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rippin-lips

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Everything posted by rippin-lips

  1. Jackall Firecracker is another great clacker model.
  2. Bend the hooks up, just like they suggest doing on other frogs.
  3. I have a 15 jdm 2510pe-h that’s like new I’d sell for $220 shipped. Bought new about 6 months ago and it was used maybe 10x. I took it in on a trade from my friend.
  4. You can add another shim above the upper driveshaft bearing to gain a little more pressure. That a long with a drag washer upgrade usually does the trick. I’ve done it on a few Diawa’s that had poor drag presssure factory.
  5. Ahh I see. It must of normally came with the reel when purchased new. I’ve never seen it for sale though. Cut the toothpick off a little bit. You aren’t going to brake the screw. No, Hawgtech knobs only fit their handles, unless they’ve changed something up about them.
  6. Just apply a good amount of pressure with your thumb. There’s not a designated tool that I’m aware of. I’ve swapped of few of these screws onto other reels I own. You could also cut a toothpick and see if it will fit the holes. Should be strong enough to break it loose if the other way doesn’t work. Or put some tape around a small precision screwdriver. SLP has some nice Daiwa non coated cork knobs.
  7. I use big game on a regular basis. Cxx is another good one too, BUT it’s thicker. Cxx 12 is big game 15. It’s easier to just pick up a 600yd spool if bg from Walmart for $6.
  8. It is countersunk and it’s tapered on both sides at an angle.
  9. When the handle is slid over the driveshaft, it sits about roughly 1mm less than flush. I count 3 - 3.5 threads once cut down. It’s not just cut flat and then tapped though. If you zoom in on the pic you can see where it was milled out also. In reality I don’t know if that would need to be done though. It’s not like that on a Steez driveshaft. Those are just flat and tapped.
  10. John, I sent it off to have done.
  11. A new rod needs a new reel,right? Orochi xx sbs and a T3 with some hedgehog parts. Happy Halloween
  12. These are all my buddy fishes are the newer zillion’s. He loves them. The ml is more towards the medium side. It’s one of his most used. They fish similar to the tatula rods. That’s what he upgraded from. I’ve fished a few of his when we go out. I’d say they’re about a 1/2 power heavier than rated.
  13. I have a Shimano Stradic FJ 3000 for sale for $75. @Nunz
  14. Known issue with Lexa’s in general. I had two 100’s a few years ago that would do it now and then.
  15. ^^^ that’s not true at all. I’ve had plenty of days where a 110 won’t get bit but a 90 will. Especially on the river for smallies. They seem to prefer the smaller size plopper.
  16. I use a 7’2 mh/f rated up to 1oz for the 90 and 110. So far I’ve not lost a fish yet. They really hammer that bait. Both sizes have their place also. I’ve fished a bone 110 without any action and stepped down to a bone 90 and then started getting bit. A lot more than once.
  17. If the bait has a split ring then I just use a palomar knot. If it doesn’t have a split ring then I use a Decoy egg snap in size 1-1.5-2. Most baits these days have split rings, so the only reason for a snap (not a snap swivel) is quick change outs of baits. If I had to pick just one size snap then I’d go with the #2 from Decoy.
  18. Only one way to find out... Call them and ask.
  19. It's done for a more smoothly operating drag and not a gain in overall drag pressure. The gain will be minimal, if any at all. Results will vary a little for different reels but don't approach it looking to add pressure. You might not achieve that.
  20. Yes, exactly. You already have to sell for 60% of what you paid anyhow. At least that's how it seems for me. It's a lot less painful when you sell a reel you bought for $250 for $200 verse selling a reel you paid $400 for $250-275.
  21. It's going to work the same in every reel. It's just an audible drag clicker. Some people like them and other (like myself) don't see the need in bass fishing. Oleg makes a good kit though.
  22. You can pick up a used but good condition 1st gen steez for $200-250 all day. I've never looked into the ex models. It wasn't enough of a change from the previous reel for me. At $350 you can grab a Steez limited 105. Then at $350 I might be forking out the other $50 for a used Steez sv tw 1016. I won't pay retail these days. Like you said, decisions...
  23. There's more differences than just spool capacity between the 100 and 103 1st gen steez. The spools themselves are different. The 103 spool is wild and takes a good thumb. It has the type r rotor and magforce v braking. The 103 also has an 80mm handle. The 100 has magforce z braking and a non r rotor. Much more user friendly. 100 and 103 come in a 6:3:1 ratio. The 100 also has a 7:1:1 ratio option. What quick change are you talking about on the ex? All the Steez reels have a slotted screw on the sideplate to open it up and access the spool. The ex is a second gen steez. Just a revamped 1st gen steez but there's nothing different internally. You do have the option of 7.9 gear ratio in the ex series. The xs models come with a 100mm handle. The gearbox is larger to house the larger gears on the 7.9 reel. The 1st gen is a great reel and for what you can buy one for now it's worth owning one.
  24. Okuma guide select 'A' series swimbait rod. 7'11 heavy is rated 1-6oz. This was the rod I used for baits up to an 8" hudd. It's about $125.

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