TiNuts

I have stored my reels away for the winter in their boxes. It was ALMOST like getting a batch of new reels the next spring

I also prefer the box and keep all the boxes my reels come in. I couldn't tell you why, as I have no reason, other than I like to keep the boxes. I've been known to also keep the boxes for other silly things for no reason, small electronics being a major one. I will admit, that when I see a used reel that includes the box, I get a feeling that that reel was taken better care of than used reels without the box. I have no grounds for that feeling, I just get it. I guess if they cared enough to keep the box, maybe they cared enough to take extra care of the reel.

Happy Birthday!

I think the avid MF has a softer tip than most of the MF rods I've used. I really like it. I don't find it whippy as it does fade into the backbone pretty fast, but soft enough you're not ripping anything out of lips without effort (I'm not much for power hook sets anyway. I'll go as far as to say I like the avid 7' MF better than the LTB 7'1" MF. I think you may be happy with it. I had a 7' avid MHF for a short time and thought it was too stiff, and traded it for the 7' MF. Couldn't be happier.

I'm not an experienced tuner by any means, but I've done a handful of reels myself, and the reels that seem to have had the biggest improvement from tuning have been cheaper reels. That being said, they still didn't compare to my higher end un-tuned reels, although I did have a now discontinued bass pro reel that was decent to begin with, but after I tuned it it was amazing. I'm talking shimano smooth and castability was unbelievable for the price of the reel. I couldn't believe it, and this has been the exception with the lower end reels I've done. The higher end reels that I've tuned, there didn't seem to be a significant difference from the way they were out of the box. DVT may feel different, and I'm curious of his thoughts.

I also do the stick trick. And have just drug up whatever I was snagged on almost as often as the knot breaks.

JDM reels (or anything for that matter), is no longer JDM once they're made available in the US by the manufacturer. They are now just your everyday USDM reel. The *DM means they were made specifically for that market. Now that abu/shimano brought over products that were previously only available in japan, the JDM label is no longer applicable as they were made for the US market, and not the Japanese market. They probably only come with English instructions and not Japanese.

Personally I would use the 1000 for finesse. No particular reason, just personal preference. The 2500 seems too big to me.

If it's a ceramic bearing there should be some sort of printing along the outside edge of the bearing. There's probably not any printing on the stock bearing.

I wouldn't worry about even or odd and go with what roadwarrior said. If the idea of wear bothers you, you can put a tiny amount of oil in the brake race.

If you're not getting across the pond with a spinning reel, then you're more than likely not going to with a black max either. And the abu rod probably won't help either as they're generally pretty stiff.

I use a mix of the abu reel oil and cals drag grease. Then abu reel oil in the bearings.

Yes, the dual braking systems are designed to minimize the need for thumb control. And you're correct, centrifugal brakes are for spool over speed at the beginning of the cast and magnetics are for the end of the cast, when you're lure stops at the water and your spool keeps going. Most of my reels are mags only so I've learned to use my thumb at the beginning of the cast. Where the mags come in handy for me is slowing the spool down when it's dark and I can't see my lure hit the water and am slow to slam my thumb down.

Hedgehog studios has very thin shims/washers that I've used with success.

Ha ha. I do have a couple abus that I'm eyeing putting up for sale

I did get the 7.1. I had to buy it myself, unfortunately. I will say this will more than likely be the only one I ever own cuz of the price tag.

So I got a Chronarch for Father's Day from my not-yet-2-year old son today ha ha. It's a d**n nice reel. This is my first shimano baitcaster. My others are all Abus. I must say, there is a certain refinement and smoothness to it that is not present in any abu I own. I haven't fished it, but cast it around the yard. I haven't decided if I like it more than my MGX or not as they feel like two different reels. My MGX has a connected geary, yet smooth feeling to it, like a proper sports car. The chronarch has a not quite numb smoothness to it. Like maybe a Cadillac. Can't wait to get it on the water.

I was worried about the same thing when I got mine but when I handled it it felt like I was handling a unicorn pen. . . I find it to be very comfortable. But I also liked bass pros powerhumps.

You either need to keep practicing for the desired release point, or it's possible the brakes/spool tension may be a little too tight not allowing your line to come off fast enough and is causing you're lure to swing when you cast. When I don't have enough room to swing a rod, I do what I believe is called a roll cast. I basically hold the rod to the side, let the lure drop 1 1/2 to 2', swing the rod in a tight circle so the lure swings, and then let go at the proper release point. I usually can get a fairly accurate cast or acceptable distance. You may want to YouTube it.

The bearing shouldn't come off. There should be a plastic or fabric spacing washer that's supposed to be somewhat difficult to remove from the shaft. That should hold the bearing in place. If the spool is so tight that it pulls that washer and everything off with it, I'd take it or send it back.

I was not aware of the rebate so thank you for that. That makes it even easier. Thank you everyone for your advice.

I was asking what technique to use it for, which you answered. I know enough that using it as a top water rod, would not be an effective use of an expensive rod. I was also thinking maybe finesse? Does finesse require a higher level of sensitivity as bottom contact, or is it simply throwing lighter baits? To be honest, I want an LTB simply because I absolutely love the blue color. I would be perfectly happy with another avid, or even a lesser rod than that. The local cabellas has one LTB in stock that I have to out my hands on every time I go in there. I've had to stop myself multiple times while carrying it to the register because I couldn't justify the cost. It's also a MF, and actually I like the way my MF avid feels better than the LTB and would agree that the extra cost isn't worth it. So yes, this time I am going to pay the extra money just for the blue color. I just graduated engineering school and started a good job and I got a hiring bonus, and dammit I'm getting an LTB

I am about to buy myself a st croix legend tournament rod for graduation/Father's Day. This rod is way out of my normal price range, and probably will be the only one I get, so if I'm going to spend that kind of money I wanted to make it count. So what technique/rod rating would allow me to take the most advantage of such a nice rod (sensitivity, etc)? My current rods are a 7' MF Avid, 7'1" MHF ***, and a 7'HXF Carbonlite. My reel selection consists of an MGX 7.1, gen3 SXs 6.4 and 7.1, and I'll also be picking up a new chronarch or curado as part of this gift. I have no troubles selling any of the other rods, if necessary, although I'm a big fan of the Avid. I would like a 6'6"-7' MXF or MLXF, but not sure if that's the most effective use of a $250 rod. Thank you.

My revos have a bit of play in the main shaft that's felt in the handle. Load them up by dragging a lure through water, or better yet, a fish, and that play goes away.

Gentlemen, thank you. I now have some options to consider.