Delaware Valley Tackle

I bought three clearance ci4 in 1000, 2500 & 3000 sizes.

That early in the season the south end might be a more sure bet (as little as that applies to fishing) NY & VT have a reciprocal agreement for licenses, google the details. I got curious : https://www.dec.ny.gov/permits/6411.html

I’m an hr west, exit 29 of NYSTW

The Tatula is plenty well built for the application you mention including the level wind. Don’t misconstrue my comments about the gimmickyness (new word) of the Twing with it’s durability or suitability.

I never lube handle knobs with free spin in mind. I want them to have minimal resistance but not spin on their own. More to the OP question, the mass of the knob, friction points in the mounting of the knobs, bearing size and minor differences in lubrication will affect th e free spin.

You’ll risk breaking line and losing fish. If that doesn’t matter to you, have at it. The only fathomable fix would be JB Weld, drilled and polished. The cost and time will far exceed the proper repair.

I agree with not wanting to lose a fish after working for bites, but the opposite is also true. You have to get bit before you worry about landing fish. From that viewpoint, I like mod/fast graphite rods for steering square bills through cover, ripping traps and cranks through grass and throwing inline spinners. I have a custom lamiglass SR 705 for deep cranks. I have also used fast action rods in a pinch and never had a problem landing fish on cranks.

Replacing the guide is a must.

You should produce a show as the rockin’ angler. Couldn’t suck any worse than Charlie Moore. Lol

You’re right for not locking down a drag, but the AR takes the brunt of the force not the gears. Winching fish in instead of using the rod to fight the fish stresses gears unnecessarily.

S glass is the higher modulus. E is for inexpensive brute strength. Here’s an explanation: https://www.google.com/amp/s/swiftflyfishing.com/a/s/blogs/news/fiberglass-fly-rods-e-glass-s-glass-and-why-not-all-fiberglass-fly-rods-are-created-equal

Ya, everyone has a favorite way to fish but avoid the temptation to force feed a bait or technique when there are obvious better choices for the circumstances.

The DC so d is loved yet the ceramic bearings sound is despised. Personally I don’t care either way as long as I can get my bait where I want it.

They’re just another contracted import reel. Nothing special or horrible either way. They tend to be priced higher than comparable competitors offerings.

Our family owned a lube oil distributorship for years. Something I can tell you with certainty is that there is no magic in any of it, especially a comparatively mild application like a reel without high speeds, pressure and heat.

Both power and action should be considered in choosing a blank for a given application. If you’re working with a builder, it’s reasonable to expect them to guide you through picking components. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to discuss a build.

For raw distance, spinning tackle alone is a step in the right direction. 8-10# braid on a full spool and rod that loads properly. I like fast action, soft tip rods for jerkbait and top water.

I insert the word “initially” bends as the more force applied , the deeper the bend. I feel this helps keep the separation of power and action as you asserted.

At lest you got the joke.

Why would a hockey player want a custom bat?

This is unnecessary. Alloy gears are actually harder than brass. They only become a problem if misused by over loading them as they won’t bend but will eventually shear teeth off. The perceived roughness is due to the light weight of the reel. A light weight reel transmits vibration more readily same as a light weight rod.

In the future weigh each component individually then before and after epoxy finish. The results are interesting.

Use a schematic and take pictures as you go. Have plenty of space to work and enough time to complete the job. Probably a couple hrs first time. I’m not familiar with those spray lubricants, but the shimano grease and bantam oil in containers are good.

With the readily available travel blanks on the market I can’t imagine using the old metal ferrules.

Thanks guys found some at scheels