S Hovanec

I cut them into short lengths and use them as fire starters.

CP is not required for metallics, but it does help with bubbles. Finish applied to metallics where CP is not used will release bubbles that can be trapped when the epoxy cures.

Find a local builder with a rod lathe. They can chuck up the whole rod and shape the grip how you want.

I had issues back when I had 2 Garmins. I ended up getting a D/F transducer for the transom and ran it at a different frequency than the bow. Had the same problem when I went to my HDS-5/HDS-7 set-up, even tho I was told they wouldn't interfere with each other. I just run the transom 'ducer at a different frequency. on a side note, I only saw interference when I was in 20' of water or more. That happened to be the depth that the cones crossed on my 17' boat.

none of the above

I may be in the minority here, but Cashion and high-end rods don't belong in the same sentence. I had one in the shop for a guide repair and I can't see what all the hype is about. It was one of the most poorly assembled and finished rods I've ever seen.

very few offerings. Go custom and you'll have your choice of actions and powers.

Wrap a piece of masking tape around the blank where you want the cut to be. Use a cut-off wheel on a Dremel or a flat file to file away the section that's bad.

Bingham usually has something going on. Don't remember if it's on black friday or cyber monday.

Here ya go.

HATE the guides on the Rage. Get the Avid. You won't be sorry.

Go to a sign shop and have them wrap it in black vinyl....or have them do something badass like carbon fiber. My buddy just did these for another friend.

D Drill press will work, but boring it on a lathe works way better.

What DVT said. I had a very good customer order a swimbait rod. before I was was finished with it, he ordered a A-rig rod also. He was shocked when I handed him only one rod when he ordered two. I saw no reason to build him another rod when the one I was building would handle both tasks just fine. He was pleasantly surprised after he fished it.

For the life of me, I can't understand why they cost more. All I can think is that they are the latest thing on the market (as far as production rods go), therefore they feel people will pay more to have it. The cost of a #4 Alconite is the same as a #6. They are no more difficult to work with, in fact, I prefer wrapping micros to larger guides.

done

Sorry, I was thinking FLW. 18'/150hp minimum.

Aren't there some boat requirements for BFL tourneys? Minimum length and HP?

She's not a pink kind of girl, besides, she already has a 6'8" MXF SCIV and wouldn't want to go backwards! Haven't handled the 2013 blanks yet. I have a 6'10" MLXF on order though. Gonna give the wife my 6'9" MLXF SCV once I get the new one built and probably sell her SCIV MLXF.

I like my 6'8" MXF fuschia rod but it may be going up for sale shortly. I have a new 6'10" MXF SCV that needs built and I REALLY REALLY like my SCV's!! I figure I can sell the pink one to pay for the guides for the new one!

Finally got the good pics uploaded.

Triumph = Mojo........same SCII Blank, different color and components. Just about all of my rods are either SCIV's or SCV's. I only own 2 SCIII. One is because the model wasn't offered in SCV when I built it (7'6" MLXF) and the other one is because I wanted a fuschia rod! Yes, I built myself a 6'8" PINK Avid.

Avid 68MXF would be my choice if you don't want to drop a bunch of $. It also would make a good tube rod.

I have a jig to cut the checker pieces. Then I glue them back together and turn them on a 3/8" mandrel.

Hey John, that's not a very god pic of them. Here's one that's not much better!!