J Francho

Abrasion resistance and braid do not fit in the same sentence. It is exactly why many use a leader from some other material.

Let's see some pics of those teeners.

HIT is gonna run you two bills, minimum. The dissolving bobbin style is pretty reliable. The only time mine went off is when I dropped it in the water, lol.

The feature you want is HIT - hydro-static inflation. The rest are just fitment differences. If you're moving at high speed, then you want more than just the strap. If it's just slower water travel, the strap model will do.

Semi dry suit. Get one with a "relief zipper"

Teeners? Oregon state record is 12 lbs. 1.6 oz. Anyway, take a look at Lure Parts for the things you need: http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Shop-By-Product-Category/

Linking doesn't mean you'll fish together.

Not an issue. My arm and trolley are on the same side. Typically, I run the anchor line toward the stern of boat, since I don't want it where I'm fishing. The trolley line sits flush to the boat, while the arm does not, so it's out of the way.

I do both sides, but if it's just one, then the right.

There's two votes.....

I think it was Mercury brand. Honestly, I just get whatever fogging oil they hand me at the marine store.

I always just fogged my Mercs.

@A-Jay took a job as a hand model.

Ditto that, too.

$6 jig? I don't pay nearly that much for custom, wire tied jigs....

They work great. We've even used them on my buddy's 20' bass boat when we "pole" into a slop flat. Anyone that has fished Oneida Lake in mid summer knows what I mean - Big Bay, hint, hint.

The reason for the trailer hook is not really for short strikes, it's for when the fish crashes the blades. You can tell, because they're hooked in the chin by the trailer. Take the trailer hook off, and you start getting what you think may be short strikes, and start changing blades, when you had the blade patter right all along... Just another way to think of it. And I agree, trailer hook or not, getting short strikes means you got some part of the equation wrong. Probably the reason I have so many spinnerbaits - though they are all mostly white or white and chartreuse. Blade color and size seems to be a bigger influence on the bite in my waters.

I prefer a moderate taper, graphite rod for cranking. The rod is lighter, and more sensitive than fiberglass, and the deflection behavior of the bait, when using mono, copoly, or fluoro is virtually the same. That gain in sensitivity helps me guide the bait through cover, like weeds, fallen timber, dock posts, etc. without hanging up or fouling the hooks with weeds. I can also discern how hard the bottom is, when making contact.

If you have the means, I would not hesitate to use SI.

Most can't read my graphics when I'm running

1.877.470.LEWS (5397)

Call Lew's, and ask for a schematic for your reel. Otherwise, you can look at a Revo schematic, and try to limp through it. Lastly, you can send the parts to a pro, and pay them to put it back together.

1/0 Gamakatsu Wide Gap Finesse

Siebert makes one for me that matches Ragetail 'Bama Craw perfectly. That, and black, or black and blue are my faves.

You can generally find a jig style that will fit any situation, including through a hole in the ice, that will catch.