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Mitsubishi tried that tactic with Best Buy a number of years ago when Best Buy broke a rule about advertising sale prices on Mits products. They eventually regained their senses a few years later.

A Garcia 4000 or 5000 series reel from the 70's.

I'm trying to come up with something similar for my 12' semi V. This cabela's deal has the squeeky wheels moving in my brain with some idea's.

You were supposed to save that for the night we have the campfire and tell spooky stories while we drink beer illegally in a dry county.

As Dr. Innuendo would say, Real men don't need the KY jelly.

This boat was light until I added the floor, TM front deck, TM and a battery. It would be far too heavy to put into a pickup without assistance either at home or at the lake. This was my first idea though I was thinking about 6" pvc. How exactly did he bolt the pvc pipe to the boat? My concern is not having bolt holes drilled below the waterline.

I See it as BPS merely covering their butts in case a bunch of folks show up wanting Shimano products as part of their trade in deal. It does state they are opting not to be a part of the youth program, not charities in general.

I also left off the old Mr. Twister original twister tail worms. Quite a selection we had back then huh? ;D

Those Berkley Frenzy crankbaits with the really bad photo finish on them.

Out of business. Obviously not good enough to keep them in business. I vaguely remember that boat brand. It almost looks like they splashed an old Procraft hull and stuck their own cap on it. That's a wood constructed boat so be very, very careful and thoroughly check the floors, decks and especially transom.

and the fiberglass boat package probably weighs more than the aluminum. What that aluminum boat doesn't have is a hull that's been designed with lift components built into the hull. Fiberglass boat manufacturers utilize air pressure built up under the hull to help lift the hull up out of the water while the engine is pushing the boat forward. Removing wetted surface area = increased speed. An aluminum boat can also be designed that way but the metal fabrication costs to do so drive the costs up and thus, push the price of the boat out of the majority of aluminum boat buyers pocketbooks.

The deck on the front only holds the TM. The actual floor I put in is only about 3" above the bottom. I'm really trying to avoid any sort of out rigger deal.

This is my little squirt boat I bought last May and fixed up. It's 12 footer with a 36" wide bottom. The question I have for aluminum boat guys is this. I'm thinking about adding some side sponsons made of .063 sheet aluminum. Each sheet would be approx 48" long and approx. 12" wide. I would bend the aluminum at approximately 90 degrees right in the middle and bolt it to the side of the boat. This would give me approximately 6" of flat surface extending out from the boat on both sides at the waterline which technically would widen the boat by 12". I realize I may have to have the front leading edge raised slightly higher than the back to keep this new "side fin" from digging into the water when the boat is underway at higher speeds when I'm moving from spot to spot but I'm wondering what anyone's thoughts are or if someone has done something like this differently to gain more stability with a narrower boat. BTW, getting a bigger boat isn't an option right now.

The Pflueger Patriarch is doing just about everything I need in a reel although I could be convinced to test drive a Calais.

I could put tackle I used 30 years ago into the hands of a newbie bass fishermen and he could still catch plenty of fish IF he's spent the time to gain knowledge from all the sources available today that weren't there 30 + years ago. It's all about the educational side of the equation. Boats, motors, rods, reels and tackle have all advanced but none of that makes a lick of difference if the angler using it has no knowledge of how to place himself into a position to catch fish or how to use the equipment properly to begin with.

The key word here is "similar" hull design. Because they're built in a mold, fiberglass hulls can be tweaked and modified for speed far easier than aluminum can and still keep the cost on aluminum down. There are some performance aluminum builders out there, Express is one.

I had a Virgin mobile PAYGo phone. The thing came with a 2 year 12 cents a minute charge per call. It wasn't bad. Then the contract ended. The price went up to 25 cents a minute. I was also using the phone more often. I found a Sprint plan at $45 dollars a month with 450 minutes, weekends free. I barely use my minutes. Too bad you can't sell them ;D

Guess I shouldn't have posted my daily music play list because I was hit by a ground swell of PM's wanting to fish in my boat.

The Big Piney river runs right through the FLW grounds. That river has outstanding LM and SM fishing. There are also canoe liveries very close to you for either the Big Piney or the Gasconade river, another great fishing river for LM and SM. I'm adding that a friend of mine in construction did some work down there on the base grounds a number of years ago. There are some ponds on the property down there that have fish in them. Might want to check that out.

I think you'd best start by assessing your desire and abilities to fix and/or repair a 20 + year old boat and what is your financial situation like to make those repairs should they arise not long after buying the boat. Much like buying a 20 year old car, a boat the same age is just as likely to break every time you turn the key on it as that car regardless of what condition it was in when you bought it. Wiring, plumbing, motors, switches, trailer components, etc. that have seen 20 + years of service are all likely things to break. I own older boats for the price, a love of working on boats as well as pride in enjoying what I've fixed or fixed up. Just know that despite the lower upfront cost of an older boat, there can be a higher backend cost in operating and maintenance. As already stated, take someone along familiar with older, wood construction boats and for goodness sake, have the motor checked out by a legitimate mechanic.

Good luck. Garnet has it right though, those motors used to be nicknamed "Merc Thrashers". Noisy son of a guns even on a good day.

Is this the dealer you bought it from? What work are you having done?

I don't use Stabil anymore. Seafoam works much better and also has the advantage of being a decarbonizer at the same time.

Suspending jerkbaits would not be my choice in muddy water during the pre-spawn. For those baits to work, the fish have to be able to see the lure at some point. I think I'd be sticking with something like a jig with a trailer. If water temps were above 50, a wide wobbling crankbait like a Wiggle Wart or a spinnerbait with Colorado blades would be another choice. Definitely slow them down and work around cover. Cold, muddy water is not an ideal fishing condition especially if water temps are around 50 or below.

Is the state of Florida a point? It most certainly is.