Teal

All good rods those guys were talking about, but dont over look the daiwa tatula rods . I just bought a 7'1 heavy. It retails for 159, I got it for 110. Its a great rod perfect with a 3/8 or 1/2 jig. I use it for big topwaters too. Got 50 lb Daiwa J braid on it, leader as needed. Also look a the Tatula elite series. They retail 179 and can be found for 145 - 150 on the auction site and on the bookstore site. Also to what Tom said, dobyns makes a darn good rod. I have a DX 744 that is my primary jig rod and pitching stick. amazing. But that's the only dobyns I own. They have a good reputation. Since your obviously doing your homework, wouldnt hurt to give Gary Dobyns a call and see what he has in your price range. I hear he is good to talk to and deal with.

I dont agree with any of that. Sure my cranking rod has more whip and flex to it, but I can still cast a 1/4 jig with my 7'1 heavy xf rod just as well. It loads fine, sure it likes a 3/8 better. From my experience and my own rods, I've always seen medium or mh with f or xf for soft plastics. Once and a blue moon I have seen one or two on TW labeled as a worm rod with mod fast action, but taper is subjective. While there is a standard that we judge it bu, who's to say that rod company X and rod company z agree on what an xf action is. And I don't think a rod can be too stiff to set the hook. For light and finesse plastics or even small hair jigs I use a medium with a fast action. I'm talking weightless to 3/16 weight and the plastic lure. And if it's in a lot of thick matted grass, I'll just a mh or a h

Good gracious man! I bet they are some fiesty little guys.

In one day? Hmmm probably 4 or 5 different species at the most in one day. Cant remember. We have a healthy population of bream (all sorts of sunfish and bluegil) perch, crappie, striper, hybrid, largemouth, channel cats, blue cats, flat head cats, chain pickerel, and long nose gar... a very small population of walleye. On days when the bass bite is slow and the pickerel are on fire I'll entertain them. They are fun to catch. Theres something about a fire tiger spinner bait that sets them off.

Too lazy to cut the old knot

Like I said above, my comfort zone is 6'6-7'6. But I'm really thinking about getting me a 7'11 or 8ft flipping stick to see what the fuss is about! Seen an older gentleman on Lews Page that I follow on Fb, haul in a 9lb 1 ounce fish on a 7'11 XH flipping stick... now bait monkey is sitting on my shoulder slapping me in the head until I get me one of those 8 footers. Worse case scenario I'd can sell it. Later in the summer I'll be punching alot anyways

Over the last 10 years... I think the industry standard or median length is 7 foot. 20 years ago I thought 6'6 was long and 7'2 was a flipping stick.. lol. I'm comfortable between 6'6 and 7'6. Majority of my rods are 7' to 7'3. I have a couple on the 6'6 and 6'8 side and a couple on the 7'6 side. It's purely a comfort thing and what's available out there..so I get it that a short rod would def work better in your conoe. I like a 7 footer but some of the specific makes and models that I chose are actually 7'1 pr 7'2 because that's what they have. If I have to get tech iqye specific with it, I like a bit short rod for jerk baits and top water, and a longer rod for punching and true flipping. Some times the flipping stick gets stuck on c rig, or swim bait duty if I'm on a bite that has me working a flat or a long point. Some time my 6'6 topwater rod gets small jig or q finesse worm tied to it if I'm on a do k skipping bite and I want it for a quick back up or a change of lure. It's all relevant to what you like and what you do. In general, I like a shorter stick for top waters, jerks, and any lure like a spinner bait, fluke, and sometimes jigs and finesse worms.. any thing were it gets a little tight and or if the short rod is easier for me to impart action to the bait.

If your not getting hung, you arent trying. If the jig is continually getting hung, go to a t rig of sorts. There are good wood jigs out there that may alleviate some of it and will walk over the lay downs a little better.

Almost everything as far as bass equipment is highly debatable. Everyone has a different feel for what is right for them. Good luck with the 20# line. Let us know how it works for you.

Riiiight, I get that... but theres some bites that I personally get on a c-rigged senko, zoom meat head, or centipead, that I just wont get on a football..yes instill have several bags of meat heads... not a drop shot bait for me lol . If it's a big worm, or any type of craw I most go with the football jig...skirtless for the worms. I just like the feel better. Neither is my favorite, but I dont hate em... had some quality fish over the winter with a downsized football jig. Still have some hybrid hair football jigs from North star, that flat out kill it. Football jig heads, weather skirted or not, worm or craw, are starting to make their way to the deck full time... it's just a go to search presentation...just a slow one... definately there during the winter.

Agreed with the crankin. I'm fine with a DT6 or a 2.5 square bill tho. What's wrong man? You dont like dragging a ball and chain on a long point or flat. It's boring but I'll wear a flat out with a c rig or a football jig.

Anything you would try on a MH, just upsized for heavier lures or heavy cover. Both my jig rods are 7'1 heavy. And they get a good work out on topwaters, frogs, heavier t rigs, c rigs, and heavy chatter baits and spinner baits.

Shallow water...does that count

Red shad, and motor oil used to be straight up deadly for me!

Oh I know. I had a Ram 3500 quad cab diesel for a work truck from for a long time. I miss it.

So what do u do for a homemade trailer? Here in nc, a dmv inspector would check it, and put a number on it and thsts how you get it registered.

Braid and floro can help. I've recently respooled all.my braided outfits with Daiwa J braid x8 ( only because the drug store had it for 10 bucks and power pro costed more there) no complaints with it. I I think the sensitivity lies in the lack of stretch. A tungsten weight may help to. I'm not super brand picky, I just know of a few that steer clear of. @WRB is really good with explaining lines and what will help you.

Way to go!

If you think you can get away with a MH, theres alot of options out there

This what I got from TW when I filtered in max price of 65 bucks in a heavy rod. I'm sure if you look hard enough u can find one cheaper. I'll do some digging today I'd blindly suggest the Aird. I never had an aird but I had the old procyon rods and they were nice for the 60 price range.

@Raider Nation Fisher doesnt come around alot any more so someone had to pick up the slack. ??

Dude, that rod will be far away better than what you have. Put some 30-50 # braid on it and use a leader if u want. Take it out and you will see. If I ever gaze my powells out, I'll get some more tatulas... my son is getting to where he likes my rods, so daddy (me) might get new ones.

Stay with the horse that got you here. No need to fix something that isnt broke. If it runs good and you dont see or hear any problems then why change it? Theres nothing in the world wrong with using conventional gear oil. I still do too. 200 Johnson runs fine. And my motor is 22 years old. That a my .02 but I'll leave it to the motor heads on here.

The site he mentioned has them on sale. Good trusted site.

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