Team9nine

Most times it won’t matter. Use whatever you have on hand. For me, that’s fluoro more days than not, but any nylon/copoly will be fine, too. Only a few specific instances I’d be selective for one over the other.

This just came through my FB feed, so thought I’d add it to this thread...

I agree, but only to a point. It's a fine line. I think rod action starts playing into the equation more as sensitivity goes up. I believe you can be either too sensitive, or not sensitive enough. I like playing in the middle.

Never cared for any all glass rods I’ve tried. 50/50 on composites - just depends on how it’s made. Lower level graphite in a more moderate action has always worked out best for me.

You'll have to report back when you get to water test them. One unique thing about the Tricksters is their overly long and specially bent top wire arm. Won't be able to duplicate that with the spinnerbait frames you currently have the blades on.

Don't have to worry about those tank smallies over here that much. I can say no issue with the 8# line for green bass up to around 6.25 pounds, and have even caught a random hybrid striper to 10-12 pounds a time or two. Never broken a fish off yet with it. I do bump to 10# for the larger size MBs as well as larger/heavier Pointers (110, 128).

See if this answers your questions: MLF Referees

Similar to A-Jay, I start out smaller in most cases at the start of the year. I like 8# for the Megabass 110s I tend to throw. I will later upsize to 10# or even 12# if I upsize to one of the larger MB baits, or go to a heavier, more robust bait like a Pointer. Ten pound would seem like a good all-around compromise for jerbaits for most situations. There is definitely a noticeable difference though in fishing with 8# versus 12#

Absolutely. I know some guys that even have mounts in their trucks and use the units for navigation on the way to the lake No different than the big store displays

Still the same outfits for me, but this spring when I respool, I'm going to match my line color to my reels for a more impressive effect Spinning Casting

If I have to have something extremely abrasion resistant, I go with Toray Superhard. Otherwise, it's Tatsu and InvizX all day long. I don't even bother with any other lines. Simply no need to.

Always have the pink (and white) trick worms in the bag from spawn through early summer around here.

Creating lines is a different animal. Unless we’re just dealing with a difference in terminology and talking around the same points, you can go to several line manufacturers websites (Berkley, Toray, for example) where they will confirm that water absorption by nylon lines reduces abrasion resistance, tensile and shock strength, not to mention the numerous studies published confirming this fact. It’s also why the IGFA only tests these lines after soaking them.

Maybe an exception and allow flashers only. Otherwise, I like it ?

I’d say that is a fair analysis. The only caveat I’d add, at least initially is that looking at the big picture, what specifics he may not have got technically correct based on modern telemetry doesn’t really matter. It doesn’t change the outcome any. So you have a group of bass on one point in 12’ of water, and another different group of bass further out in 22’ of water. Different schools, but by following the procedures Buck laid down, you are still going to run into and catch both schools of fish. Doesn’t matter that the fish in 22’ didn’t move up, or the fish in 12’ didn’t move back down. Similar with suspension. Who cares whether as Hope documented, a suspended fish moved horizontally over deeper water until he hit a structure, or whether that fished moved up from deeper water to hit the same structure at the same depth. If you’re there fishing at the right time in the right manner, you’ll still catch those fish. That’s the beauty of Spoonplugging, you can be right for all the wrong reasons and still make great catches. Lots of us have the pictures to prove it ?

Not sure I’d go that far...? I’m just not convinced it’s a real good comparison for reflecting on the water experience due to what seems like is insufficient moisture absorption. Abrasion tests are difficult in that regard, but his setup is pretty nice compared to some I’ve seen.

Generally speaking, fluoro is going to be more abrasion resistant under “fishing” conditions, and that has been my experience using it as well. Obviously there will be differences based on things like diameter, composition, formula, etc., but comparing two like lines, fluoro will come out on top more times than not. The video link JustJames posted is a little misleading. His (Luke’s) initial tests were done dry, not wet, and when he did do a follow up wet test, he only soaked lines for 15 minutes. Being leader lines, they should arguably be tougher and slower to absorb water to begin with, so 15 minutes wouldn’t be enough time to bring out the difference in such a test. Tackle Tour did the same kind of comparison only their base mono was Trilene XL, a soft limp line, and in that case, a 15 minute soak yielded a 50% decrease in abrasion resistance, making it worse than every fluorocarbon line tested. So you need to try and test “apples to apples” as well as properly set up the test conditions to begin with. For reference sake, ASTM standard for a water absorption test is to soak 24 hrs or until equilibrium. Even a liquid like blood takes 75-120 minutes to reach an equilibrium state with water absorption. Nylon polymers are hygroscopic, meaning they readily attract water which will then change their physical properties like tensile strength and abrasion resistance (weaken), whereas fluorocarbon is more hydrophobic, or water repellent, so it’s initial properties tend to change little after repeated water exposure.

There is a dedicated sub-culture of serious carp anglers here in the states. Their level of angling technology and specialization is on par with that of bass anglers. Carp, in general, are much "smarter" or more "aware" than bass are, and they are fun to catch when intentionally targeted. If you want to learn how to land bass on light line, free line some bread or corn on a local carp pond and find out what your equipment and angling skills can really handle. Once you learn how to whip 10-20 pound carp on your finesse gear and 4-6 pound line, no bass you hook is likely to ever scare you

We'll start with the short answer, which is - absolutely false!

You’d be hard pressed to come up with anything better than the recommended books above. This thread is now closed. Oh, wait - I forgot I’m not a moderator ? ?

Agree completely - post spawn for sure. A few of us have been using them for well over 25 years, long before they kind of became “popular” again. Have never gone out of style around here because not enough guys throw them.

Right handed person, right handed reels. Done a lot of flipping and pitching in my day and never felt at a disadvantage, especially since I only use Castaic reels for this. No practical advantage IMO going lefty for the average bass angler. Oversold idea.

Not in the case of being disqualified for prizes in a tournament. Polygraph is enough to have your catch thrown out at tournament directors discretion. Everyone signs onto that when they submit their entry.

I’m guessing any good superglue would do it. Don’t remember exact brands I’ve used. You have to get the magnets lined up right when you do it. Look at another one you have to get right alignment. Another trick is turn your Magforce all the way to ten. If I remember right, by doing that, the magnets will naturally “attract” in the correct alignment. Then don’t adjust Magforce dial until the glue has had plenty of time to dry.

Exactly what has happened to me with several of my older TD-Hi models over the years as I mentioned above. Seems to be a common occurrence if you keep them long enough. Good to know it's not just my bad luck or abuse