MarauderYak

Someone mentioned it earlier, but make sure the drag isn't kicking in while your spooling. The spool should not turn at all. If you keep having trouble, you might try this method... Get a new spool of line, and when you re-spool, put a pen (or similar item) to put through the spool, and have the line come off the bottom of the spool with a little tension on it. I just finished spooling three spinning reels with 10 lb mono, and the line was perfect. I've tried the "proper" way with mixed results, but never had line twist when doing it this way.

Their high-end golf club shafts have NOT been selling like hotcakes. Doesn't mean they're going under, but they're hurting. Having your top pro leave & say negative things about the company & the product right before I-Cast WILL hurt them further.

Interesting post... It appears to me that you've made several assumptions... It just might be a "stand up move" but you've jumped to these conclusions before any evidence is out. It could simply be that his contract renewal date coincides with ICAST. I'm sure by the very nature of this business- many contracts originate about this time each year. I need evidence to support the thought this was a financial decision? He mentions the financial aspect several times in that article, and I do happen to know that E-21 is having payment issues. The breakage issue was actually worse in early production, and has improved. The financial issues have only recently arose. I don't even think him making a financially based decision is a bad thing. I'm just saying I don't find it a reason to lay accolades on him. It's just a "normal" business decision. In fact, I would say his decision was smart. I just don't see it as making him either good OR bad. Anyone who feels otherwise is certainly free to.

I've mentioned before that I'd have just a little concern over buying a Carrot Stix rod; but I'm not sure I'd jump right into commending Duckett on this move. It's no coincidence that he's doing this right before I-Cast. It's more than a little likely that this move was strictly a financial one. If that's the case, I can understand it completely, but I don't see how it qualifies as a "stand-up" move. I'm certainly not bad-mouthing Duckett, just pointing out his decision is more than likely spurred by financial reasons.

I've heard some may be available next week.

I'm sure full details will be available in a day or two, but I here's a little more info... 5.5 oz; 85yds of 12lb mono; 7.0:1 ratio; 7 A-RB bearings; and lower profile than the CH50Mg was. Sorry to post partial info.

OK, I've seen the news getting out to a few places already, so I throw it on here... The Core 50 AND 51 Magnesium will be available VERY soon. $369.99 retail. Not quite as cheap as the old 50Mg, but should make some people happy.

Just call & ask. They should be able to get you a schematic. Make sure you have the exact model number.

If you're having a tough time taking the side-plates off you might want to reconsider doing it. You could easily end up losing a part or possibly even doing more damage.

There will be another line as well. You should see it by the end of next week.

No, slowing down the spool with your thumb at ANY time during the cast will only help prevent backlash. Let me give you an extreme example to try & explain... If you were to let out 4 or 5 feet of line, hold the lure with your non-casting hand and pull back on it to load the rod, then release the lure (holding the rod still) and take your thumb off the spool. The lure will will go flying forward, and when the rod finishes unloading the line will then go slack until the lure pulls the slack out. When the lure reaches the end of the slack line it starts the spool spinning. But the energy needed to start the spool spinning slows the lure & you immediately have the spool spinning out more line than the lure is taking. That same situation can be created with casts. For example if you "snap" cast and the rod is already unloading or completely unloaded before you let go of the spool. To avoid this, just make sure you are still accelerating (or at least not slowing down) the cast at the point you release the spool.

If the lure "jerks" the spool to get it started you're going to get some amount of backlash. In other words, if the maximum force applied to the spool is not at the instant you release it (slack in the line). This is most commonly caused by a decelerating the cast at the moment the spool is released. The lure then reaches the end of available slack line, jerks the spool, and that force instantly slows the lure down. That will build a good amount of slack line at the spool very quickly.

Facts and/or data to back this up? Or internet mumbo jumbo? My statement was based on what has been noted by a couple of large retailers, and what has been happening at the largest returns clearance center in the country.

