kschultz76

Then I think any of the rods I mentioned from St Croix or the Kistler are definitely going to work for you then.

What weights/lures are you pitching and what kind of cover? If you like your Mojo, theres a 6’8” MH/f available in the Mojo, Avid X, and LTB series. I have a 6’6” MH/F LTB that makes a good pitching stick in tight quarters. Kistler also has a 6’9” MH/XF in the Helium 3. No experience with them but the new Daiwa Tatula Rods with cork handles have a 6’10” MH as well.

I was looking for a excellent to near mint used Core 51 a couple months back, the ones I found went for close to or over $300. These reels are legendary and seem to really hold their value. I have a Chronarch 51E and a Scorpion xT 1001, I couldn’t justify that price used for the Core.

Sorry this is not quite accurate, the Curado DC like the Curado K, Bantam MGL and the Chronarch MGL have brass micro module gears.

Thanks A-Jay! Appreciate the great info, you went above and beyond. Thanks everyone for tolerating the three hijack.

No experience with the ML power but just got a 6’8” Light MH Helium 3 spinning for my wife. Like my other Helium 3 rods it’s really well finished, quality, lightweight and pretty balanced. Blank has a fantastic feel and taper. Can’t wait to fish it. I do personally wish wish they’d use the Fuji VSS seats, but you can’t have everything. And like every other cork rod made today the cork is not the highest quality. But I still prefer cork so it is what it is.

Happy with them so far? How’s the line management?

A-Jay can I ask which reels and what size those are? They look like the silver Tatula LTs. I need to get a couple new spinning reels for my wife and I’m leaning towards Fuego LTs or Tatula LTs in the 2500 5 gear ratio. If I go Fuego I’ll add a bearing under the line roller.

If swapping the handles made a difference take the knobs off and check the bearings and plastic collars to be sure they’re clean and properly lubed. The Chronarch is a composite frame, tends to Telegraph more vibration and feel then aluminum framed reels. Something folks commonly complain about, has at times been called hollow. My Chronarch cI4 and MGL reels are all very smooth and perform well.

Thats very interesting...

Lots of threads on this forum discussing this reel if you do a search to get good general info on it. A better quality reel with a better braking system will always be easier to learn on in my opinion, so it should help there. That said it’s an expensive reel to just jump right in with, and there are less expensive places to start with similar braking systems like the Citica I, Curado 70, Curado K. Personally I found my older Chronarch CI4s easier to dial in the the Chronarch MGL. After using and experiencing a lot of baitcasters for a good place to start and learn I’d recommend a Tatula SV over the Chronarch MGL, it provides better control and will be easier to dial in to get started learning. Another recommendation - start with 40 or 50 pound braid for your line, and walk about 1.5-2 good casts worth of line off the reel tied to a fence post, put some good electrical tape across the line on the spool, then spool that line back on. This contains the blast radius of professional overruns.

Totally agree, I’m not turned off to Seaguar by this at all.

Thanks FishTank and A-Jay for updating this thread with what you heard from Seaguar.

Congrats and best of luck with it. Make sure to come back and let us know what you think of after you give it a good work out. ALX is on my list to try.

No experience with the ALX rods, but hear good things about them here so by no means do I want to discourage you from that route. Im very happy with all my Kistler rods, and the Helium 3 really punches above its class when you get them on sale. Ask them and see what they recommend, but my experience with the 7’1” MH XF is that a 1/2 jig plus trailer may start to feel a tad overloaded but I think it can handle it. The taper on that rod to me is on the slow side of XF and I’m very happy with it.

Materials used in the blank construction is the biggest difference, the H3 blanks use a higher modulus graphite which makes for lighter more sensitive blanks, crisper actions, and also leads to their faster actions. The KLX rods are all a “softer” graphite, so less sensitive, less crisp, and slower actions. As noted better guides on the H3 as well. The cost difference is well justified and marginal. The H3 is the right choice between the two for a jig rod no question. The KLX rods I have are moving bait rods - cranks, topwater, etc. For my money I’m happy to have my H3 Rods on deck alongside my Megabass, GLX, and Legend Elite Rods.

Kistler Helium 3, on sale they run $220.

