iabass8

You can buy a 17/52 used jon boat and fabricate it to that exact boat for less than 1500. No way an 82 tracker /w a patched leak is worth that.

Yes, using a dedicated 12v battery would solve this problem but it's just a bandied. Running livewells, pumps, 3 graphs and a PP on my 31g cranking battery /w each unit ran on it's own wiring to the battery gives me zero issues. Voltage drops like yours is usually bad, faulty, or too small or wiring or your battery is too small or going bad.

What size battery? is the unit wired directly to the battery? What gauge wire did you use?

Took you long enough to get one What colors did you go with? I went champagne gold on the locking nut, screws, pawl cap, and line guide. Put a black retainer around the nut on the Zillion Type R carbon fiber handle. Really like the looks of it. Steez A is a bit harder. It's more of a gun metal grey and can't figure out a good prom dress for it.

Water temperature is relative to where you live. 45 degrees seems to be the number were bass start get active and move around here. Our water temps get below 30 and freeze so a 15-20 degree swing is quite the "warming" trend while some waters might not dip below 45 all year and a 5 degree difference won't make the same impact on the fish as it does in my area.

Ha you must have really left that thing in the water if it got to the vents. As long as you didn’t run it for more than a few minutes, you’re probably fine. You can disconnect the fuel line and just pump the bulb or do it through the intake. Water will be on the bottom. Shops will do it for you quicker than you can unless you have a battery powered pump. Drain the tanks, dry them, change the separator and fuel filter, fill with fresh gas and put a full can if seafoam in each tank and mix in some startron in each tank too and go run it easy for a 1/4 tank on each tank. make sure you jack that boat up as high as it goes when you get home. Theres more water stuck in there than you think. Leaving the plug out is a right of passage.

30a seems crazy for a garmin but then again I've never used them. I have 3 Lowrances on mine and they all have as 3-5a fuse. My Ultrex uses a 60a breaker. If you have power issues with your Garmin, do yourself a favor and extend the power cord /w 10-12a marine grade wire back to the starter battery and put the required fuse on the + wire of the unit right at the battery. I use all my electronics be it from the bow or the console on their own wiring straight back to the battery and fuse them there. That or use a dedicated blueseas fuse box for your electronics down the road. LU fill is generally 33oz which is annoying because most bottles come as 32oz. Completely drain yours and fill it up /w fresh oil. Don't mix and match. 20g fuel capacity sounds low. I'm thinking you should have 24-28. My heading sensor for my Ultrex is behind me on the back deck. It's almost useless for me. I can count on 1 hand how many time's I've used the remote. I always use the foot pedal. Your seats actually look pretty good for how old they are. Good thing they are the same color as duct tape. Seats are indeed expensive. Only change them when you change out the carpet which will hopefully be next year. Your boat looks to be coming along great....except for that carpet. Good god that is awful. BUT...if she floats and runs that's all that matters at the end of the day.

They do not click.

exactly. let's throw black baits so bass can find them and use scent to mask scent from our hands or lure bass in but then color out line with black marker that stinks more than keitechs squid scent so they won't see it.... Solid logic.

Do yourself a favor and before you re-carpet the front, install a recessed TM tray. Looks good so far...aside from your choice in carpet color.

Sounds a lot like a Spun hub. A good prop guy will clean that ding up And balance it. There’s a good chance your prop shaft on the lower unit might be bent as well. Might have got lucky though. A bent shaft, down the road, will cause you a lot of issues.

All 3 have identical hardware. Both of XRK50s weight 1 gram more than Booyah. Only difference is the size of the knocker used in them. You can tell the difference shaking them. Aside from sound, they fish identically.

No, they are not identical. The XRK50 was 5/8 and the Booyah in the same frame is 1/2. The bait size, hardware, and mold are the same. The only difference is the size of the "knocker" weight in the body. The sound is different. It's subtle, but different nonetheless.

Yea. They all share (or should) the same wiring harness. Ive swapped out gagues and put the ground on the wrong post...shorted the whole boat. Blew the main fuse on the motor. It happens.

Ha, you're fine. There's (usually) a main fuse under the cowling next to or behind the wiring harness. You probably blew it. Just get a few extra and replace it.

This is a very easy problem to diagnose. Take the leads from one of the other 3 known good ones and put it on the new battery. If the battery charges without issues, you have an issue bank /w that leads on battery 2 that won't charge. If it throws up the same error, you have crap luck with batteries and need another. You should have a multimeter if you own a boat. If you don't, get one. Check the voltage on your new battery /w nothing connected to it. Clean all your connections spot clean, too. Gauging your battery voltage by what the charger says is like relying on your GPS for correct voltage. Use your multimeter for an accurate reading. No idea how the warranty on the MK chargers work or if you can repair a single bank on an MK. I use dual pro's. RED and GREEN lights are lit simultaneously for each bank if any of the following apply: A) A short circuit. The battery voltage is below 8.0 volts. C) A damaged temperature sensor on the output lead. The bank will stay in maintenance mode if this occurs.

