The_Natural

Chris obviously has some good info, and I'll add that when you tie on a crank, use your rod tip to move it around just under the surface to see the crankbaits action. Chris also talked about being in tune with your bait, and feeling what it is doing at all times, which is key. An easy way to judge how fast your crankbait is wobbling is to not only feel the vibration, but look at your rod tip...it will wobble in sych with your crankbait.

quHehe...I don't think I've ever heard RW quote his 12lb and 6lb Ultra soft lines without listing the breaking strength as well. I will suggest a good 12lb Copolymer such as Pline CXX or the new Evolution. Hybrid is also a choice, but I like the regular versus the ultra soft due to the better clarity and less stretch.

The Alphas is indeed a Japanese Sol, but weighs a full ounce less. If I remember correctly the Type F is 6.2ozs, and the regular purple Alphas are 6.4ozs. Who said this isn't a disease

It depends on the rod company. For Loomis, the CBR845 is the most versatile (IMHO), and I can throw 1/4oz baits without a problem. I use the 845 significantly more than my 843, which is a little lacking in power. So for Loomis, you would want a MH and a H for deeper baits. If you went St. Croix, I would go M for 1/2oz and under, and a MH for larger baits. So get both!

The fact is Flechero, is that you are absolutely correct. Why would anyone pay more for a mossyback over an IMX?! They look purdy, but it's what is inside that counts, and I want the higher modulous, higher strain IMX. Avid- I've got your new rods twin, the BCR852. I keep 8 or 10lb fluoro on it and it handles all my light casting needs. This rod is so sensitive it dam near hurts my fingers!

That is a fairly knowledgable answer for someone starting a lot of newbie threads lately :-?

Everyone should own a sammy...the first bait of that design. The gunfish is a close second...I think you can buy a cheaper bait that works as well as the G-splash though.

I definitely want some, but will not pay 15.99 for one. I will wait until they go on sale. Right now is your last chance to buy some of the shallow RC series for 9.99...don't wait until you see people slaughtering fish on these baits this spring...they will run you 15.99 then!

My main heavy line cover beaters are the Lucky Craft RC series, Bagley B series, and Lucky Craft BDS series.

The old weenie worm (finesse worm for people that weren't fishing in the early 90's) will get bit so often you will spend all day taking fish off the hook. My favorite would be Charlie Brewers original slider worm and slider head. A newer bait that is a close second is the Zoom Ultravibe Speed Craw. When the water is above 60 degrees, this thing will catch everything in the lake. Basically, anything small will get bit frequently.

Go to the Bassresource.com home page and search for crankbait articles. Do a google search and you will have countless hours of reading. I would also highly recommend Mike Iaconelli's article on crankbaits- he breaks down the different actions of crankbaits and when to use each.

+1 I have 4 mg50's, and I've got one spooled with 8lb fluoro for finesse casting, and also have two on my pitchin' sticks with 20lb fluoro. They are extremely versatile. They are dubbed finesse reels due to their ability to throw light weight baits, but this will benefit you no matter the weight of the bait you throw, and they have a powerful enough drag to use them for any technique.

I throw a lot of spinnerbaits, and I've got two identical setups that I run. I have mbr843 glx's paired with Daiwa Alphas. I owned two Loomis SBR's (spinner bait rods), but I found the mbr843 to excel due to the tip. I did have IMX 843's before the GlX's, but for the purpose of throwing spinnerbaits, I can tell no difference. The mbr843 seems to have just the perfect speed and power for throwing spinnerbaits. For line, I always use 15lb clear Pline CXX reglardless of water conditions.

I can say that for hard baits, Lucky Craft is my hands-down favorite, but for every other Category, I don't have a clear favorite.

In the Winter and early spring, sometimes the bite can be really slow until the sun gets high and warms the water a bit. I focus on chunk rock which radiates heat, and would throw a nice tight wobbling crank. I am fond of the Lucky Craft Moonsault, and would probably throw the moonsault cb-200, 250, or 350, which has an extremely tight wobble and is incredibley loud. Stick to shad colors.

Well poop! I bought a couple a week or so ago, but I got a really good deal on them. The great thing about Japanese lures though, is the fact they have a really good resale value, and you can just sell them if they aren't working for you

Straight shanks have a superior hook angle when compared to EWG's or offset round bends, which equates to a better hook up ratio. In KVD's newest book, he said he used offset round bend hooks for worm fishing until he worm fished with the godfather of the worm, Larry Nixon. He said Nixon instructed him to use a straight shank, and KVD expressed that his hook up ratio "dramatically improved". With the advent of the wide gap straight shank, you can get away with using a straight shank hook with some of the thicker baits as well. I will use a straight shank as KVD says "anytime I can get away with it", but straight shank hooks are generally longer than EWG's of the same size, so some baits just aren't compatible. I still use EWG's on tubes, speed craws, brush hogs, GYCB 8" grubs...baits that are too short or too thick for justifying a straight shank. KVD also shared that straight shank hooks are not as weedless, and recommends an offset round bend hook versus an EWG when fishing carolina rigs. Kevin also stated that the offset round bend hook "props you bait up off the bottom a little" when used on a carolina rig, which he believes provides better action and aids in bass inhaling your bait. I love the experimentation aspect of our hobby, and you may find the straight shank will help you stick more bass.

I love compact spinnerbaits. My favorites are the Screamin' Eagle by War Eagle, S.O.B mini-me, and the Leverage 3/16oz in natural shad which sleys fish in clear water.

Oh man...something else to buy! http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.TextId?hvarTextId=90416&hvarDept=100&hvarEvent=&hvarClassCode=5&hvarSubCode=1&hvarTarget=browse

Gene Larew old recipe 8" hooktail worm in Tomatoe color. This worm was a bright blood red, and was ridiculously soft...as soft as a Senko and tore just as easily. It just slayed fish. Gene Larew switched to a different 'recipe', and plastic is totally different, as is the color. I'd gladly pay $20 a bag if I could find some.

I haven't had a lot of luck with jerkbaits in the fall. Fat, wide wobbling shallow cranks however... 8-)

$100 range...1/4 of a Steez $200 range...1/2 of a steez Seriously though, I'd go with a scorpion on the low end, and a Scorpion MG on the upper end. These reels can be purchased from Genrinpeche for $119 and $185 respectively.

Megabass rods are the prettiest rods I've ever seen, but the warranty is what keeps me away. I'm clumsy, and always break a couple of rods a year. If I go Japanese high end, it will have to be a Steez.

You can just send those items my way, and that will take care of my Christmas present!

Yep. There isn't a tree that lines this pond that is still standing. This beaver has chewed through several trees that were more than a few feet in diameter.