The_Natural

My beginner setup would be based on a medium action spinning setup, which was my first serious bass rod. My first actual rod and reel was a snoopy combo, but I received a spinning setup soon after and felt it wasn't any more difficult to learn. That first spinning combo was a 6' medium action lightning rod, with a Shimano AX2000 spinning reel, and I used it for largemout as well as sand bass. Baits would be as follows: A Jitterbug for surface action (this is a must/staple/classic!) *4" Berkley power worms(purple) (In water 60 degrees and up, this will keep you busy all day!) *6" Zoom Lizards White 3/8oz tandem spinnerbait (gold/silver blades) Bomber 6A in firetiger Rattlin' Rogue in blue/silver with orange belly Bill Lewis Rattletrap in Chrome/silver Rooster tail (which ever color looks purdy ) *A pack of 1/8oz jigheads will make any soft bait easy to rig and fish, while not requiring a hook-set. Since the advent of the 'shakey head' technique, jigheads have improved dramatically and are now larger (usually 2/0 or 3/0). These should work fine for most plastic baits, and won't limit the beginner to a small worm. Since I know RW won't take it personal, I will say IMHO that the BII seems a bit specialized for a starter box. The Zara puppy is also very effective, but 'walking the dog' may be a little advanced for someone just starting out as well. For beginners, you hit the nail on the head with the Jitterbug; I had forgotten about that timeless bait. I suppose a buzzbait would be easy to master as well.

I don't really have a favorite color of rooster tail, because when the sandies are runnin', they will eat anything! I don't use them for targeting largemouth specifically, or know anyone who does.

I examined these in the store, and concluded they were Strike King Pro Model cranks with better finishes. They even appeared to have the same hooks. This hypothesis is the same for the new Mann's elite baits. Obviously I can't observe how durable they are, if the internal structuring is different, or how well they fish without purchasing one, but my past experience with Strike King crankbaits has them topping my list of the cheapest made and least durable baits available. I still stock several of the Strike King Pro model cranks in my arsenal, because they work well in certain conditions, but I will never pay $7 for one. I am happy that Lucky Craft has sparked the U.S. manufacturers to step up with better finishes, but the entire bait needs to be better.

While the Pointers do work well, the Flashminnow is designed to runner shallower, and is more of a bait to use in conjunction with the pointers.

I generally find the 100 Pointers and 110 Flashminnows are just as appealing to large bass as the 128 and 130 respectively, but I do realize patience in throwing those extra large jerkbaits has the potential to lure an extremely large, lazy bass that eats infrequently. I wouldn't hesitate to throw a 130 while pleasure fishing, but in a tournament, the 100/110 size will catch quality fish without eliminating the smaller limit fillers.

Light plastics- Gammy Pitching/heavier line plastics- Xpoint and Owner Trebles- Daiichi 4x

I have a few of these baits, but the flat mini MR and DR are the only ones I really fish. They just aren't pole position baits for me- in colder water I'm throwing the Moonsaults, and when the water warms up I'm throwing the RC's and BDS's.

I hate to pay full price for Lucky Craft Crankbaits knowing there is quite a bit of markup for these baits. The secret to building an arsenal of Lucky Crafts is to shop for sales frequently. I realize if you have a tournament coming up and need a bait, you can't wait for a sale, but those are the exceptions. Bass Pro puts Pointers on sale during their Spring Classic for $12, and they will randomly select slow selling or closeout colored Lucky Crafts and mark them down to $6.88. The key is just checking frequently. The Rick Clunn RC series usually goes on sale twice a year, and you can buy them right now for 9.99, and the Lucky Craft Stacey King Jerkbait is 10.99. Backwaters is my favorite place to find bargains; they always have a sale bin, and put a slew of items in there every couple of months. They have a Lucky Craft sale once or twice a year, and mark them down to around $10, and you are actually catching the end of one of their Lucky Craft sales right now ( http://www.backwatersonline.com/category.cfm?Category=1552 ) Search Ebay stores also...you can find some good prices there as well.

Megabass lures are indeed works or art...there isn't anything prettier or better made. That said, Lucky Crafts as a whole just catch more fish, and it all boils down to Megabass being designed by artists (Mr. Ito), and Lucky Craft's are designed and developed through imput from their FLW and Elite series Pro Staff, and prototypes are actually fished by the tournament pro's who modify and influence the final design.

I use Pixies for my light and medium cranking needs paired with Loomis CBR 843's and 845's. For deeper cranks and ripping grass I need an 847 (heavy action) cbr...I've been using my medium heavy for these techniques and it just doesn't cut it. I haven't completely decided on a reel yet.

I mainly use a 6' medium action St. Croix Avid spool with 8lb fluorocarbon.

I have a bunch of LVR's and LV's, but no LVR D15's. I pretty much max out at 3/4oz on traps. I bet you can cast that 1oz trap a mile!

