S Hovanec

Hey John, looks like you use those things a little bit! Here's mine.....not nearly as abused and John's!!

I'm a fan of the CI-4. I can't buy in to this whole frame flex thing. You're fishing line that's 6#, maybe 8# tops. If you load up the rod enough to flex the reel, the line will break or the rod will blow up first. just my opinion tho.

What some think is cork on rods, too, really isn't. I've repaired a few "cork" grips that were just veneer. Thin cork over foam. Its hard to tell til it starts delaminating.

Wish i could get good cork for $2.50/inch! Last CG-1 cork i bought was over $5/inch.......and that was 3 years ago. Haven't been able to find any that nice since.

IMO, split grip rods should cost less than identical full grip rods. They do when I build them.

Actually, I'll be fishing it in the spring! The blank showed up today! Will be ordering the guides by the end of the week.

A SCV blank and some Fuji TiSiC's to wrap on it!

Difference is in the blank. The other components, to a manufacturer, only cost about $10, if that. I'd be highly suspect of the blank.

I have a 8 year old Garmin GPS/sounder on my boat along with 2 Lowrance HDS units. I use the Garmin as my GPS because i like it better than the GPS in the Lowrance units.

What reel seat hardware is that? I've been using Batson for the few fly rods that I do and I'm not really happy with how it doesn't fit some reels.

bummed. St. Croix said that blank purchases didn't qualify.

One tip I'll give. Pour your finish from the cup on to a piece of foil. It will spread out the finish and allow it to remain cooler, thus extending the pot life. Also it makes bubble removal easier.

Exactly. You explained it better than I could. You're not necessarily feeling the bite, something just feels different.

My procedure is: First coat - lite build to penetrate the threads and fill the tunnels, unless I'm using CP, then I use regular. Second coat - regular build Third coat - if needed, is regular. ...only if there is a dust bunny that lands in the second, is it needed!

It must be awful cold in your shop if you need to let your rods turn for 24 hours. I set my timer to turn off at 4 hours for regular build and 6 hours for lite. I'm usually putting the second coat on at 8 or 10 hours. At 24 hours, you're approaching the time frame where you need to scuff the first coat to get the second coat to bond. I agree that there was too much finish to level properly. I also apply my finish, let the rod sit, and remove the sag with my application spatula.

Very rarely do i feel a DS bite and when i do, its a small fish. Usually i just pick up the slack and there's weight.

Well, he did say reselling......that's why i mentioned it.

One thing that wasn't mentioned. Don't forget to file your Form 720 for Quarterly Federal Excise Tax.

I had one in the shop for a guide repair and I can't see what all the hype is about. It was one of the most poorly assembled and finished rods I've ever seen.

Can't go wrong with the CI4's!!

spending $650 for a reel........the rod would have to be built on a St. Croix SCV or North Fork HM. Anything less would be an insult to the reel!

I think you underestimate the weight of that boat. My 17' tin weighs 1350 dry (without the motor) and another 600 for the trailer. That 20' glass has to be pushing a ton alone.

that seems to be about what that type of boat with15hp-25hp motor is going for in my area

I don't think anyone mentioned it yet, but I'd bet every inch of wood in that boat is rotten, including the transom. That's a mighty long trip to take to pick up a rotten log.

I was gonna say the same thing. Even the crappiest Fluoro line will transmit bites good enough from only 30'. my line of choice is 10/2 PowerPro with a 18' Halo leader on all of my dropshot rods.