flechero

There are a couple schools of thought on it... technically it's lighter but affects balance in the wrong direction... (only a tiny bit) If you are using burl cork then I would suggest it as burl is over 2 times as dense and heavy as regular cork. It also gives the builder the opportunity to shape the 2 grips differently for function and comfort instead of a long straight grip (or long wavy grip). And it will cause your rear hand to be placed in the same spot more often and likely increase your casting accuracy as well. They look cool- at least to me. I haven't had anyone use one of my rods that didn't comment on liking the split grip better than a straight one. Since it's a custom, why not get a unique look? I'd say go for it, I can't imagine that you won't like it.

Have you looked at the MBR785C yet? The 784 and 785 have always been my favorite worm and jig rods... nice tips and plenty of backbone. If 7' is your preference, the 844 is probably what you are after. The catalog lists an 845 but I've never seen it in a store. (and it only is listed in a GL3)

I also use amber in all conditions. They say gray lenses in bright sunlight but the amber still produces better contrast. For my eyes, amber allows me to see deeper into the water regardless of cloudy or clear. The only drawback to amber on the bright days is that they aren't normally as dark as grey lenses. If you buy good quality glasses, you will have more than adequate protection from uv light, which is the most important thing.

Sure there is... at each creek mouth if water is flowing. And don't forget that wind also creates a lot of current. (The weedy flats will likely be a great place on a windy day.)

That, fellow members, is a strong statement. (and one that is sure to bring joy to bud and roadwarrior. ...lol)

Loomis MBR784 50 MG 14# XT 6" zoom lizard 2/0 XX Owner (5102 ) 1/8 tru tungsten weight.

Thanks, I appreciate that. I'm not a fan of hook keepers, never even used them on my factory rods... I had several Loomis rods over 10 years and not even once did the hook keeper get tried out. For single hooks, I always use the bottom of the reel... it is a perfect place and also keeps the hook point covered (by the spool). on the rare occasion I need to hook trebles, I just use the top of the reel, above the eye. On the reels that don't have ample space below the spool, I use one of the holes in the handle. I have yet to a hook keeper one on a personal rod I've built, but have put a few on rods built for others. I do use them on all my flyrods. (no damage caused by flies)

Great news, Alpster!! Just another reason to stick with Loomis! I just wish they would offer more blanks that they sell as rods... I have another IMX and another GLX need (ok, want). ..lol justtrying, Although I spend a bunch of money on this "hobby" of rodbuilding... it has saved me money in experiences like you described. I sold all my factory rods, and used that money for blanks and components... I ended up with more (and I like to think better) rods and money left over. it's a win-win, I used the excess for reels... now I have new rods & reels and the monkey is drunk with satisfaction... ;D

Alpster & Mike.... Just wait, most people think it looks better in person than on the map. ...lol

Why do so many people think that there has to be some lead up in terms of gradual weights? I remember only last year a green fish that was 3 lbs bigger than a current record and 4 lbs bigger than anything caught in years. I believe there is a smallie or two out there (probably more than that) which are record fish, they just haven't been caught. No doubt in MY mind, it's out there...

The premier series has 5 graphite and 2 glass models. the ones that begin with "PC" are graphite and the ones with "PGC" are glass.

It's heavily speculated that they are now using batson blanks... If you have a particular blank in mind let us know, lots of rodbuilding experience here to help you select something.

Thanks, the ramp is way easier to do with epoxy gel. ...lol The only reason threadmaster worked so well for me is that the eva check was almost to the reel seat threads... it will suspend nicely at the bottom to fill and hold a good angle into the blank but at the top it's just too thin to hold itself as you want it. Another thing I have done with it is to build up to the height you want (or close) and let it cure then come back and shape it down with a small file (I used the file I use for guide feet about 1/8" flat needle file) then a paper thin coat to shine it up and slick it off. It ends up as clear as if you did it in one coat and you can't see the lines you stopped and started at in the first coat. The shikari blanks are almost gone... but very soon the new ATC blank (that bought shikari out) will be up and running. They allegedly have some "big hitters" from the industry working together on these and are supposed to be making blanks that will compare to some of the best around... I am looking forward to trying them!! Karen @ bingham can tell you a little about them if you want to know.

