I've never used fluoro, but I'm thinking about giving it a try for my mainline. I normally fish mono in the 8lb-12lb range. So, if I am using 12lb mono for my application, do I just choose the same pound weight fluoro line?

 

Is there any problem with using fluoro on a mono backer? I use a backer even for mono.

Same lb test and you can use Mono backing

Shop based on diameter. Your 12 lb mono is probably equivalent to 14 or 16 lb (or higher) fluoro.

 

14 lb Sniper (or 12 lb Red Label) at .31 mm diameter is a good starting point.

Fluorocarbon runs thinner than mono. If you run say 12lb mono based on line strength, 12lb fluorocarbon should be generally fine but if you run 12lb instead of 10lb for diameter, you might want to use 16lb fluorocarbon which is still a little thinner than most 12lb mono

For spinning, I wouldn't go much over 8 lbs.  I know a fella that swears by Gamma Touch 9 lb line.  For baitcasters it really doesn't matter.  Use either 12 or 15 lb flourocarbon on your baitcasters.  

Thanks, good to know that fluoro runs smaller for the same test rating.

 

I'm thinking fluoro will give me an edge at a heavy pressure spot I know. But, we'll see. I probably won't do anything until next year and test it during the spring.

Just grab a spool of invizx. And give it a shot. It’s pretty forgiving and easy to work with. It’s not for everyone. But you may really enjoy it! You could always buy a spool of flouro leader real cheap that will do the same thing. Since all you are looking for is the line to be less visible. 

10 minutes ago, Joedodge said:

Just grab a spool of invizx.

If I won't dish out the money for Tatsu - InvizX is my go-to.

17 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

If I won't dish out the money for Tatsu - InvizX is my go-to.

It’s the only flouro I’ve ever tried besides all kinda leader material. I thought it worked well and was manageable. 

I don't normally use braid line for a main, so I'm not sure how well mono would work with a fluoro leader. I know folks do it, but I'm wondering about knot size. I also think that straight fluoro would give an edge vs the main/leader setup regardless of whether the mainline is mono or braid, but especially with braid.

 

I believe that line makes sound under water, and braid makes a louder sound under water than any other. A bunch of amateur bass fishermen use straight braid here but I don't know anyone that uses fluoro. So my thinking is that it'll give me an edge over a huge percentage of other anglers that hit the city lake I fish because almost everyone uses either mono or braid.

 

 

My thinking is that most "serious" bass anglers will use braid. That said, I haven't tried braid for most of my fishing. I have used it a fair amount with my spinning outfits and caught fish at that city lake, but I am pretty careful about my casts and presentation regardless of line.

This can be as complicated as you make it.

Bass; LMB, Smallmouth and Spotted are not line shy fish!

Fluorocarbon line doesn’t increase strike ratio! What FC offers is less drag going through water and it’s heavier than water and sinks. The combined result is better strike detection using bottom bumping lures. What you  

You give up using FC line is knot strength vs diameter of line.

I only use FC for jigs and worms for bottom contact.

Tom

 

5 minutes ago, WRB-2.0 said:

This can be as complicated as you make it.

Bass; LMB, Smallmouth and Spotted are not line shy fish!

Fluorocarbon line doesn’t increase strike ratio! What FC offers is less drag going through water and it’s heavier than water and sinks. The combined result is better strike detection using bottom bumping lures. What you  

give up using FC line is knot strength vs diameter of line.

I only use FC for jigs and worms for bottom contact.

Tom

 

If you were to replace mono with flouro, though, would you replace it with the same diameter or same test strength?

2 minutes ago, WRB-2.0 said:

This can be as complicated as you make it.

Bass; LMB, Smallmouth and Spotted are not line shy fish!

Fluorocarbon line doesn’t increase strike ratio! What FC offers is less drag going through water and it’s heavier than water and sinks. The combined result is better strike detection using bottom bumping lures. What you  

give up using FC line is knot strength vs diameter of line.

I only use FC for jigs and worms for bottom contact.

Tom

 

I don't want it to be complicated, but it gets that way all by itself. The place I'm fishing sees probably 50-100 people fishing over the course of a nice weekend.

 

I agree, that bass aren't line shy... what I think though, is that they hear the sound of the line, and while they still occasionally bite, using the least common type of line will give them a different sound and thus, get more bites.

Try fishing lakes under 2,000 acres with over 100 bass boats daily some with professional guides daily! Line diameter trumps line lb test!

