flyfisher

true, but your boat would be locked in place so it might not be as big an issue. Also if your boat is super stable, it might be even less of an issue.

The pod itself is solid all around so holes needed to be drilled to mount the bracket and run the wire from the transducer into the pod. I also had two holes that i drilled in the bottom before I changed my mind on how to mount the transducer. I am actually not even sure how high the water level is on the pd so i may not even have to worry about it. I meant to check it last time out by taking the pod out while floating but i never did.

you know i will. I just wish it came with an actual manual and not a CD. I would like to take something on the water with me to learn as it is being used.

Well i got around to rigging up my brand new Helix 5 SI unit on the electronics pod on my ATAK. It is all contained in one nice easy to move unit. After doing some research aka messaging Wayne P. on here, I decided it would be best to make sure the transducer does not have any interference from the hull of my boat. It is still pretty protected but i will have to drop it in after launching and pull it out when beaching at the end of the day. I still need to silicone all the holes, used neoprene washers for now, but i wanted to make sure it all works before I finalize the installation. The battery and everything else is contained in the pod unit itself. The bracket is a galvanized corner support bracket used for cabinetry that i had to bend a little bit to make it level because the pod has a slight angle to it. Whoever came up with this pod idea should get a pat on the back because it is super slick and makes removal and installation a breeze. Anyways, looking forward to giving it a test tomorrow hopefully and then if all goes well, silicone all the holes and get it ready for my trip to the Outer Banks next week.

bungees should be banned from stores....i see people using them as a securing method way too often and i cringe every time.

Welcome aboard

it will be secure but you will still have to strap it down. I know that is obvious but i have learned to point that out sometimes lol

just put it on top and strap it down with cam buckle straps. I did it that way for a few years on my subaru factory racks. you can get a bunch of other stuff like cradles but they don't do anything other than make the kayak sit up higher and create more wind resistance. I had the J cradle type and used it for a little while but i wasn't to fond of having a sail on top of my vehicle.

i think i saw another post that he had with the write up and he works on marine stuff or something so it wasn't as big a deal I'll take the electronics pod on my ATAK instead lol

I am with you but i have to say, the set up looks pretty clean. I am brave when cutting my yak but cutting in the bottom would be hard for me to do and probably kills any warranty on the hull too.

I like the idea but the cost is a bit much for me. Also, if you don't have a trailer i think it would be one more thing to have to hook up when you get to the lake.

i like the anchor being thrown out like a grappling hook....nice set up for sure. those Feel Free Lures are getting some good press.

that is awesome. I know i have had a small brookie on my fly when doing my back cast.

The weight isn't an issue, it is the balance and managing soothing that is 14' long. Your hands being a few inches one way or another makes a huge difference. And on a SIde note, I went to go pick up some pieces to mount my transducer on my new kayak and they didn't have them in stock. So i decided to go ahead and get an upgraded unit that will hopefully make catching a little more SImple. Hopefully i can get it mounted and tested out this week....pics will be soon to follow

i like power pro super slick for my cranking needs. It doesn't have stretch so having a more forgiving rod is important.

thank you. It was something i wanted to do for years and I finally just went for it. I hope others can find a little motivation because if you want it, you can do it, even if you have to make sacrifices along the way.

I agree that the longer the series the better the chances are for GS. I have a feeling that Lebron is going to go off next game.

if she is checking out your baits then i would try to hit it at a different time of day. She has to eat at some point and you up your chances if you are there at the right time.

Well I found out about a month ago that I needed one more test to be eligible for my Virginia teaching license so I registered and took the test all in about a 2 day timespan....unfortunately i had to wait to get my results for almost a month....it as pretty brutal but i got my score today and I passed with some room to spare Looks like early next week my VA license application will be in the mail and hopefully processed quickly so i can add that to my resume.

Not sure if I can add to what everyone else has already posted but rest assured, there are plenty of us on here that fish from plastic boats. I also don't find it any different from a gear perspective that fishing from a boat. I also find rods in the 7' range to allow me better leverage when setting the hook and landing the fish. Take your time and don't rush into a decision as far as boats go, get the boat that fits your budget and fishing locations. Also don't forget to think about how you will transport the boat to and from your fishing destinations as that can impact your budget.

wow

ummmm.....yeah in the park there is world class fishing. do a search or pick up http://www.fishwest.net/flyfishing/product/BK01FFGTYG.html?gclid=CJWOzYqAicYCFVUWHwodSxcAGg#.VXo1Z2ChifQ i am not sure if areas are fly fish only though as i only fly fished out there.

that was a quick thread....

C140 is a great boat as is the C120....if i didn't need something with scuppers i would still have mine

I guess that depends on what type of species you are fishing for.....