Robert Riley

I've used Sunline's Reaction FC. I love it, but it's pricier. I actually will use 12 copoly, but I'm also on a copoly binge at the moment.

You could go the leader way, and have braid on all with leaders in varying lines. OR, you could have braid and copoly haha. It can depend on what you do though. If you fish cover, you need heavier braid, if you fish clear highland reseviors, youre gonna want light fluoro. I'm from the Midwest, so I have 14lb fluoro for jigs and 12 copoly for cranks and spinnerbaits.

I use it on my swimbait and cranking rods. I've found it casts very nicely, but has less memory issues. Kind of like the best of fluoro and mono, without all the issues. And it's usually cheap to boot!

My primary cranking rod is a new Veritas 2.0, good stick, especially since sensitivity isn't critical in cranking. So I'll second the veritas's on TW right meow.

Is there a relationship between stretch and sensitivity? I'm actually legitimately thinking of doing a special topics course for my undergrad on this stuff, I studying engineering physics at Illinois

Sniper is the best, close second is tatsu. Best bang for your buck is gonna be Seagaur Red Label. You may also want to look into stretch factors depending on your application

I'm surprised no one every says this, but go check out the flea market on this forum, i was looking for a swimbait rod a few months ago and I found two almost right way.

^^^^^ what he said. I can attest to the quality of Fenwick elitetech spinning rods, I have a 6'9 M-XF that is great for presenting light baits. I use it for shakeyheads, wacky rigs and light t-rigs

I'll say the 734 like my friends above. But if you throw weightless flukes a majority of the time, then you'll probably want to downsize to the 733.

So I've heard arguments for using higher priced fluoro, but when it comes to higher pound test/applications, I've noticed people tend not to use the more expensive stuff. Does sensitivity just drop off with higher pound test or what?

I generally use a trick worm or senko. If the craw bite is on, I've used a rage craw.

I didn't like the sensitivity, but that's compared to my dobyns champion extreme haha. I'm not super worried about bottom sensitivity with my cranking rod.

University of Illinois! A friend of mine just graduated from Murray.

This is pretty much what I have, I have a SC Premier instead of the TI. The set up may be expensive, but it'll last you, and Muskie is expensive in the first place haha.

I feel like every lake that my college sends me to is one of these "fickle lakes". I may be stubborn, but I know advice when I hear it, thanks for the tips.

I personally think there is a system, but fish will bite regardless. My top three are a H-XF for jigs and plastics, a M-F for single hook reaction baits, and a M-XF for finesse. All use the lightest possible fluorocarbon (17, 12, 6# respectively). I've always believed that the softer the rod action, the more forgiving it is. So for trebles--moderate, and moving single hooks--fast. Jigs and plastics, X-fast!

Collegiate discount!

When I said trophy hunting, I just meant switch my tactics to find bigger fish, since I'd already have a full bag.

So, ya buy one? The BB1 is an awesome reel! I have a 7:1 I use for mono topwaters and jerkbaits, and a 5.1:1 for deeper cranking. If you are gonna be throwing a lot of different lures on it, I'd suggest upgrading to a BB1, as it has an external dial for on the fly brake adjustments.

I'll get it for $45, but no hoodie. I placed the order within 20 minutes of getting paid haha. If it's not spent on tuition or "soda pop" it's spent on fishing stuff, such is life.

You bring up a good point. I dont want to go here, but I will, so let's not let this get out of hand. If I throw an A-rig, I'm bound to get a limit, and then I'll be able to effectively start culling or change my game and go trophy hunting. Also, is there anything that will dictate what plastics I should put on? First thing I picture is MoneyMinnows ($6 for 5) But I can get Havoc Beat Shads for ($2 for 8). Much better deal, obviously.

I'm actually using my muskie rod which has 80lb Suffix Performance Braid. So that should be no prob!

Not sure yet to be honest. How many should I bring then? I was gonna take 2-3, but if they get hung up a lot. i guess I might need more.

Hey guys, I'm fishing down at Table Rock this April. I'm going to have an A-rig as one of my options, but I have no experience with it. Fill me in! 1) Any specific rigs (brand) to stay away from? 2) In MO, I believe you can only have 3 hooks. So just buy some spinnerbait blades instead? And silver I assume? 3) Does the kind of softbait matter that much? And you use jig heads right? I wanna buy one soon and just try it out before, obviously.

You might want to consider RAWOutdoors swimbaits, they're on the cheaper side and I love em.