flechero

You are pretty handy with the dremel... Nice work!

Mike, Utopian is supposed to be capitalized. On a serious note, why not drop the grudge and come back? Don't think for one second that I haven't been "dressed down" by the staff. Many of us have. (most of the time it's deserved) But I decided it was better to play by the rules than to bail out. Heck, I even tried to patch things up with muddy and avid before they quit. I had no luck but my conscience is clean. I'd be the first guy to welcome them back... and if memory serves me correctly, I still owe you a day on the water. Surely you enjoyed participating here better than just lurking in the shadows, looking for a cheap shot.

I got a wake up call on a reel I just shipped. A reel box, 12 oz., priority mail $10 :-/ I felt like I lost money on the sale since shipping is so high now. I do see your point but the shirt probably is "free" and shipping probably really is $5-$6. They SHOULD have sent a bunch of the shirts to the retailers with the reels so there wouldn't be a need to ship them separately... if nothing else, it would have been much cheaper. Not much of a sales technique, IMO... who would base a $200 purchase on a tee shirt? Certainly not me!

Nice! Welcome, and thank you Mercury, from a proud owner of several Mercury motors!!

Just remember being digital DOESN'T necessarily make it more accurate. A (cheap) digital and a (cheap) spring scale both have the ability to be way off. Weigh your scale with known weights to verify it. A gallon of water is a pretty good starting point. Depending on a few variables, a true gallon of water weighs about 8.3 pounds. if your scale is lbs/ounces, that's roughly 8/5

I haven't tried the cavitron yet, but I don't use a trailer hook on a buzzbait either. Haven't in many years and have not seen a decrease in hook ups when I switched. If they are just smacking the head or blade of the bait or short striking it, you are not listening to the fish.... that's how they talk to you. You might try some erratic moves or change speeds to see if that solves things... it always has for me.

Look for a rod with a moderate action. Some prefer a mod-fast. The effect of a mod or mod-fast is that the rod has a softer backbone, not weaker, just softer. A softer rod is less likely to pull treble hooks out and is less strenuous on the angler pulling the deep diving cranks. Almost every crankbait rod, whether glass or graphite, is mod or mod-fast. Just about every brand makes a cranking rod or a line-up of cranking rods.

Awesome deal!! Congrats!!

It's done all the time in south texas, but not for sport... they sell the deer to game ranches and as breeders. I knew a guy who used to dart deer for his game ranch... he said you had to have a veterinary license for the drugs and gun. Even with proper training and knowledge, he lost about 1 in 5, since the drugs are based on body weight and even small variances can be lethal. As far as sport goes, take a camera and get close... bowhunters do it all the time, it takes some time to develop stalking skills. If you want some adrenaline, try stalking wild hogs with a traditional bow (recurve or longbow) and only bringing rubber tipped arrows! (bludgeons or rubber blunts to the shoulder plates) Blunts are no good for deer because you will break ribs.

I probably wouldn't fish it... unless grandpa is still making them and you can get another. I'm sentimental about stuff like that. Cool to have something handed down like that!

That's a question that only you can answer.... it's purely a preference as to what is most comfortable for you. If I were you, I'd just attach a lighter and heavier reel (than you have now) and see how each feels... then go one lighter or heavier and see if it gets even better. You'll have a preference, one way or the other, once you start.

neither does the spinnerbait, buzzbait, etc. but they seem to fool plenty of fish. How many plastics really look like real stuff? Only a few that I know of. I use the super flukes almost all the time. The only times I'll use the smaller flukes is on a c-rig for deep finicky fish. I have no trouble catching lots of LMB and SMB on super flukes. Even small fish tear it up. Super flukes cast extremely well and have great action if hooked and worked properly.

and 10% of us really do!

I like and do use both at different times of the year. Compare them like XL and XT, just not quite as dramatic a difference and the super mono is also very clear. I use it sometimes in the winter since it's more limber than comparable diameter lines, other times in gin clear water. It's not much for abraision resistance so retie often and keep an eye on it in timber or rocks.

Sure can. you can use a cardboard box and a book for a "wrapping machine" You can make or improvise just about everything you need to make rods... even really nice rods.

The actual number is unimportant... but the answer is "one less than I need!" Ever notice how even when you have enough, you can always think of one more you need?

The type of cover really is less of a factor than the distance you are flipping. Like I said- at close range, a mod-fast is the more popular choice... and 9 feet is definitely close range.

It will work, but I think there are better options. I don't (wouldn't) use an X-fast for flippin. Most flipping rods are mod-fast (but some are fast) the slower the action, the more shock absorption you get. And when you set hook at close range, a little give can save a lot of things. (muscles, rods, line, bent hooks, etc.) An X-fast will pitch nicely though, but that's another thread. Pitching is usually done at a greater distance and that's why the X-fast isn't detrimental. The rod you listed will work but it will be harder on you, the fish and the other gear being used. If you plan to flip much, I'd suggest you look to a mod-fast or fast in the heavy power.

They have them at Academy... shockingly enough it's called a rod holder... or you can buy the entire set up... it's a wading belt with rod holder. ;D

There are a few options. Most people don't mind filler, though... most rods are full of it and people either don't mind or don't care. There are a couple synthetic alternatives and a couple blended cork (burl) alternatives. Several of them are commercially available as rings for rod handles. All have pros and cons, of course.

OK... I had a MBR784C IMX replaced with the phone call alone. And they sent a prepaid shipping reciept for the return, just like the Xpediter, except with no money from me. I had a CTS blank warranted with a pic only.

Check with your local tackle shops... most have a person they use for repairs. You'll spend more in packing and shipping it one way that the replacement guide and labor should cost.

Mostly aesthetic, yes, but in some cases it's also feel. I won't say that the cheap cork won't hold up just fine... I've had a few rods with horrible cork that looked like crap and stood up to over 10 years of hard use, and were still structurally sound. I think the "edges " of all the pits will wear quicker but the handles in general, will last longer than you will keep and use the rod. Many people find the larger pits uncomfortable. I've had a couple of them where filler was required for comfort. The pits and veins attract dirt, sweat and fish slime... which will all turn black over time, further detracting from the look of the handle.

If so, it sounds like they owe you a head unit at minimum. Honor the gift with some effort. 10 days sucks but it's better than you having to buy another motor in a week when the duct tape lets go.

Premium cork has no flaws, pits, veins, etc. More than likely, your cheap rod's cork hasn't lost the filler yet. Companies use cork filler/wood filler to make cruddy cork look like fine cork. Part of the problem is that good cork is so hard to find and the other is just cost... cork with no flaws is so rare that it cost about $4-$5 per 1/2" ring. Anyway, cork can be re-filled quickly and easily if that's what you like.