I have a 7’1” MH XF Helium 3 and a 7’0” Light MH Fast as well. For 1/4 oz jigs I’d pick up either depending on cover, for 3/8oz jigs the MH. For 1/2 oz jigs the MH is likely going to feel underpowered especially in cover. I’m thinking if you use mostly 3/8-1/2 oz jigs you likely want the 7’0 or 7’3” Heavy especially in any cover. You can always call Kistler or email them for their feedback. Kistler rods in my my experience are lightweight and nicely balanced, my 7’1” is just a tiny bit tip heavy but not noticeable. They benefit from you most with a lightweight compact reel. I’d be looking at a Curado 70, or a Tatula SV in your price range. If you found a deal a Chronarch MGL would be nice as well as would a Zillion SV TW. But personally I’d stick with a reel at 7 oz or under. Woukd blow your budget but i but I love my 13 Met mounted in my Kistlers.

For your price range go with the Dobyns Fury 705CB, it’s a ModFast designed for the types of cranks you’re looking to throw, should have enough give for some forgiveness with trebles, but enough power for ripping lipless out of grass and pulling square bills around wood. For those lures I do not like a really moderate crankbait rod.

For your needs a 704c or 734c Dobyns Sierra should cover though swim jigs well, and be versatile enough to do a lot more too. Based on the Lews rods you’re looking at should be well within your budget with the TackleWarehouse sale on the, right now. I generally use one of two different rods for swimjigs - Megabass Orochi XX gen 1 Diablo Spec R or a Kistler Helium 3 Light/MedHeavy Fast 7’0”. Both are great rods for swimjigs.

What’s the lowest total weight your looking to use and what’s the highest? Some rods will throw a 3/8 oz plastic or shakeyheads very well, but not be ideal with 1/4 oz jerkbaits. For me I mostly throw 1/4 oz and lighter jerkbaits with spinning tackle. I’d suggest the following based on personal experience, but these all will be better a bit above 1/4 oz. St Croix: 6’8” M/XF or 6’6”/7’0” M/F in whatever series fits your budget and grip/guide preferences. Kistler Helium 3 6’8” or 7’0” Light-MedHeavy/Fast, this is a great blank and a great combination of power/taper. Wait for a sale and you can get it close to $200. For lighter weights might want to look at the Medium power. Megabass Orochi XX Jerbait Special - I have the gen 1rod that was a regular taper, the gen 2 is now a fast taper but is likely more like a Med Fast. I’d be comfortable throwing all of that on my gen 1 and would expect the gen 2 to be better with the shakeyheads. However it’s lowest weight rating is 3/8 so may not be ideal with 1/4 oz total weight. No personal experience with them but on paper the Dobyns Sierra 682c or 683c look like good options at a bargain price right now. I’ve owned a Champ 703c and it would have been good with all but the 1/4 jerkbaits.

These guys all got it right. Learn and practice pitching with every rod n reel you’ve got, some rods make it easier then others. I can pitch with any reel I own, but I do feel the centrifugal brakes on my Shimanos overall work best for pitching. I do find it’s more comfortable with a well balanced rod and with a more compact reel like a Curado/Chronarch 50 or Curado 70, or even a Chronarch MGL or 13 Metanium/Metanium MGL. Another tip - to get the beat pitching possible you want the best startup performance possible from your spool. At a minimum that means having your spool bearings properly and completely flushed then properly lightly oiled, a full super tuning on your reel helps.

One important tip if you get the Hedgehog spool pin tool, put some electrical tape on the edge of the spool before positioning the tool and tightening the cross wrench, on some spools the shaft of the wrench can mar the edge of the spool.

I have an original Orochi XX Flatside Special and like it quite a bit. No experience with the Levante though. As I recall the general consensus has been the Levante series wasn’t a smash hit like the Orochi XX. Unless the sale price is that attractive to you like @BaitFinesse I’d hold off for the new series to be released.

Shimanos SVS infinity centrifugal brake provides more brake force at the beginning of the the cast when spool speed is higher. Towards the end of the cast it's the spool tension knob that helps keep the spool in check. Based on my personal experience I’d start with setting your spool tension tighter based on lure weight and back it off slowly till you find the sweet spot based on how educated your thumb is and how smooth your casting is. I can run my Shimanos with spool tension that allows the bait to fall relatively quickly, but not as loose as I can set my Daiwa SV reels.