A NIB TD-Z is a rare one. Unfortunately being rare doesn't equate to huge value. I guess huge value is relative but, for example, it isn't going to get you a Steez SV TW. These little gems go for 120 +/- used on forums. There's quite a few on ebay with prices all over the place. You don't see a lot for sale anymore though. They are amazing reels.It seems like for a while people were buying the beat up ones for almost nothing and having them painted. There's some custom gems out there. there's also countless dress up parts for them, too. It will take a long time to sell for the right price but there are certain collectors out there that look around for them. There isn't really a market value on it(BNIB TD-Z's). I would see somebody paying 250 for it but you might have to sit on it until the right person comes around. I'd be happy with 200 but if you don't need the money and the reel is in fact NIB, shelf it. The sought after NIB TD-Z variants are the Ito, Ize personal orders, A.o.i, and the Type R+. I might be forgetting 1 or 2 off the top of my head. If you're a serious seller, I would post it over on TackleTour to get it in front of the right persons face.

Xcalibur baits had people's signatures no them. Xcalibur was having to pay royalties to these pros even after they left. They dissolved the company and are now making baits under the Booyah brand thus resulting in not paying royalties. The tungsten weight in the bait is a little smaller thus the weight difference (1/2oz vs 5/8) and there is a sound variation but it's subtle. I'm holding an XRK and a booyah 1 knocker and shaking them. Sounds are different. Again it's subtle, but different none the less. It's the same body of bait. Colors are obviously different but there's apparently a rumor a lot of the colors people complained were gone are coming back this year.

Theres a few places to get doybns rod weights. the fury 735 weighs 6.55 oz. you wouldnt know it holding it though. Really balanced rod.

Well that is a dilemma if the rod is only throwing 3/8. . I use the 705cb glass for what you want to use it for but also fish around a lot of wood so I like to have a little more rod to move the fish. 704 will load a little better and cast the bait further than you need to really. If you like a little "less" of a rod loads a lot, get the 704. If you want a little more rod that will also load just fine, get the 705 glass. Both will work fine.

I agree /w adding a recessed trolling motor tray when you re-do the carpet. It's such a cheap upgrade that is worth it's weight in gold. You can use the marine grade carpet from Lowes on your deck if you want to save some money but I would suggest just getting the good stuff from Cabelas or bassboatseats.com. Just order a little extra for the bunks. Replace the bulb /w the fuel lines and make sure it's OEM. Don't get the cheap walmart bulb/lines. Cleaning the inside of the tank can be tricky. You can throw some Startron tank cleaner, seafoam, stabil and gas in the tank(after you drain the old gas out) and just let it sit in there for a while then run it. It will eventually loosen all the junk and clean itself. Use marinetex for the hull patching. Definitely recommend a Keel Guard. I think they retail for 160 ish but I found mine on amazon for 70-80$. Definitely worth it..especially for beaching. Don't try to fix the winch. Just get a new one. I recommend the Fulton if you can swing it. OEM is fine, too. Definitely check out the trailer bearings. Locktight the threads for the hook eye after you patch/secure it. For the motor problem, check all your connections and grounds on switch and motor harness, make sure nothing is touch each other or wires touch posts, etc. Bad/loose wire will do that.

I would recommend you put your requirements in the sub 8oz range for more/better frog reel options. OG zillion HLC J Dream 7.9 OG zillion /w machined spacers and drop in a TDZ R+ spool. SV103 /w an R+ spool All of those are fantastic frog reels.

You'll trailer it fine. Stopping, going up hills/ramps will be a huge issue for you.

6k is plenty to get into a 2002+ tracker. Keep looking and be prepared to take a drive if you find the right one.

The only thing you lose at top speed is depth/contour readings. Mine will pop in and out if it's glass calm at 50MPH but 38-40 is where it goes out most times. I don't run WOT if I don't know the area and by the time you see something on 2d while running on plane it was too late 10 seconds ago. That's why I don't rely on it on plane. I do believe it still reads water temp on plane though. Honestly don't remember. I'm usually just looking at speed/map. If you want the LSS-2 transducer and the splitter, you will need to get a shoot through hull transdcuer and a y-cable splitter. There's a few shoot through transducers here: https://www.lowrance.com/lowrance/type/sonar--transducers/list/?ItemsPerPage=36&SortBy=Featured&page=1&DisplayOption=List Others might chime in on which one but I would choose the puck style. There's quite a few youtube videos on how to install it. It's really, really simple. Best way is to use tape or something to hold the transducer in place, go out on the water and run it until you get the readings you want. Then epoxy it in that place. Y cable for LSS-2 I believe is part #: 000-11169-001 install is straight forward. Run both transducers to the hub pig tails and then the stand alone to the unit. Select the correct transducers. I've got an 83/200 up front on my Ultrex and really like having the DI option. I got a little interference but not terrible. I'm putting a ferrite on the wiring in the spring to clear that up. Best piece of advice for that transducer is get a quality transducer shield/holder. I've broke 2 of the 19.99 puck holder ones just leaning on it.