rippin-lips

Tighten the cast control cap down as tight as you can with your fingers, then crank it around slowly. You should feel the gears a little bit, but not bad. If you can feel every tooth it's a bad pinion gear. If you feel it in certain spots as you go around it's a bad main gear. Might try that to see if you can figure anything out with it. You need a new spool pin though first. It is held in place by the slots on the pinion gear but it has a little room to move. It won't come out in there but should be replaced asap before it causes any damage to the end of the pinion gear. Also could be the cause of your noise.

Daiwa referrs to it as a power handle. Why? No idea.

Something easier to hold onto and reel when powering in a big swimbait fish.

The concept behind the TWS was to cut down on the angle that the line has coming off the spool and going through the line guide. Thus resulting in less resistance on the line and a gain in distance. Has nothing to do with casting lighter lures. Yeah, it probably does help in some small way but not the idea behind it. Light lure casting is mainly based on the spool weight as far as the reel is concerned. A 15g spool isn't going to cast a light bait as well as a 10g spool will.

He's talking about rod handles, but yes the RCS cork knobs have a clear plastic coating on them. Slp has some out now though that have no coating.

I've tried to stain one using a few different things and nothing worked. Cork is naturally buoyant. I guess that's why it didn't absorb any of the stains. Thus why it's used for bobbers since it won't absorb water and sink. Some of the rod builders on here will hopefully chime in, but any info I've gathered by searching online shows the same results I had. People do seal cork handles using U-40 cork sealant. It protects the cork from dirt and grime. Plus makes cleaning them up a breeze.

No, the inductor extends into the magnetic ring on the non handle side plate when you make a cast and the spool is spinning. How far depends on how high you set the mag dial. As the spool slows down the inductor retracts back down. The sv spools or 'air' brake has an inductor that extends in/out but also twists about 1/4". Sv spools also have a fairly weak inductor spring and that allows the braking to engage very easily or 'air' brake as they call it. That's why they're so controlled and don't backlash easily. Swapping out to a stiffer spring makes it take more force to activate the brake rotor and makes the spool a bit less controlled but you gain some distance. The non sv spool inductor just extends in/out. The type r+ inductor and spring is commonly swapped onto other non sv spools. Again, you lose a bit of control but gain some distance.

Air brake is just a term for the inductor on the spool. It's still a magnetic braking system.

2mm was a rough guess. I make sure that when I grab the spool and apply any pressure I can feel that it's got wiggle room. I used to set it up to where it took a little force to feel it.

I can see where it 'might' have a very small affect on a traditional spool when setting up per the lure drop method since the spool is spinning. Though very highly unlikely because it won't be fast enough to activate the brake rotor into the magnetic set plate. On the sv spools you don't worry with the lure drop so it serves no purpose. I've never done it with any Daiwa reel sv spool or not and they all perform just fine. Think about when people add a little spool tension to help in the wind or to dial the spool in perfectly while out on the water. I can bet most don't back the brakes off first. They do it on the fly. Maybe that's the technical way to do it right but you aren't missing out on anything by not doing it.

You don't need to zero the brake dial when adjusting the spool tension. There is no magnetic braking being applied until the spool is moving. Try it both ways and you can see it has no affect on anything. Been using them for years this way. Set spool tension so you have about 2mm of wiggle and you're good to go. Then set brakes high and work then down.

L egend T ournament B ass

Chartreuse viper is one of my favorite patterns. I have 1 that I use. Their color options are in the thousands for sure.

Most of the really limited colors have to be bought from Yahoo Japan auctions, or pay top dollar if someone has them on eBay. The palm side plate screw isn't too bad to change. Just have to take everything apart. It's held in place by a tiny e clip.

#2-6 in the bottom row are the limited 2017 rooster zodiac set. That actual bait is called SEKISEI INKO. Definitely a good looking set.

Being self employed has its benefits. You can decorate how you want to haha.

It's hard to get a good pic without a bad glare, but I finished my little pop-x display that I have hanging at work.

Your post clearly says you have 3 spools to try and then you proceed to ask which one will work best. Making no mention of knowing 2 are the exact same. Only that the red would match the reels accents. Add to it that you seem uneducated on things Daiwa wise between the questions you post on the two popular sites. So yes, I pointed out 2 are the exact same in case you weren't aware. You should take some time one day and test them. First hand experience is going to give you a better answer than anyone on a forum. Also some people have different opinions on certain spools/reels/ect and what they like you might not. For example the Steez 103 spool with the R+ inductor is considered pretty wild in a 1st gen Steez. To most that's not exactly preferred. To others it's not all that bad.

Well, considering two of them are exactly the same...

With as many spool options you have for a Tdz you can make it do anything you want to. Same goes for handles,ccc, and drag stars. You have endless options to make it look and perform any way possible. The reel is a classic and isn't going to die anytime soon. It's old for sure, but still better than any tatula you're going to buy. Paint doesn't hold up the best but that's more reason to get it painted and make it even more your own.

#20 CXX or #25 big game. Had no issues throwing 8" hudds on cxx.

Bought at least 7 reels from them. Great place to deal with.

Probably the best bang for the buck braid out right now. It's an 8 carrier and you get 330 yards of it for $20. I've been using it for about 2yrs now. I was an avid 832 fan before that. I still like 832 but for $10 less I can get something that's just as good. strong,supple,cheap, and quiet. I have it on 6 reells and oddly enough I have had no issues with it bleeding or fading out really bad.

#15 big game is .015 #12 big game is .014 #10 big game is .012 ------------------------- A smaller diameter line is going to cast further. You need to decide on a line that offers the properties you're looking for as far as strength to diameter. I think the #10 would be fine for what you want to use it for.

For #12 sniper it's not needed. The line is plenty manageable on it's own. I regularly fish #16 sniper without conditioner. I have used it in the past and it does help out. I'd spray 2-3 squirts on the full spool a few hours before fishing, or the night before if I knew I was going the next day.