J Francho

Sam, you need to do some research before calling someone out. You are wrong. The mold is prepped, clear, then colors, in reverse of appearance, then glass and resin, either by hand or sprayed with a chop gun. It gets cured, and removed from the mold, cleaned and polished. What your are describing is one possible repair method. It sounds similar to how they fixed my top cap on my Bullet.

I was quoted $4k for the top cap of my boat.

Do something, even if it's wrong.

Where were you? Never came close, even on the Susky.

We're those cold springs, A-jay?

Better than you in the same boat.

I get Fisheyez from DSG or Gander for around $20.

Go up to the Megastrikelink on the right, put a Cavitron in your cart, and check out.

I've never rolled a fishing boat, not once.

Spunk is an old English term..

When I needed a rack, I bought a Thule. It was never an issue.

What's she rated for? Is there plaque with Max HP?

What kind of prop? Al or SS? Model/pitch? Might be able to repair it.

There's a Snag Proof frog with a buzzer that should work.

The rock thing only bothers me when I'm fishing from shore. I tell them to do it somewhere else, or I leave.

Just skewer them on the hook. You won't have them long enough to split in half.

I can assure you that with no means to check length on a restricted gamefish, any Econ officer will not be passive about issuing tickets.

Gardnerjigman, on some fish, gutting greatly saves time. Large trout and salmon, for instance. It's easier to simply cut right through the ribs, and fillet them after you've got the steak off the back bone. Also with trout hens, you probably want to get the skein or loose eggs to cure and use as bait later. You can't contaminate them with tap water, or they go bad.

That rig posted is a pretty typical euro carp rig. And what does being Hispanic have to do with the story? What's the limit on cats and drum? There's no limit here, they're considered tough fish, not game fish.

Roger, I'll only say that oxygen can come up short in warmer water. It also holds less O2. I also find that the warmest water is usually the most stagnant water, which doesn't help this O2 thing. So if you can put that as "comfort" in your paragraph in place of deep, or cooler, or what ever temperature, does it make more sense? I'm thinking that temperature is just a symptom of low O2, some of the time. Since must any cheap fish finder, along with the most expensive shoes us temp, that's the first thing we blame. There's bo such thing as a cheap dissolved oxygen sensor. Years ago, I had a DO pen. I think that cost me a couple hundred bucks. pH pens dipped below $100, but we're only as good as the calibration. You also have that deal where there's a relationship between DO, or more properly, CO2, and pH. pH, being a log rhythmic, non linear measurement, can affect fish quicker than temperature. But now we're just scratching the surface of water chemistry. Fish like stability. I'll leave it at that.

Nothing wipes away confidence like when a bait stops working.

Locks keep honest people honest.

Even trailers that don't look like it, do have a place for a lock. My Bullet's trailer, you have a spot for a long pin type lock, just in front of the piston for the brakes. It's not obvious, like my other trailer.

A $20 lock probably seems pretty cheap now.

I watched a guy doing a lecture at bass pro get bit like 30 times by a steelhead in the tank on his braid w/leader DS rig. He had no idea, and the braid had a crazy bow in it, even with the leader. Just an interesting observation. Was pretty funny, since many asked him if he felt the 30" trout take his bait. He had no idea it was happening.