I use 6 main lucky craft shallow crankbaits, and each has conditions it excels in. Moonsault cb100- This super tight wiggling, obnoxiously loud crankbait excels in cool or cold water. When the water temp is in the 50's on a warm March day, I will fan cast main lake pockets with the cb100 looking for fish moving up to feed or females beginning their scouting process. This bait works well in the fall also, when the baitfish start to bunch up in the backs of creeks. Use the Moonsault in situations that you would normally throw a trap. Rick Clunn RC1.5 and 2.5- These baits produce a semi-wide, erratic searching wiggle, and I love to throw them in the late spawn or postspawn, although they will work when the water temp gets in the 60's throughout the fall. Lucky Craft BDS 1 and 2- The BDS 1 and 2 have a much different profile and action than the 3 and 4 of the same series. The 1 and 2 have a balsa-like, slightly rolling wide wobble that is at home in the heat of the summer, thowing it wherever there is cover, laydowns, or brush. I will pitch this bait a lot in the same places I would throw a jig or worm. Lucky Craft BDS 3 and 4- The BDS 3 and 4 have a much slimmer profile, and tighter wiggle (yet not really tight) than the 1 and 2 of the same series. You can throw the 3 and 4 during the early spring, in cooler water, and under similar conditions in the fall. Lucky Craft cb50 or combat 001- I use these baits in shad or ghost colors to fish over the tops of shallow grass beds.

Slider fishing is totally different than shaking a worm on a jighead (shakey head). The slider head coupled with a flat tailed slider worm glides through the water, imitating a small minnow. You can cover water faster with a slider, but it is geared toward fish feeding in the middle of the water column, versus a shakey head which excels when fish want a slower, more methodical bottom approach. If you haven't used Charlie Brewers Sliders...I highly recommend you do so. I had never seen or heard of one back in '93 during a Red Man tournament on Lake of the Ozarks. My boater was throwing a slider in Camo, and my weenie worm on a standard jighead was getting smoked by his slider. He was nice enough to hook me up with a slider head and worm, and I ended up with a paycheck. I'll never forget that, and Sliders have been in my box ever since.

I use my fingernails, and it is the most efficient way to go. I agree with the 'practice makes perfect'- I own a pair of split ring pliers, but soon realized it was a lot quicker to use my fingernail. Once you get it down, you won't ever injure your finger, and you can pretty much do it blindfolded. FYI...I really endorse the Daiichi 4x trebles. Not only are they super sticky, but hold their point longer than any hooks I have found. They are around $5 for 8 or 9 trebles (about average), but Daiichi sells them in 100pks (the only manufacturer to do so I might add) for $23.99. This is hands down the way to go, and it allows you to change your hooks often without worrying about cost.

That surpises me...I've held several rods that seemed tip heavy to me, and the Loomis isn't one of them; especially the IMX 843. That thing is feather light and balances very well for me!

The Alphas is a full ounce lighter, and holds a little more line. I don't see a reason to choose the Sol over the type F.

The only hooks I sharpen are spinnerbait hooks- all other hooks and treble hooks get trashed when they become dull.

I've got both Senko casting rods...the 864 and 893. The 864 would make a fine frog rod, and both rods work well for all plastics. The 893 is my favorite rod for throwing 1/4oz and under t-rigged plastics, and the 864 works well for everything heavier.

Hehe...this is like a 'what is the best line/rod/reel post'...everyone has a favorite. I use several different hook brands. For lighter line, I like Gammy and Texposer hooks (for stickbaits). For Heavier applications, I use X-points and Owner straight shanks. Treble hooks are where I have a hands down favorite...The Daiichi 4x red trebles. The 4x hooks use a heavy gauge wire, and this equates to a stronger treble that holds its point longer. I've been using them for a couple of seasons now, and remain impressed.

Trust me...you are not too organized. I actually reorganize my stuff all the time just because I enjoy doing it; I'm always looking for a better system for sorting my tackle. I keep all my stuff in one of our extra bedrooms...on display. If you make it neat enough, your wife won't even care if it is out! I'll take some pics tomorrow...I'm tired.

Duh...I guess I didn't consider that you had decided on an action/power, and then were looking at your choices in series next. Well, regardless, your decision was a good one . It is never a bad thing to get the best 8-). Let us know how she performs!

I fully agree, so it looks like the lamiglas by a landslide. If it were the Avid you were comparing, it would be a lot closer

Pointer 100 in Chartreuse Shad...

My experience has been a little different. One of my favorite things to do is cast one of my afforementioned crankbaits over a log or limb that is just under the surface, and let it come over the top. I will reel steadily as my bait is approaching the log, and sweep my rod right before my bait comes into contact, and it will rocket over the log creating a disturbance, and usually a bass. I haven't had any issues with snagging coming over laydowns...I feel this is where they excel. I've never considered hook placement along the curvature of the bait, yet I look at the bait in it's diving position, angled down, and see if the hook points are lower than the bill and whether they stick out on the sides. I look at this because generally your bait will go under the log/limb first, and as your bait comes up it's back will hit the underneath side of the log, roll to the nose, and then on to the bill as it comes over the top of the log. The bait will never leave its diving angle, and as long as the hook points don't protrude down farther than the lip in it's diving position, I don't see how it can snag. I lose the most baits trying to get them through bushes or clusters of limbs, not casting over laydowns. I'm not saying you are wrong...just what my experience has been. My technique could play a part in this as well...my 'sweep' I do right before I come over a log not only produces a better collision and deflection, but aids in the bait shooting over the log. My heart races everytime I see a laydown and have a B2 tied on!