Darren.

No problem using spinning setups whatsoever! You can do all of your requirements on them. I'm also a kayaker and prefer shorter rods as I'm often in close quarters where longer rods just won't work...for now 6'6" is the max for me, 5'9"-6'3" are the sweet spots. You pick the lengths you are comfy with, I'll just suggest the actions. ML/XF M/F MH/F As for line, I find braid to be easiest to manage on spinning reels. I use 10# and 15# yellow Power Pro and Power Pro Super Slick 8. I always use leaders anywhere from 4-15# test depending on the technique, and mainly Yo-Zuri Hybrid (green).

Have to agree that you'll want to go used, or look for end-of-season sales, previous year models, etc. I started out with a $300 fishing kayak bundle from BJ's Wholesale Club. It worked, but quickly showed me what I wanted in a yak -- and most importantly what I didn't want. It was a 10' yak (sons still use it) and was easy to maneuver, easy to transport, etc. What I discovered was that I wanted, no, needed to stand often to fish. It's what I like to do, so staying seated 100% of the time was tough on me. Anyhow, I don't regret it as a starter kayak at all. But I'm 100% happier with my 12' Native Ultimate. Far more customizable, stable, and a hybrid between a kayak and canoe - it meets my needs. I might change up if I had money to spend - something like a Hobie Pro Angler....

A few years ago I filled up on gas at a local station here in Virginia... Next day my wife checked our account and someone used my card at two stop-n-go type stations in the Houston area down in TX. Bank of America reimbursed us. I remembered there was a "shady" vehicle parked there at the gas station. Felt like it was watching me, up to no good. Likely they were skimming the signals from the card swipe. This was prior to having to enter your zip code.

I'm with the less is more folks here. I have taken 6 rods kayak fishing and it was a clown circus. Four was more manageable, three is better, two is ideal. My main setups are now one bait casting setup and two spinning setups. It was 2 and 2. So I'm going to see how I do with only three rods this year. (of course I have more, my sons use the rest) But realize for me that I primarily fish soft plastics, not hard lures, no A rigs, occasional cranks and swimbaits. I don't fish tournaments, so money isn't on the line for me, just the pure enjoyment of the sport. Perhaps if I entered tourneys, had a bass boat, and was under time limits to produce, I'd need more....

Welcome aboard, Justin!

Welcome aboard, Sam!

I'd be a bit nervous using for roof tie-down points. Safest route would be to throw a strap over the kayak. I wouldn't trust the well nuts with highway speeds, variable winds buffeting the yak...

Congratufreakinlations, man! That's a BEAST!!

Depends on what you're wanting to attach. Something heavy? I think the ⅜ is "standard" for kayaks, so you're probably ok with it. And I'm surprised your local Ace has them in stock! That's great!

Welcome aboard! I like to start out folks with a simple spinning outfit with the rod around 6'6", and a 2500 size reel. Since you're starting out, you don't need to spend much. Next, if the combo you buy is already spooled with line, buy some Gamakatsu Splitshot/Drop Shot hooks in size 1/0 (is on the package). Tie a hook on to the line with a Palomar knot. Buy some stick worms (Yum Dingers, Bass Pro Stik-O, etc.) When you're at the dock/shore, bend the worm in half and stick the hook through the middle, perpendicular. Cast it out by laydowns (downed trees in the water), bushes overhanging the water, docks, etc. Fish it slowly and hang on. That's just one recommendation of the many you'll get from folks here. Try the ones that make the most sense to you. I'm only touching on soft plastics.

Agree with others, none for well nuts. The rubber should tighten enough to stop water.

Same here, Lou.

I tried the Eagle hooks with the wire weed guard, not sure if I tried VMC, but the Eagle were AWFUL! The wire guard was too stiff, ended up cutting it off. Today I tie my own weedguard mainly on 1/0 Gammy splitshot/dropshot hook (mainly because I've got a lot of them. I use 20lb coated Malin wire, wrapped around the shank just below the eyelet with braid I've got laying around using a snell knot. Then I dab it with superglue, then some shrink wrap. They've been awesome. Will amend this post with pictures shortly. Top clockwise: 3/0 Gammy WGF hook bottom, BPS wacky jig hook (guard a little short on that one, and my favorite a the 9 o'clock is 1/0 Gammy SS/DS. EDIT 2/25: I've been tying more of these on the 1/0 and 3/0 hooks. The ones pictured are big, chunky, but this time I used some leftover 6# Fireline which is a much thinner/smaller wrap, so it looks much neater than those pictured.

I've fished yellow PP w/o a leader and yes, it certainly catches fish. That said, I always tie on a leader now. I've said it before and I'll say it again, a leader is great if for nothing else, to save money on expensive braid. I can retie hooks/lures on a 6' leader numerous times before I even cut into the braid to tie on a new leader. So there's cost savings in the mix, abrasion resistance, and probably a few other things. Whatever you decide, enjoy it. Life is too short to worry about braid + leader vs. braid + no leader Some of us love a leader, some of us don't.

Holy smokes. I've caught autocorrect a few times on that very item. Clearly I missed it this time.

Welcome aboard, Gray!

Welcome aboard, Ashley!

Sure do! I've got a MinnKota C2 30 on mine, rigged in a similar manner to BassYaks. If I had the money, I'd just buy one of their rigs... While it isn't absolutely necessary, here's where a motor setup shines: elbow problems! My first foray into yakking was great, but I soon developed elbow issues to the point where I had trouble lifting a coffee mug without shaking like a leaf in pain. Paddling exacerbated the issue, so the motor alleviated that aspect, allowing me to get to my spots w/o heaping more pain on me. Since then I've resolved the elbow issue, but continue to motor because I absolutely love it. I don't have to break out my paddle in windy situations, and so on. I can move to spots while fishing along the way. In heavy weeds, or super shallow situations, I paddle around, but that's it. So to me, it is worth it. I absolutely love motoring around in my yak.

That's a beast! Get a weight?

Welcome aboard!

It should be said that this isn't a hard and fast rule. There are those (Gary Yamamoto, included) who tie on a very long leader because they *want* the knot to be on the reel when they're getting the fish closer to the boat. This way, when it fights at the boat, you have no leader knot to worry about as it is on the reel. It's as if your leader is the mainline because it is so long. I think Gary ties on one something in the range of 20 feet. To each his/her own.

Everyone's experience is different as to leader or not. You can think of it this way: using a leader saves your braided mainline from depleting with every hook/lure retie. Whereas with a leader you can perform multiple reties before you have to cut and tie on a new one. The argument can go on ad-nauseum as to tying one or not. It can be as heated as Shimano vs. Pflueger. Try it out, you may find it indispensable to your style of fishing. I know it is to mine. And I've tried no leader. I just prefer to use one.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard!

On the norm, when there's chop or a good wind, I go for the weighted wacky rig, otherwise my braid will blow with the wind/wave and my weightless worm will never sink. As for an exaggerated fall, I believe there is truth to that, but I've done considerably well weightless. I like using salted baits like the GYCB Senko, or BPS Stick-O, they have nice shimmy/wiggle on the fall. Most of the time I find their fall rate entirely acceptable, especially in shallows.