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VinnyR

Reel for inshore + heavy cover

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I'm trying to find a casting reel for my irod "Fred's magic stick" heavy rod, which I've used mostly for inshore fishing with small swimbaits, but recently started using for frogs and punching too. I've had a black max on it for two years (my first baitcaster, somehow still works fine despite use in saltwater) and i'm past due for something smoother and stronger.

 

Daiwa coastal

Daiwa tatula CT type R

Abu Garcia Revo AL-F

 

I know I can't go wrong with the coastal. Is the CT also good for saltwater use, with only 2 of the bearings "corrosion resistant"?  And then I see the Revo has "HPCR" bearings which are supposedly corrosion resistant -- does that hold up in saltwater?

 

Wondering if saving a few bucks with the CT over the coastal would end up biting me after a few months. And I saw a good deal on a used Revo so that piqued my interest too because it's so lightweight and cheaper than the coastal. But I'm still relatively new to casting gear and it's confusing. Pointers are much appreciated!

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That Coastal is a good looking reel. I considered this one also. 

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i have the coastal and the revo inshore. my personal opinion the upgraded bearings make a difference. i have a regular tatula i used and that is starting to get a little rough so if you are concerned about longevity i would get the inshore reels. i also used a lews for a season and that went pretty fast. you can get coastals for about 160 on amazon and also on ebay.

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A new Daiwa Coastal SV was introduced at ICAST, I'm not sure when it will be released but it should be an upgrade over the current model. It also might make the current model go on clearance. 

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Revo Inshore. Add carbontex drags. Greased for smooth, ungreased for more power.

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i want to add that the new sv only has 2 ccrb which i assume are at the most crucial points vs 7 ccrbs for the coastal tws. that made me shy away from the sv unless you are going to be casting light light lures, which in the salt i doubt, i think it negates the advantages of the sv. plus i like the knobs of the older handle so that is another point of consideration.

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7 hours ago, raoka said:

i want to add that the new sv only has 2 ccrb which i assume are at the most crucial points vs 7 ccrbs for the coastal tws. that made me shy away from the sv unless you are going to be casting light light lures, which in the salt i doubt, i think it negates the advantages of the sv. plus i like the knobs of the older handle so that is another point of consideration.

Thanks, so do you think with the coastal I'd struggle with light lures? Inshore I'm usually throwing 3-4" swimbaits on 3/8-1/2 oz lead heads (sometimes even 1/4 but already getting no casting distance there, which is fine). In freshwater, 1/2 oz frogs (already a little hard to cast) and heavier T rigs.

 

Although, currently this is with a black max I've used for a couple of years in the salt, so maybe anything will be a step up from what I have now and I should just get the one that was made to handle saltwater

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i dont think so. ive done 1/2 oz with no issue. still has the magforce cast control so you can dial it in pretty well. i like to think of it as a tatula on steroids.

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When you say inshore in SoCal what are you trying catch Calico bass, Sand bass ?

Are you set on a low profile reel?

IROD IRG 754F isn't a light weight rod it's over 5 oz's, reels anywhere between 10 to 11 oz balance perfectly.

Shimano Tranx and Calcutta reels are made for salt water, oversize drags and precision gears for fast strong fish. If the Tranx or Calcutta are too expensive the Cardiff 300A balances nicely and OK for salt water if you care for it.

Tom

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I have a Diawa Coastal TWS and love it.  Bass fishing I use it for deep crank baits, with 12 pound Big game line.  For snook, jack cravalle, and rooster fish I prefer 30 lbs. braid.  I have used it on three different rods, casting lures anywhere from 3/8 oz to 2 oz.  on the right rod it casts light lures almost as far as my Tatula CT and has enough line capacity to land jacks and Roosters in the 25 pound class.  I would prefer a spinning reel with more line capacity fishing from the beach, but inshore fishing from a boat it works great.  Very smooth, great drag, casts a mile, and has held up well.  I'm sure higher priced Diawa or Shimano reels are better,  but it is more than enough reel for the bass and inshore fishing I have done.

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49 minutes ago, WRB said:

When you say inshore in SoCal what are you trying catch Calico bass, Sand bass ?

Spotties mostly, and smaller calicos in the bay. Shallow water. Considering getting a big kayak and fishing the kelp forest but not getting too far ahead of myself here, right now I'm on the jetties and in the marinas

 

51 minutes ago, WRB said:

Are you set on a low profile reel?

IROD IRG 754F isn't a light weight rod it's over 5 oz's,

Good point about the rod. So I guess I shouldn't care about the weight. I do care about the size though and I am fairly set on a low profile because I want to use the same setup for topwater frogs and walking baits where I'm actively moving the rod a lot and want it to be comfortable in my hand. Line capacity isn't too important. 

