J Francho

They're magnesium, e.g. NOT aluminum.

I'll toss this in the mix: that the LMB are the bigger fish isn't always true. I used to beat the snot of guys in my club on Erie that would not venture out to the big lake, favoring largemouth "harbor rats." Best limit of LMB I ever saw there was 12 lbs. I generally came in with 17-20 lbs. of SMB. I'll bet that because the environment doesn't favor largemouth where the OP is fishing, they aren't going to be bigger than the smallies.

Same up here, and this year, the potholes are really bad.

Avid AVC62MXF.

It's going to be someone else's problem by fall. Selling it.

My buddy uses one of the hitch extenders. Works well for him.

One per battery, yes.

Yep, it's a cool boat, for sure. If I was in the market, I'd take a long look at Bonafide. Currently, my C140 gets the job done.

You want an onboard charger. You simply plug in the boat, no fussing with clip connections, or potentially screwing up the connections. They make 2, 3, and 4 bank chargers. I've always used Dual Pro brand.

It's Luther's project, and he certainly has had a lot of input, but the boat hull was primarily designed by Hans Nutz, who also desined the ATAK, Commander, Ride, and several others for Wildy. Some of Luther's bits are likely the trick handles.

It's called Line Butter. Made by Ardent as well. I have no reason to stray from L&L, it's always worked, and I use it after every trip.

You should be able to put the rods up front, and lay them so they pass between the seats and to the back. That's what I do in my extended cab truck. I can go up to 8'. The other option is store them in the kayak hull. I did that for any long trips for years, but the boat has to be a SOT.

I don't like or recommend anything less than a fast taper for spinnerbaits. It might be nice to cast, but setting the hook is most important, and a faster taper is going drive that large hook home.

I use 30# Tuf-Line SuperCaster. It's a coated, fused superline with a mono core. It floats, has zero stretch, and it's as if it was designed for topwaters.

It's more about what cover I'm fishing, and activity level. Spinnerbaits come through grass and wood without issue. Crankbaits, not so much. In either case, contact and deflection off the cover you're fishing is critical to success.

http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/84925.html NYDEC only cares if it's a trout. The lake is stocked with thousands of brown trout every year. I'd just be looking for fish, and fish for whatever bites.

Everything melted Sunday, after getting 4-6" on Saturday. A gutter fell victim to ice damming. Looks like we hit our average 80" for the season. Now we're in the bonus round.

Most business models include making a profit.

1-800-633-1468

I don't feel any flex, but I have seen an aluminum frame reel fail at the reel foot. Ripped the front foot off. It was a $200 Daiwa Viento, and my best guess is there was a flaw in the casting. I do prefer a solid aluminum frame for heavy stuff, but after trying out some of the composite reels, they have held up fine. I have a few Stradic CI4 spinners, a TD-Z, and a couple of KastKing reels that are all composite material. They're light, and plenty strong for the job.

Lol, you realize they inflate when wet or submerged. How an inflatable would seem appropriate for these activities is beyond me. Anyway, that West Marine looks exactly like my Stearns jacket, with D-rings added to the belt. They would likely drive me nuts. West Marine stuff is usually a little overpriced, so be aware that 50% may not be as good a deal as you think. I got my Stearns for around $80 at F&S. My Mustang HIT was north of $250.

For what purpose? That fin will heal in a week or two.

It stays inflated until you manually deflate it. It's actually a bit of a pain to deflate when rearming.

I'd bet it would be easy to buy one pump setup, and rotate between a big cooler and a smaller one for your kayak.

Wow.....let's see how long the wait is. I wonder if that's affecting production of other models.