rippin-lips

As mentioned get into the practice of closing it by hand.

I had the 703 and it was great for weightless plastics. Fishes more like a medium but I knew that already. I liked it for wacky senkos.

Mine were the same way but once mounted on a rod it's less noticeable.

#13 defier armillo for me.

Lots of good choices in that price range. Check out the sticky that roadwarrior posted.

It's not Daiwa so no worries from me.

No, I don't care for the looks of what's pictured above. That's why I wanted to ask.

Is this what you mean by build up a ramp? @S Hovanec

Use a good copoly line like yozuri hybrid #12 or p line cxx #10-12 and you'll be good to go for almost any situation. The only time it won't be a good choice is with heavy cover. Other than that it will work for anything else. No need to over complicate it.

For me a neutral balance on the lock nut with a reel mounted is what I want in the balance department.

I know it's not the pink personal order tdz. So I'll be waiting...

It doesn't sound like a high end reel is for you. As Hogsticker pointed out you're looking at it wrong. I'd stick with lower priced reels and just buy 3 of them.

Get a Daiwa SV103 Its an og zillion frame + sv spool Great reel that's overlooked a lot.

Cheng, of Legendary Custom Creations. His work is some of the best I've ever seen.

You sure can, and you also end up with something much nicer than any production rod.

I'm okay with how the butt end looks. Though very slim I can deal with it. The foregrip part is my main concern. It makes the rod look ugly to me. If the blanks weren't so nice I'd never buy a P3 rod solely on its looks haha. When I mention the XX series I was referring to the cork lock nut part of it. It would be great to be able to do that but I was also under the impression that the rear of the rod needed to be stripped but I now realize that's not the case. All changes would be done while leaving the rod intact.

This is a production Megabass rod. I just want to eliminate that gap. I'd be happy keeping the foregrip but more like the XX series where the locknut is cork. If there was a way to make that piece screw down that would be fine also.

New toy arrived today. Megabass Phase 3 Bearing Down

I want to eliminate this ugly gap between the lock nut and foregrip. I'd like to have the foregrip be the lock nut like the XX series '2nd pic' or ditch it all together. I know it's quite the task since the rod needs to be stripped. Neutral balance is on the front foregrip and that makes it a bit tip heavy to me. I'd like it to be very close to the lock nut. Any idea on cost?

Properly filled spool

Spinning okuma rtx 25s pflueger president Casting Daiwa Tatula 1st gen Shimano Caenan

You might wanna cross reference your information. The tatula type R 100 XS/XSL 8:1:1 has an ipt of 33.9"

#10 - spinning - 100% #20 - casting - 75% #30 - casting - 10% #50 - casting - 5% mono - casting - 10% I have different rods for different applications. My braid size is based off what I use that rod for. If I was to pick just 1 size it would be #30 though. It's plenty strong and casts well.

To me it wasn't an impressive rod. Not that I expected to be blown away but it was ok at best. I'd take a look at the Dobyns fury 735 or the parent company of the rod you have now. A 3/8 jig with a trailer comes in close to 3/4oz +\-