line and worked good.

Mono line was the line of choice for nearly every lure presentation.

Today using small diameter braid on spinning reels with a mono or FC leader is popular in part because the combination helps resolve line twisting issues.

I don't like braid with leaders because 2 knots to fail, prefer using mono or straight FC.

Tom

22 hours ago, Ralph Nicholas Vito said:

Been checking out how to rig the drop shot ... a lot of people use braid and Flouro ... can i not use Mono for a drop shot :?

Absolutely! When I don’t have fc, I use mono. Matter of fact, I’ve been using 6# mono for about the past 4 years. The non-mono are pricey for my rip rap situation when drop shotting. Don’t hesitate to use mono if you want to use it. 

I am with Tom 100% on this.  My dropshot spinning reel is spooled with 6-8lb mono......period.  I wouldn't be against using fluro but in my experience it doesn't behave well on spinning rods.  Most line twist is due to the way your bait is rigged.  If it spins when you retrieve it, there will be twist no doubt.  It is also a problem when you oversize the bait.  I never bought into the braid + leader craze for the same reasons.  More failure points.  I have caught 5lb + smallies on this setup for 15 years on Lake St Clair and plenty of bass here in Virginia.  Since the bait is above the weight in a dropshot presentation I don't need any additional sensitivity with quality gear.  I'm sure Ill be catching a lot of dropshot fish next week on my annual trip to Wisconsin and their clear water.  And the only bait I have ever tied a swivel to is a C-Rig.  Call me old skool.  

I have 0 idea what I’m doing wrong right now i rigged it right ONCE! Now all of a sudden I’ve turned into an idiot and don’t know what to do.... when tying the palomar knot do i pull on BOTH tag and main line to cinch? Or just main or just tag!?!? No one shows that part in tutorials very well

what am i doing wrong ... seriously WTH ! i did it right flipping once now all the stupid hook does is bend down i literally have used almost ALL of my line just trying to get this right ! why am i so stupid ? is it just too hard of a knot to do ? or rig? but i did it right 1 time .... the hook stayed up and everything?

On 8/5/2018 at 2:04 PM, WRB said:

Drop shot rig pre dates modern super braids and fluorocarbon line and worked good

You can correct me if I'm wrong,  but the pre braid drop shot fishing was done in saltwater fishing. If this is true (used this saltwater fishing as a kid) I remember the fish ( Pollack) hammering this bait and sensitivity was not an issue. 

7 hours ago, Ralph Nicholas Vito said:

what am i doing wrong ... seriously WTH ! i did it right flipping once now all the stupid hook does is bend down i literally have used almost ALL of my line just trying to get this right ! why am i so stupid ? is it just too hard of a knot to do ? or rig? but i did it right 1 time .... the hook stayed up and everything?

Tie your palomar knot. Pull the main line and the tag end together to tighten the knot. Take you tag end and run it through the hook eye. Pull the tag end till the knot comes through the hook eye

Personally, I only pull the tag end to cinch because the friction on the line will possibly weaken it and I want that possible failure point on the weight side not above the hook.  Your hook is hanging vertical because you have the bait on it.  If you want to check if your hook is facing the right way after you tie it on put a little pressure on the tag end without your bait and it should stand up.  If it doesn't, run it back through the hook eye from the top.  I Texas rig my DS baits with a #1 EWG hook but that is just me.  I don't like to nose hook DS baits.  

24 minutes ago, TOXIC said:

Personally, I only pull the tag end to cinch because the friction on the line will possibly weaken it and I want that possible failure point on the weight side not above the hook. 

 

I do this too.  In my seminars, my speaking partner Paul would tie up a Palomar on 6# Invisx and only get a little more than 4 lbs. out of the not.  Conversely, I'd tie a Palomar on the same line, and get just over 6 lbs. before it broke.  The lesson was, It's not the line, it's the person tying the line.  I noted the difference was in how each of us cinched the knot.

 

For the OP, think of the DS as a terminal rig.  Any soft plastic bait, any hook/line/sinker can be used.  Make your decision on what to use based off the cover, depth, and bait you're using.

Sounds like this might be a bit contrary, but IMO, if you are tying a Palomar correctly, you pull both lines (main and tag) together and there should be almost zero friction with this knot. It simply cinches up immediately. The only line-lure connecting knot I've ever used with every line type for over 30 years now without a problem.

8 minutes ago, Team9nine said:

Sounds like this might be a bit contrary, but IMO, if you are tying a Palomar correctly, you pull both lines (main and tag) together and there should be almost zero friction with this knot. It simply cinches up immediately. The only line-lure connecting knot I've ever used with every line type for over 30 years now without a problem.

I do this, but the main always cinches before the tag.  I *could* pull the main more, but that always results in a kink before the knot, so I pull the tag.  It's a knot I trust as well.

Would be interesting to compare short video of how we each tie. My main doesn't cinch before tag with any line except braid, and in that instance, I too always pull tag only at that point. But fluor/mono/copoly all just cinch together instantly by pulling both lines equally for me.

I was thinking the same.  I'll try to make time, though it doesn't matter - my knots are pretty strong.

I'll try and do the same. More just curious than anything as text explanations sometimes just aren't ideal. Agree that if a knot works for you, that's all that matters - don't fix it if it ain't broke. Thoroughly whipped a 16 pound buffalo yesterday on 3# braid with a 6# leader and a FG/Palomar knot combo.

 

 

After I happened to catch this video I started tying my Palomars by cinching it on my finger before pulling it to the hook eye.  Turned this knot from something I never used to my new go-to.  When it is cinched around your finger you can even check to make sure the lines are not crossed and fix them if they are.  I have yet to break off at the knot since learning this way.

Great tip on leaving the tag end longer to act as a weed guard!!  I do almost the same thing with my finger but I additionally grab the head of the shakey head so that my fingers are up to the bottom of the hook eye.  That keeps the line from cinching on the shaft of hookeye instead of itself.  On a dropshot, in order to reduce the amount of line the knot has to travel down to the hook eye, I pull it down loosely on the hookeye with my fingers positioned like I explained on the shakeyhead to keep it from cinching on the shaft and to also eliminate a long pull of line from the tag end.  Flyfishing taught me that to keep from wasting a lot of tippet when you retie.  

Good point by  J Francho, as is true with just about any presentation, line size and type should be adjusted based on numerous factors.  Some of those factors would be: fishing depth, density of cover, type of cover, water clarity, target species, size of the bait, and specifications of the rod/reel you are using.  

 

The majority of my personal dropshot fishing is used in deep clear water reservoirs or lakes with sparse cover, targetting smallmouth.  My typical setup for this is a 7'6 MLXF spinning rod, size 2500 Stradic, spooled with 10lb braid topped off with a 30 foot leader of 6lb tatsu.  I then use a size 1 or size 2 gammy dropshot hook, and a 1/8 thru 1/4oz weight.  Generally I use about a 6" dropper for the weight, but I will go down to as little as 4" and as much as 18". 6-8" on the dropper is usually the sweet spot for me, shorter if the fish are more aggressive and longer if they are really sluggish.

 

I use a crazy Alberto knot for the line to leader, than a palomar for the drop shot knot itself.  Sometimes the Palomar takes a couple of attempts to get a finished product I'm happy with.  I used to use the swivel shot hooks which did a great job in eliminating line twist, but I felt that the extra metal might be costing me a few bites and I lost a good smallmouth because the swivel bent out on one of those hooks.   Probably had my drag too tight but still a frustrating way to lose a nice fish.  I fish the whole setup with very light drag, probably about 1.5lbs of drag pressure and I adjust it up or down from there as needed.