 

Tranx seems really similar to the coastal, but I see some new coastals on eBay for $160, which is 40 less than a new tranx 200, so I think I'm going coastal unless I'm missing something about the shimanos 

 

Appreciate all the replies, thanks guys

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I know you wasn't looking at Lew's, but their Inshore looks like a good reel also.  It's lighter, brass gears, 20lb drag system. 

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9 minutes ago, FrankN209 said:

I know you wasn't looking at Lew's, but their Inshore looks like a good reel also.  It's lighter, brass gears, 20lb drag system. 

Who needs 20 lbs of drag when the rod these reels are used break under 8 lbs of drag.

Unless you live in SoCal you don't know anything about Spotted bay bass, a big spotted bay bass is 3 lbs!

Tom

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Vinny, I've fished a TON of inshore, spotties, sandies, checkers, and a couple of flatties, and a healthy 6 lb white seabass at Newport harbor. We always used our freshwater gear. The seabass I caught was on a mh Clarus 7' and a older shimano Chronarch. Keep in mind I was float tubing the local harbors at least 2 to 4 times a week. I always rinsed my reels/line and rods off with fresh water. Once a week the reels, which included a lowly Sahara 2500 spinning reel, got cleaned with some Reel Scrubber. All my reels went in for service about once every month to a month and a half. In the 3 years of doing the above, never had any issues with any of my gear, nor did my fishing friends. I did have the drags upgraded o my Chronarch and both of my Curado's. 

Save your $$ on the inshore specific stuff and use what you would for freshwater.  BTW the seabass was caught on the Clarus mh with 8lb Yozuri hybrid line, those fish fight Hard and long. Hope this helps some.    

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Don't need 20 lbs of drag to fight spotted bay bass, but I'm usually in the rocks so the strong drag comes in handy when I'm hung up. But yeah, definitely don't need 20 lbs. The daiwa's 15.4 is enough.

 

More important thing is to reel smoothly against a fighting fish, which my cheap reel struggles with, and I think any of these will be a nice upgrade. That + durability in the salt. And price

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59 minutes ago, Hammer 4 said:

All my reels went in for service about once every month to a month and a half

Doesn't this cost add up though? If it's 160 for a new reel that won't need service as often, vs 100-120 for a comparable reel without the salt-friendly parts but will need to be serviced a lot, I'd rather save the hassle.

 

That's pretty cool re the seabass. I caught a baby, less than a pound I think, on my first ever cast with a baitcaster (obviously a huge rats nest) into marina del Rey a couple years ago. Never caught another one though

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Well, back then it was about 35.00 for a full service, so yeah today's cost may be a bit much. Are you throwing Big Hammer's..? Cuz for spotties and sandies LMB lures will work, i.e. craw's and creature baits, fished by them selves or on a jig, heck I've caught spotties on roboworms..and 4" Kalin grubs.

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8 hours ago, WRB said:

Who needs 20 lbs of drag when the rod these reels are used break under 8 lbs of drag.

Unless you live in SoCal you don't know anything about Spotted bay bass, a big spotted bay bass is 3 lbs!

Tom

Not true, but ok...

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3 hours ago, FrankN209 said:

Not true, but ok...

Try lifting 8 lbs of weight with your favorite bass rod, simple a gallonn jug of water is about 8 lbs. let me know how that works out for you.

Tom

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9 hours ago, Hammer 4 said:

Are you throwing Big Hammer's

Yeah almost exclusively haha, if I can't get a bite I'll throw a curly tail grub on the lead head instead and every now and then that works, or I get a sculpin. 

 

I have this one spot where I throw a football jig with a grub and consistently get bites but no hookups. I think it's from big sandies. Do you get bigger fish on the grubs? I get a ton of bites on the big hammers so I haven't tried too many other things 

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More bites on grubs, but not bigger fish.

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Try a Scrounger jig it was invented* for SoCal bay, jetty and surf fishing.

Tom

* John Waters, San Clemente 

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6 hours ago, WRB said:

Try lifting 8 lbs of weight with your favorite bass rod, simple a gallonn jug of water is about 8 lbs. let me know how that works out for you.

Tom

What does lifting 8lbs have to do with drag? Drag is for tiring out fish and lifting them with your hands smh. And if you're saying you can't real in a an 8lber with a MH or H rod, .....

 

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1 hour ago, Jrob78 said:

The Tackle Trap just got the Coastal SV in today.

Coastal sv seems perfect but about $100 more than I wanted to spend. So I ordered the regular coastal 200.

 

I got a tatula 100 the other day and it's so tiny it's almost cute! So I figure the larger coastal 200 (supposed to be the profile of a 150 with a 200 spool, or something like that) will be fine for what I'm looking for, maybe even better balance and fit for my heavy rod 

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