I have more sunglasses than any individual should own. I have some I've bought mainly for their looks, some just for their function, and several in between. If you want the glasses that will function the best for fishing I suggest Costa. They have the best quality lenses, and good coverage. On bright days I prefer blue mirror lenses, but you might prefer one that lets more light through. My only functional knock on the Costa's I own is that neither pair I own are super comfortable (they're on the heavy side), and both pairs will sometimes slide down my nose a bit. But I'll still chose a pair of CDM glasses most of the time for fishing. I think Maui Jim's offer the second best lenses, and are lighter & more comfortable. I say second best lenses because their treatments don't do much for increasing contrast. They are easily on par with CDM when it comes to blocking glare & giving a distortion free view (in a lighter weight lense), but CDM lense colors & treatments are the best. I have a couple pair of Wiley-X, and that's actually who I went with for my motorcycle glasses. Their auto-darkening lenses work very well, and their glasses are comfortable. The lense quality is good, but I don't find it to be as good as CDM or MJ. Oakley are OK, but your paying more for their marketing than you are for their quality. I have a pair that I got way below retail, and I like them alright. They certainly to have some cool styles. 8-) The CDM & MJ are going to be over $100 retail, but you may be able to find a deal on e-bay (or another place on-line).

I'm pretty sure you guys are all around the new Shimano reel. They need a US version of a 50 size + They already have the magnesium frame Core series...

For what you're wanting to do, you might want to consider a travel rod. I know BPS has travel rods in their Extreme family that come with a travel tube. I think the restriction vary by airline, but I'm betting it's going to have to be a travel rod (3 or 4 pc) to be taken as a carry-on.

The carrot stix are experiencing a slightly higher (than the industry norm) rate of breakage. I've heard that they modified the construction on at least a couple of LTX casting models a while ago to try & correct that issue. I like the rods, but durability is a bit of a concern for me. I know they have a limited lifetime warranty, but what happens if they quite making rods in a couple of years? :-?

When you say the "handle", are you meaning the knob/grip? The handle itself is aluminum & nearly identical to the Tierra handle. If you want to replace just the knob it's really easy to take it off. Why don't you try & see if you can switch it out with your Tierra knob. If it works, and you like it better, just buy another Tierra knob.

When you say it broke "in half", do you mean between the handle & the first guide? I have a friend who broke two while casting in that spot. I've seen quite a few breaking there. I think they tried to take a little too much weight out of them. But they should cover that without the warranty card as it has been an issue. Just take back to where you bought it (assuming you bought it from a shop).

Typically some models of rods/reels that aren't going forward will start to drop in price after ICAST. But that's only if the new models will be available shortly there after. However both BPS & Cabellas have already dropped the price on the Stradic Mg (it's being replaced).

I wasn't trying to make an analogy, I was just suggesting it might be more simple to understand action if it was just defined as a number that represented how much of the rod had "action". Fast, Med-Fast, Slow, etc. aren't consistant from one series to the next, and I think the choice of using those terms leads to confusion. Great, now I'm making confusing posts complaining about confusing terms.

The verbage used doesn't make it any easier in this case. If you remove 3" from the tip of a rod & shake it, the new tip will react much "faster" than before. I think it would be nice if there was an industry standard numbering system for action that represented where the deflection point is. a "9" would mean only 10% of the rod bent; a "7" would mean 30% bent; and a "1" would be parabolic.

Technically W&M, but it really doesn't matter. It's the same thing. It's like the difference between Pflueger & Shakespeare. It's now two brand names within the same company. If I had to bet, I'd say these rods are going to be close to the Mojo rods in popularity. You'll see a lot more of them than you do the Skeet Reese reel.

Eagle Claw is going to try & upgrade their image & product line. You heard about their new hooks? They aren't using the Eagle Claw name on their new premium products. In the long run their success with these new lines is going to depend on how good the rods/hooks are. The rods aren't using Fuji guides, but that's not a big deal to me. They aren't on the super light side since they have T-Glass in them, but I think they chose a good look for them. I'm think they're going to be pretty successfull.

I'm more than willing to admit I'm not sure about my post. I read the attachments. The builder said it would make the action more moderate (slower). I understand that concept, but it just doesn't seem like that would always be the case. I wasn't speaking from experience, so I'll defer to a rod builder any day.