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No-Gap Transom Replacement?


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Hey all,

Question - I've sprung a small leak in the back of my 14' jon boat. I'm going to do a transom replacement and re-seal everything. Instead of taking the transom brace out of the bottom of the boat (and removing solid rivets) I'm going to remove the top back plate and reattach it later. This would allow me to slide the new transom straight down into the back of the boat. That would also allow me to cut the new transom flush with the bottom and sides of the boat... but everywhere I look, guys are not doing this. They intentionally leave "play" or space in the bottom and sides. 

 

Is there any reason to do this, aside from just making it slightly easier to work with?

 

I feel like a transom that was flush with the edges would actually improve the overall strength of the boat. 

 

What do you think?

 

EDIT: I did just look... it might be easier to do this if I remove the transom brace after all... but I'm not sure I want to mess with that... on the fence. There is a folded-over lip on the real aluminum above where the transom board mounts that doesn't come off. Any ideas / input would be much appreciated. 

 

Thanks!  

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Looking at that I think what you’re proposing is a lot of work depending on where the leak is. If it’s one of the through bolts or rivets, I would just deal with that bolt/river with something like gluvit or a sealing adhesive. My free advice comes with a 100% money back guarantee. Where’s the leak?

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1 hour ago, VolFan said:

My free advice comes with a 100% money back guarantee. Where’s the leak?

 

Lol, lovely. Thank you! So I know (think) it's not in the bottom because this weekend I took the floor panels out and put about 3 inches of water inside the boat and it held without dripping anywhere. Drain plug worked just fine as well. It seems to be a slow leak, so I'm wondering if something has worked loose on one or a few of those bolts going through the back?

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6 minutes ago, VolFan said:

... how much water are we talking ?

 

Just underneath the back panel - it's not a lot, but it's enough that I know it's not off of fish and my feet - a slow leak, and it's consistent but it hasn't risen above a half inch or so. I just want to nip 'er in the bud before it becomes an issue.

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  • Global Moderator

Replacing transom is one hell of an undertaking, like fall into the bed with your belt still on and instantly snoring kind of project. I’ve done a couple, cut thru those braces once and just screwed it all back together with way too many screws haha. That wood looks fine in the pics , I definitely like the idea of fixing the leak instead of replacing the wood. Coat the threads of the thru bolts with 3M 5200 or something like that 

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  • Super User

I wouldn't want to risk creating a bigger problem by trying to solve a smaller problem.  I'd look for the source of the leak and see if you can seal it with some silicone-like adhesive.   The wood on that transom looks good to me, and I wouldn't be apt to replacing it until after I identified the source of the leak and confirmed that replacing the transom would actually fix the problem beyond what some sealant could do.  

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  • Global Moderator

Since that brace appears bolted in I guess it wouldn’t be terribly tricky just takes a while. Also if you ever decide to replace the one, coat the new piece with sheets of fiberglass and lots of resin 

 

im guessing the reason they leave a gap at the bottom is so it’s not sitting in a puddle while fishing in the rain . Sides you would think the bigger the stronger 

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On 9/5/2023 at 3:12 PM, TnRiver46 said:

im guessing the reason they leave a gap at the bottom is so it’s not sitting in a puddle while fishing in the rain.

 

Oh crap - I didn't even think about that - great point! 

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  • Super User

Lots of bolts that should be sealed with 3M 5200.

Remove every bolt and apply sealant and re tighten.

Tom

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