rippin-lips

I participated in a secret santa in another group. I received my package today. Can't be mad about that one bit.

I wouldn't not use what you have right now. However, when you need to buy new braid... Try some Daiwa J braid if you have a store that carries it. It's roughly the same price as power pro original but a much much better line. If you're considering pp super slick 8 then I'd just get suffix 832 instead. It's a better line than the ss8 and the price is the same. J braid performs equally as well as the 832 but costs less though. It's a win/win.

I run 7' leaders a lot of the time. I make the majority of mine about 4' 80% of the time. There's no issue running a long leader though. A long leader is nice in some situations. You can cut and re tie a bunch before needing a new leader.

The Albright special works great. I've used it for years now on different types and diameters of line. You add wraps for thinner lines like #10 braid to #6 fluoro. All my rods have small micro guides and I have no issues. The longest I make my leader is were the knot is a few inches in front of the line guide. Which is roughly 7' long. I mainly fish #30 braid and my leaders are generally #12-16 lines. I use 6-10 wraps. For the thinner lines as I mentioned above I've used up to 20 wraps. Too few and it won't hold.

Everything I own is lh but I can use both hands if need be. I started with a rh casting reel. Since 95% of the reels I'd buy come in both I don't have a reason to buy rh reels.

My jerkbait rod is also my topwater rod. I have it spooled with #13 defier armillo.

I use a #2 owner hyper wire split ring and a #4 hook. Usually the mustad kvd since they're quality but not too expensive.

They have no split rings or hooks on them. So add another $3-5 per bait depending on what brands you go with.

It's just about putting in time getting better with it. For me when pitching the brakes are down around 2-3 on my mag reels. Spool tension is always the same. Just enough to eliminate any side to side play. As mentioned your thumb plays a big part in controlling the spool.

First check to see if the knob is removable. Some are riveted on and if that's the case you'll have to buy the entire handle assembly. If it's held on by a screw 'I believe the saros is removable' then it's a standard size Shimano knob post. If so then you can buy a single knob from whatever company you like. Zpi basszone Livre Yumeya Avail

They're heavier than most people realize. Been saying that for some time now. http://imageshack.com/a/img924/6338/iU1LaN.jpg

SIMPLE GREEN will be fine. Lots of us use it all the time for reel maintenance. It's non toxic so you can just dump it when finished.

The top of the spool is almost right for how much line but once you fix the line lay issue it'll be too much. Fix that first and then see where you're at. You should have about 3-4mm from the edge of the spool lip. Like it is now at the top.

Some reels come with little shims to put under the spool to fix how the line spools up. Fluoro is very finicky. Yes, kvd l&l will help.

No, it's a joke. Look at the 17+1 bearing count. It's a cheap reel that attempts to bait a few people into buying it with its advertising claims.

It's like asking if you prefer an apple or an orange. People's locations will play a role on what they use to fish. There's no thick mats here so I have no need for a punching rod. I don't throw bigger cranks so I don't need a 7'6-7'11 cranking rod. 2 rods you can't go with are medium heavy casting rod and a spinning rod in a medium light - medium power. For me the other 2 are going to be a heavy and a medium. Actions aren't universal between companies so one companies xf could be another's fast. Same with rod powers. Spinning - ml or med/fast casting - medium/fast or mod fast casting - medium heavy/fast or xf casting - heavy/fast

Any of the reels that use a bolt instead of a nut are R tight. Steez j dream Zonda and some others. That reel is definitely on my list. Probably going to wait for the aluminum version since I have extra sv spools to put in it.

That's what I was doing at first until I had Ian work on them. It did help out but it's nowhere close to the spring mod when used side by side. At least in my hands and with my casting ability.

CRBB = corrosion resistant ball bearing The stock bearings in the reel will be fine. You can add a pair of zpi sic spool bearings. They're really nice but not required. You can add knob bearings without replacing the knobs. Up to you if it's worth it. The worm gear bearing upgrade is up to you. I do it but don't notice any improvement. To me a bearing is better than a plastic bushing though. Carbontex drag washers are a nice upgrade. Not really gaining any pressure but they are smoother. That reel might have carbon drag washers stock.

That was the one reel I seemed to have the most issues with. I don't know what spring he used. Just one of the many things he's figured out over the years. He is in Alabama. He goes by e_bassfisher on the other forums. I'm sure you can get his info with a quick google search.

The softer inductor spring is swapped out for a stiffer one. SV spools have been known to have the inductor get stuck in the out position basically making it a fixed inductor. Until you remove the sideplate and twist the inductor to get it to go back to normal. This fixes that issue and also changes the braking profile of the spool making it even better yet. On the spools I had the mod performed on it really woke them up when compared to a stock sv spool used in the same reel. The stock spool is pretty great already but it's definitely an improvement on the sv.

Send it to Ian Shields. He's hands down the best in the business for reel tuning. Getting the brake inductor tuned is a good start. I sent him 6 of my sv spools to be tuned and polished. Definitely a big improvement over stock.

I had both the 703 and 733 in the original champion series. Dobyns are overrated and the 3 power fishes like a medium in 'most'other rod series. I also had a 704 champion extreme. It was more versatile to me. The 703 was my dedicated wacky senko rod. The 733 I used for light spinnerbaits and squarebills.

I think it might phase out the current Steez SV 103 that's priced at $399. So it's a good possibility that it'll be coming in at that $400 price point.

It does not have an SV spool. It has a G1 magforce z spool. You can see it in the pics. The non sv spool and aluminum frame is what's going to bring the price down from $500 to whatever msrp is going to be.