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iabass8

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Everything posted by iabass8

  1. The zillion SV TW spool is a much, much better than the Tatula SV spool.
  2. I know what you mean but again..call the actual store you bought it from. E-mails and online help won't get you as far as actually talking to somebody at the store.
  3. You read that wrong. It's called zero adjuster. It still has a CC knob adjuster but it comes pre-adjusted from the factory so all you have to do is move the brake dial on the non handle side plate to your liking. They have that feature on the Steez SV TW's. On the few I have, it comes set correctly and is actually very difficult to move so it stays in place.
  4. It's actually really easy to fix that issue but you probably just got an employee on the wrong day. I would call the actual store you are going to visit instead of the online help. You'll get an exchange that way I bet.
  5. If you ever want to network units (share way points, transducers, maps, etc) between 2 units, then get the HDS. If you are looking for a single unit , then the Elite 9 TI will work great. The 9in graph is fine. That's the minimum I would use for Side scan.
  6. That is also false. Things like stiff or soft springs and inductor length/circumference for either less or more braking are huge differences that effect the spools performance throughout all of their spools.
  7. It literally says "Tatula SV" in huge bold letters....
  8. I literally just posted a picture of the schematic for you. I can even take a picture of the physical reel if you want. The tatula SV is THE ONLY SV SPOOL THAT HAS THE LONG SHAFT. It always has and always will. EVERY single other SV variant spool is free floating EXCEPT the Tatula SV. There is only ONE version of the spool and the above pictured is the ONLY one that there is.
  9. Yes. The Zillion G1 SV spool is a much better spool than the Tatulas SV spool. Smoothness is relative but if you add 2 bearings instead of bushings to the levelwind it improves the reel's retrieve. However, if you clean the bearings really well in the Tatula, it will improve your distance.
  10. Wrong again. I also own one...
  11. They do participate. Just like all their other sales, call them directly and you will get the discount for the “excluded items”.
  12. The SV Tatula spool loos like this also with the attached spool shaft...its not a free floating spool.
  13. First of all, you're agreeing with somebody by saying a "full axle" reel casts better than an "sv Style free floating". The reel in question, the tatula SV, is a "full axle spool", not a free floating design. It is not the traditional free floating spool that daiwa uses /w it's SV spools. A free floating spool isn't an SV spool. The majority of Daiwa spools are free floating. Only a few, relative to the amount of spools Daiwa has, are SV. The SV spool has been around for 5-6 years. Abu's aren't SV spools. Reels /w free floating spools still have a pinion shaft. It can be accessed through the CC knob. The spool just doesn't rely or seat on it like a "full axle spool". A spool that rides on a pinion or doesn't has zero effect on dirt and debris entering the reel. Neither has some sort of magical gasket keeping things in or out. If you're finding reels with sand and water in them, odds are they were dropped in sand or water. This will happen with any reel. Not every SV spool is created equal. Some cheaper, ie the SS SV, Tatula SV, are more user friendly and have more aggressive braking. To say a free floating spool doesn't cast far is nonsense. Drop a HLC, R+, or a 1016 in a reel and you'll cast further than you'll ever need to. OP, any of them will work fine. Pick the one you like holding and roll with it.
  14. Shows in stock at quite a few vendors.
  15. Smoke is generally a sign of over heating or something burning/melting under the cowling. If you got it checked out last year and it was ok, it was probably just water vapor. The print out the tech ran, or should have ran, will give you the temps of each bank. Assuming he looked at them and they were in spec, it was probably fine. Etecs will "smoke" when the water temp is warmer than the air temp. It's just water vapor that disappears as fast as it comes out. Totally normal. I have a '17 etec that will do it in the AM when it's 60 degrees and the water is 75. Goes away as the day goes on.
  16. The engine, according to what you've provided, is mounted too LOW, not high. For starters, a 19ft boat isn't going to perform as well as it should /w an undersized motor. Your speed of 36-38MPH is 10+ MPH TOO SLOW for what it should be moving at. I would be more concerned about that at the moment than a 2mph fluctuation. If he's seeing not seeing an RPM drop, it could be his electronics aren't correct. I would be way more concerned about the engine losing 10+ MPH top end from what it should be at. If your numbers are correct, his motor is 5 inches too low and is putting a lot of strain on the motor.
  17. You still haven't said if the engine was losing RPMS when it was throttling down. No a shop doesn't need to drop and engine down if you know how to. If you don't, then yes they do. Will it solve this issue? Possibly. Judging by how your friends boat is set up he might have a whole lot more going on. If his set up has been that off for however long he's owned it, it could do a lot of internal harm to a motor.
  18. Why not just raise the motor up a hole or two and go from there...that engine should have 3 bolt holes on each side that the motor is bolted into
  19. You want the prop shaft 3.5in below the pad of the boat. Sounds the engine is mounted way too low if you're doing this correctly.
  20. So you're saying that you are getting the following from: Ground to pad of boat minus Ground to center of prop shaft=8 1/2 inches? You want that number to be 3.5 inches......
  21. What's the engnie height and prop to pad then? Prop is only part of the equation. Granted a 115 on a 19ft boat is underpowering the hull but you're still about 10MPH slow on what the top end should be. Start trouble shooting.
  22. 115 ETecs are supposed to be propped for 5500-6000 so he's on the bottom end. You'll lose 1-200 RPMS and 1-2 MPH in the summer /w water temps being high as well. And when you say "throttle down" that would indicate that it's droppng in RPMS so how many RPMS is it dropping? Could be boat isn't propped correctly, engine height could also be wrong. Regardless, 36-38 is way too slow for that set up unless his boat is waterlogged. Ignore the onboard speedometer. It's useless and not accurate. Make sure the GPS on his boat unit is set for MPH and knot KTS. 36-38 KTS is 47 +/- in MPH. There's a ton of reasons for why a boat drops in speed on an Etec. Check gas line, gas, pump, filter. Start there /w the easy stuff.

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