I use much larger (3"-3.5") framing nails, due to the girth. I also have an old pair of nippers in the boat to cut them to whatever length I need. I use nails in flukes for deeper water presentation and also in worms or lizards for t-rigs when a weight seems to turn of the bite. They actually sell a lead (saw them at academy by worm weights and hooks) "nail" which is about the size of a finishing nail... it also has ridges for stability and to make it easier to break at the needed length.

I have a Revo S. Had it a few months now and have fished it a lot. All I can say is it is a smooth, well behaved reel that is well worth $99. You can use it for anything, it has an incredible drag and will hold plenty of line. It's actually very light for what it is... I think only the TD-Z BBS is lighter in a true heavy duty low profile reel. I am more impressed with the revo than I am with my BBS - watch the flea market, it may be for sale in a few weeks. Back to the revo, it's built like a tank but handles like a jewel. I'll make you a deal, buy the Revo S and if you don't like it, PM me and I will buy it from you.

That was one of the biggest reasons I bought my champion. Who said boats don't have brakes! Whatever isn't tied down, better float!!!! Been there once.

LBH, I think both Ronnie and I had fed-ex coming from Mud Hole... they ship most stuff that way. As for Loomis, they use this address for everything, shipping, warranty and regular mail: G.Loomis, Inc. 1359 Downriver Drive Woodland, WA 98674 Ronnie, Sounds like you are ahead of schedule!! Glad one of us is! ...lol I'm beginning to think my CTS blanks are a lost cause. I owe Andy a phone call though. I need to think about what blanks I'll get instead. I have two T-series 6' 10" XF-H's on order (a 6-10 kg and a 8-12 kg... they rate em' funny over there. ...lol) I did get the crankbait rod finished (well, I still need to finish over the sticker) I kept changing my mind on it... I finished the front of the reel seat with a winding check and didn't like it so I made an eva check since this grip is eva... didn't like it so I "threadmastered" a ramp up to and over the eva check and finished it tight to the edge of the threads on the seat. That was good except the eva looked crappy under the finish so then I sanded the surface of the finish and used a sharpie to blacken and hide the eva and then refinished. ...lol under a bright light, you can still barely see the eva. ...lol I think I'll leave it this way a while, there isn't much else I can do to one spot. ...lol

No kidding, if you price them by the pound it would actually be cheaper to use tenderloin in the chili! (or even the Yamamoto kobe beef!!)

This reminds me of something I heard a couple years ago... a guide was forced to move due to family issues I think, anyway he was selling copies of his personal marked up map with pages of notes from his years of guiding. It actually could be worth it.... think about this, if you lived by lake X, would you pay $300 for a guide one day or rather buy a guides map that has 100's of spots and seasonal patterns, notes baits etc. It could have 20-30 guided days worth of info on it. We spend hundreds or thousands on other stuff to catch more and bigger fish... Food for though anyway. (and no, I don't have one)

Even in central Tx... I'm off work today- we woke up to almost 1/2" of ice. Too bad the fed-ex man didn't make it before the storm... I had some rod building supplies on the way to tide me over until it thawed out. Should have used UPS, eh' LBH? I bet they would have braved the weather to get my pkg here! ...lol Let us know when you do talk to Loomis.

I hope you are wrong... Sorry Muddy and Alpster, I have roots in Chicago.

Hmm... I call rods/reels - gear and lures- lures, baits or tackle and dollars - bucks. ...lol Not sure if that's regional or not. As for other stuff, most of it makes sense like jigs, crankbaits named for how they were worked, spinnerbaits and buzzbaits for what they do, worms, stickbaits, craws, etc. for how they look, etc., etc.

And it may sound something like this... Avid: "ok muddy, I'm ready to learn!" Muddy: "Ok Avid, lesson #1 this bold colored N actually means 'No avid, this side up' now the other letters and plus sign in the middle are just for decoration... We sure have a lot of fun with muddy, he is the best sport in the entire family!!

And back when all this came about, what we now call tackle was referred to as BAIT. Probably some lazy people (like me) started using "tackle" as an all-encompassing term.

There is a thread on RBO about Recoil guides (tips) grooving. The guy reports using light # mono, not braid and the rod is fished for kings... I do realize that this instance doesn't make it a pattern but since the Recoil guides are pretty new, few people would have reported trouble yet and the fact that he uses mono and is already having trouble makes me think that some others (braid users) will find grooving. I posted this because a lot of you have bought high end rods with Recoil guides, you might want to clean the tips and inspect them for wear, especially braid users. http://www.rodbuilding.org/read.php?2,217611