Tom

One reason that I think sound is a factor is because changing to soft split rings has gotten me more bites than using the same crankbaits with standard split rings. Everyone else uses standard split rings and the crankbaits all sound the same, except mine.

 

When I say sound, I also mean hearing/lateral line feeling. I don't know if they hear it, or sense it. When a crankbait goes through the water, it vibrates the bait, but it also vibrates the line to a lesser extent, and this causes a different sound with different types of line. I bet they hear/feel that line in the water.

 

Everyone thinks that fluoro is better because the bass can't see it, but I surmise they can see it and hear it the same as the others, it just sounds different.

 

8 minutes ago, WRB-2.0 said:

Try fishing lakes under 2,000 acres with over 100 bass boats daily some with professional guides daily! Line diameter trumps line lb test!

Tom

I agree, a smaller line is better. This is the lake https://elizabethtownky.org/freeman-lake-park/, look at those 2 ponds on the north end. That's the main area everyone fishes. There is a walking path right up the center and on the dam area between the south end of the ponds and north end of the main lake.

 

I can get bit on the main lake, where I can fish from shore. The accessible areas which is the west side have basically no cover. They cut the trees to make it pretty. So there are less bass there than the east side that is mostly natural, however, the natural side is a mile walk with little casting areas.

 

The reason for fishing this is, my wife and kids and I go to town, we stop at the easy access area and fish an hour while my wife enjoys the bathrooms/portapotty and my kid enjoys the playground. Mowed areas with no bugs and so forth.

 

So... I made it my goal to learn how to get bit where others can't, where the pressure is the most, where it's convenient for me to fish due to family reason. And I do get bit there, with some serious thought and work. I believe it's made me a much better angler as a result too.

We fished mono with flourless for years in saltwater before braid got big. It works just fine. I agree with @WRB-2.0  I don’t think it’s gonna aid in anymore strikes. Might in sensitivity on a slack like. I don’t personally think it’s worth it I like mono and straight braid. 
 

it’s all as hard as we make it. Some of us make it hard and like it that way. I like it simple and effective 

The problem is, that I can't find anything that is effective there. I've had sporadic success with various things. Which is what has lead me to explore how to catch pressured fish, and lead me to the theories I propose. 

2 minutes ago, Bazoo said:

The problem is, that I can't find anything that is effective there. I've had sporadic success with various things. Which is what has lead me to explore how to catch pressured fish, and lead me to the theories I propose. 

I think your theory is thoughtful and sound.  Go for it!

Just now, OldManLure said:

I think your theory is thoughtful and sound.  Go for it!

Thanks!

I use FC from 5lb to 20lb. It all depends on the application and these aren't set in stone for me.....

 

For general use - 12lb

Jigs - 14-16lb

Crankbaits - 10lb

Jerkbaits - 10lb

Spinning gear - 6lb

Light jigs, shakeyhead, and small swimbaits - 8lb

BFS - 5 or 6lb

Swimbaits and big moving topwater - 20lb

 

There's a LOT of great information here: https://www.bassresource.com/how-to-fish

 

I suggest you take advantage of this library.

33 minutes ago, Glenn said:

There's a LOT of great information here: https://www.bassresource.com/how-to-fish

 

I suggest you take advantage of this library.

Thanks, I don't think I've seen that one.

8 hours ago, Bazoo said:

The problem is, that I can't find anything that is effective there. I've had sporadic success with various things. Which is what has lead me to explore how to catch pressured fish, and lead me to the theories I propose. 

Always worth a shot man. Some fish in certain conditions are just educated. Maybe flouro willl be the tickets there alot of vegetation and cover? 

We have Florida straight in LMB that are less aggressive and more wary striking lures then their Northern strain cousins.

Lakes with Northern strain LMB the bass and Spotted Bass are easier to catch, strike lures more aggressively.  
The only small diameter Nylon mono line with superior strength was Sunline Defier Armilo no loner available🤬. Sunline Super Natural is small diameter but doesn’t have the same knot strength or abrasion resistance as Armilo has. Berkley Big Game in similar line diameter as Armilo is a decent substitute.

Tom

@Bazoo  you are overthinking this.  How did you arrive at your mono line size?  You just went for it, right?  
 

I just started at 12lb and tried.   Turns out it’s an awesome jumping off point.  I still use it, for most applications.  
 

I catch plenty of fish and I’m happy.    I move up to 14lb for some things.  16 even if it’s a bigger swim bait.  Forum members are crazy opinionated. Haha.  I sometimes just like to discover my own way.